Star Wars Amplifone HV help

[SaminVA]

So far today's been a good day. My parts order's from Bob Roberts and Mouser both arrived. I started by replacing the caps and mounted the new metal heat sink 50 ohm resistors on the regulator heat sink. I also replaced the cap at C8 the Polyester Film Capacitor 630V .033uF because I had ordered a new one and I already had it off the board testing the old one so I figured I would just replace it. I had most of the other parts but I was almost certain they were all good so I left them alone. I did put another new BU406D on the board and a new Cinelabs flyback. I put the HV board back in the game, plugged it all back in, crossed my fingers and flipped the power switch and their was no spark, no smoke and no fire and the first thing I noticed was I had neck glow. I went around to the front of the game and I had a beautiful picture. I didn't have to adjust a thing, it was perfect. I coined up and played a few games and it was working great. I turned the game off and checked the HV board and everything was cool to the touch, even the BU406D and regulator heat sinks as well as the 50 ohm resisters, all cool to the touch. So I suppose this means the Wintron transformers are not bullet proof. Hope I have better luck with the Cinelabs flyback. I would like to thank everyone for all the help suggestions and ideas. Now all I need is one of Vector Labs SW/ESB kits.

 

[omegaman]

Great news!! glad you got it up and running without too much trouble.

 

[bakerhillpins]

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd post a follow up to it since I had basically the exact same issue as the OP: No HV and a low rail. However in my case it was the -24vdc supply that was incorrect (around -8v) and my 50 ohm resistor was getting a workout.

I had just rebuilt the entire HV board except the HVT... so I pulled out Q3 (BU406D) and it tested fine. With Q3 pulled the +- 24vdc rails were good but a bit high because they were unloaded. I used a scope and validated the 20 khz square wave all the way to the base of Q3 (BU406D).

So only thing left to do was replace the HVT... After replacing the HVT and reinstallingQ3, the board fired up and the monitor was working again!

 

[andrewb]

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd post a follow up to it since I had basically the exact same issue as the OP: No HV and a low rail. However in my case it was the -24vdc supply that was incorrect (around -8v) and my 50 ohm resistor was getting a workout.

I had just rebuilt the entire HV board except the HVT... so I pulled out Q3 (BU406D) and it tested fine. With Q3 pulled the +- 24vdc rails were good but a bit high because they were unloaded. I used a scope and validated the 20 khz square wave all the way to the base of Q3 (BU406D).

So only thing left to do was replace the HVT... After replacing the HVT and reinstallingQ3, the board fired up and the monitor was working again!

Was yours one of the red ones? Because the red ones are almost always dead ('read is dead', per the Amp FAQ).

There's a hypothesis (also in the FAQ) that there may be some red ones with really high or really low serials that might still be ok (as they were made with the wiring that wasn't damaged, see the FAQ for the full story). But I have yet to see one. So I basically always replace the flybacks if they are the red ones. (And if they are the later square Wintron/Penn-Tran ones, those are always ok.)

The repro flybacks from APAR are fine, however the ones from Arcadeshop should be avoided. Thread here:

Amplifone focus problem

I'm out of ideas and need some suggestions from those a little more knowledgeable in the area of focus adjustment. I've researched what I can to fix the issue with no luck. I am running a Atari green deflection board with an Atari green HV board. Both have been rebuilt. Deflection board...

forums.arcade-museum.com

 

[SaminVA]

Was yours one of the red ones? Because the red ones are almost always dead ('read is dead', per the Amp FAQ).

There's a hypothesis (also in the FAQ) that there may be some red ones with really high or really low serials that might still be ok (as they were made with the wiring that wasn't damaged, see the FAQ for the full story). But I have yet to see one. So I basically always replace the flybacks if they are the red ones. (And if they are the later square Wintron/Penn-Tran ones, those are always ok.)

The repro flybacks from APAR are fine, however the ones from Arcadeshop should be avoided. Thread here:

Amplifone focus problem

I'm out of ideas and need some suggestions from those a little more knowledgeable in the area of focus adjustment. I've researched what I can to fix the issue with no luck. I am running a Atari green deflection board with an Atari green HV board. Both have been rebuilt. Deflection board...

forums.arcade-museum.com

Wow, my how time fly's
Never say never, if you read this thread you will see my problem was a dead square Wintron/Penn-Tran transformers so I know of one that went bad with very little use. I still have it for some reason.

 

[andrewb]

Wow, my how time fly's
Never say never, if you read this thread you will see my problem was a dead square Wintron/Penn-Tran transformers so I know of one that went bad with very little use. I still have it for some reason.

Wow, no. I didn't read the thread. I'd never even heard of a Wintron going bad. I wonder what combination of things could have caused that.

Thanks for the info though.

 

[bakerhillpins]

Was yours one of the red ones? Because the red ones are almost always dead ('read is dead', per the Amp FAQ).

There's a hypothesis (also in the FAQ) that there may be some red ones with really high or really low serials that might still be ok (as they were made with the wiring that wasn't damaged, see the FAQ for the full story). But I have yet to see one. So I basically always replace the flybacks if they are the red ones. (And if they are the later square Wintron/Penn-Tran ones, those are always ok.)

Red OEM flyback. I recall that text in the FAQ and it saying something about a magical serial # of 17000...

The repro flybacks from APAR are fine, however the ones from Arcadeshop should be avoided. Thread here:

Amplifone focus problem

I'm out of ideas and need some suggestions from those a little more knowledgeable in the area of focus adjustment. I've researched what I can to fix the issue with no luck. I am running a Atari green deflection board with an Atari green HV board. Both have been rebuilt. Deflection board...

forums.arcade-museum.com

I have no idea where the HVT was sourced from... it came with the ebay purchase of the HV board.