Star wars Amplifone no high voltage

Thanks for everyone's help so far. Our board is a version 2 and does not have a R18. That is one problem our board is different than anything we can find. We can not find a version 2 manual schematics

Yeah, the current amplifone manual is a mish mash of versions and incorrect data in several places. I think R18 is actually soldered on top of that capacitor on your board IIRC. (C9) I believe it should be 1 kohm.

I've been trying to make an addendum to the manual/FAQ but like all things, that takes time. The inconsistencies in the manual have led people to installing the wrong value parts on the deflection board in some places. Mostly resistors. I know I'm not contributing much to the thread but will jump in as soon as I feel qualified to provide some help.
 
"My friend has had a tv repair shop for 23 years"

I'm picturing Spicoli in Fast Times at Ridgemont High...
 

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I had a Z28 like that but mine was black and gold. 1980 version with the true air induction scoop. Wish i still had it.
 
I had a Z28 like that but mine was black and gold. 1980 version with the true air induction scoop. Wish i still had it.

1980 and 1981 Z28 both had the air induction hoods. got a few of those and they are the best of the second generation i feel.:D
 
When I fixed my 25"amp probably 10 years ago, I had a brown HV board like that I never got to work. I bought a different HV board, green I believe, and did all the same mods, moved the new flyback over, and it worked fine. I never figured it out but felt it was a focus wire thing.
 
We wont be able to look at it again until probably tuesday. Have to be out of town. Thanks
 
I'm guessing I should mention my HV was a black one...I think Penn Trans that I paid around $200 for. I see these white ones out there now for around $35 like in your picture I have no experience with.

I seem to have memory that the HV board that I never got working was one that was typically used in a different game...can't remember which. There were a few variations.
 
c/o post 9 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=3391908&postcount=9)

I asked if you had checked for high voltage at the anode with a probe. You didn't answer. here's the thing, if you have B+ and HTR (c/o post 8) then the primary drive to the FBT is working as the FBT generates these voltages. This leads me to a possible defective winding in the FBT. But you're telling me it's not open. So I have to ask again, is he shoving a high voltage probe under the anode and measuring for high voltage? If not, can I ask how you've deduced there is no high voltage?
 
He was testing at the anode with a probe. We pulled the flyback to do the test you said to do. We thought. we have done some things that made us get neck glow and B+ since the newest flyback was put in. Lets put the new old stock flyback that came with it back in. Guess what high voltage. The brand new flyback is bad. Now the problem is no deflection only a white dot in the middle of the screen. We have 37 volts coming out of bridge rectifier. All fuses are good. The LED on the deflection board is on. Now it time diagnose that now. Thanks again.
 
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