omegaman
Active member
Could be the Wintron windings have shorted, seems like you have checked everything else, did you pull c8 and check it for short?
Star Wars Amplifone HV help
- Thread starter SaminVA
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SaminVA
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No I completely over looked C8. I could see if it was shorted it might keep the BU406D from working but I don't know if it would short the +24 volt regulator. I'll pull one leg loose and check it to be sure.
Thanks
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SaminVA
Well-known member
Ok C8 is not shorted so the Win must be Dead 
So I guess I'll palce an order with Bob Roberts and try a new flyback. I think he sells the one's from Cinelabs. I also need a few other parts but I have most of it already. Even gonna put new caps in. They have low hours on them but I did install them 10 years ago. We'll see what happens.
So I guess I'll palce an order with Bob Roberts and try a new flyback. I think he sells the one's from Cinelabs. I also need a few other parts but I have most of it already. Even gonna put new caps in. They have low hours on them but I did install them 10 years ago. We'll see what happens.
ArcRevival
Well-known member
I had one where C8 was the problem and kept blowing the regulator before I figured out what was the problem but you say you checked it. I have never seen the Red "mystery can" go bad, but if I remember right, some get damaged from the heat off the 50 ohm resistor and can cause problems. Might want to go back and read that in the FAQ.
Edit :replace the pots on the HV board too while you are at it, Bob sells them.
Edit :replace the pots on the HV board too while you are at it, Bob sells them.
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SaminVA
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Well I un soldered C8 and checked it again and it wasn't shorted. With my OHM meter it gave me no reading at all like it's open. Is this correct? I would have ordered one from Bob but I did not see one. I have read the FAQ forward and backward and almost know it by heart. Their's no heat damage to MC1 or T1. Also I have said it before I am getting a pulse on pin 3 of the 555 timer. Checked it with my logic probe.
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Ok C8 is not shorted so the Win must be Dead
So I guess I'll palce an order with Bob Roberts and try a new flyback. I think he sells the one's from Cinelabs. I also need a few other parts but I have most of it already. Even gonna put new caps in. They have low hours on them but I did install them 10 years ago. We'll see what happens.
If installing a bob roberts HVT, I do suggest checking the Heater voltage, mine was 12VAC the other day, double what it should be
omegaman
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Dezbaz, did you verify that 12VAC with a scope? you could always lower the winding count to drop the voltage if it's too high.
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I have not as yet.
My point is: Some HV Transformers are going to blow up heaters. Straight out of the box they are giving 12.2VAC
I was warning people who bought Bob R Flybacks to check theirs, before the tube is rendered useless
ArcRevival
Well-known member
Mouser sells a cap that works as a replacement. I am headed out the door to work but can get it for you later if you want one.
omegaman
Active member
I understand your caution but I am pretty sure you will see the correct volatge with a scope...most meters can't measure AC at a different frequency .....it's a little different than 60Hz
mcandrewsoun
Well-known member
Also, are you reading 12v with it connected? If its not connected, the voltage could be alot higher.
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SaminVA
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I would hope if their was a problem with this fly back someone would have found it before now. Yes the voltage could drop when under a load. I would hate to burn up my tube as they are not cheap and hard to find. I am sure if it was putting out to much voltage the tube neck would be very bright. I wonder how many of these have been installed and if any have had a problem?
As for the Cap at C8 I have ordered one from Mouser along with those 50 ohm resistors. I hope it's the correct one.Polyester Film Capacitors 630V .033uF 10% Tol MEB part number 1430-6333
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/1430-6333/?qs=t6UcUuFnyUPFSkA8ykzAcg==
Wile I was at it I did some searching and found someone that was looking for a replacement for the diode at CR3. Mine tests good but I figured I would order a few wile I was placing an order and if they were wrong maybe I could use them for something later. Here's the number , what do you think? Part number 526-NTE558 The NTE558 is a general purpose silicon rectifier in a DO41 type case designed for low high voltage
fast recovery applications.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NTE/NTE558/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsagl7BRmp5TRbi3B9/YpOoInw/4pUsapQ=
ArcRevival
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The cap isn't the same but should work. The diode is the same.
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I bought a HV kit from Andys Arcade. (No stock currently)
But I have a BOM for the kit, he lists CR3 as a Fast recovery rectifier BYV26G, I had to mount CR3 on the solder side as the new flyback would hit it otherwise.
Anyone interested in the full list?
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I just wanted to put it out there to see what others were getting from the Bob R Flyback
Also, I am an electrician, my test equip is good, but I will put a scope on it today to make sure
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HV Rebuild list (Thanks Andy's arcade)
Hey Sam,
At one point, I was convinced that I had no HV because I couldn't hear much sizzle on power on / off. It turned out that the 6.3VAC was absent from the neck. Once I tapped in from the coin door, I saw a picture for the first time. My transformer was not outputting the 6.3, so no matter how well everything else was done, I'd have never seen anything. My transformer was band new (Cinelabs), and it still wouldn't do the 6.3. In fact, two of them burned up at the 6.3, but that's a story for another thread.
I'd tap into those AC wires to make sure you've got glow at the neck. No matter what else you do first, you won't see anything on screen if you don't. You can always make this mod temporary and seal the wires back up if you get the Wintron issue worked out. Oh, and use a DMM to read the WHT HTR and brown solder points on the HV board while powered on. If you don't see the 6.3 there, it ain't got it.
Good luck!
At one point, I was convinced that I had no HV because I couldn't hear much sizzle on power on / off. It turned out that the 6.3VAC was absent from the neck. Once I tapped in from the coin door, I saw a picture for the first time. My transformer was not outputting the 6.3, so no matter how well everything else was done, I'd have never seen anything. My transformer was band new (Cinelabs), and it still wouldn't do the 6.3. In fact, two of them burned up at the 6.3, but that's a story for another thread.
I'd tap into those AC wires to make sure you've got glow at the neck. No matter what else you do first, you won't see anything on screen if you don't. You can always make this mod temporary and seal the wires back up if you get the Wintron issue worked out. Oh, and use a DMM to read the WHT HTR and brown solder points on the HV board while powered on. If you don't see the 6.3 there, it ain't got it.
Good luck!
Oh yeah, definitely don't assume that the Wintron is good just because it is newish. I have two Cinelabs transformers that have scorch marks on them for reasons I still don't understand. Fortunately, the one in the game still has the HV working.
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SaminVA
Well-known member
Hey Sam,
At one point, I was convinced that I had no HV because I couldn't hear much sizzle on power on / off. It turned out that the 6.3VAC was absent from the neck. Once I tapped in from the coin door, I saw a picture for the first time. My transformer was not outputting the 6.3, so no matter how well everything else was done, I'd have never seen anything. My transformer was band new (Cinelabs), and it still wouldn't do the 6.3. In fact, two of them burned up at the 6.3, but that's a story for another thread.
I'd tap into those AC wires to make sure you've got glow at the neck. No matter what else you do first, you won't see anything on screen if you don't. You can always make this mod temporary and seal the wires back up if you get the Wintron issue worked out. Oh, and use a DMM to read the WHT HTR and brown solder points on the HV board while powered on. If you don't see the 6.3 there, it ain't got it.
Good luck!
Yes, you are right, if I was only missing the 6.3 volts AC that would be my problem but in my case when I have removed the BU406D all my voltages on the HV board are correct but when I put a tested good and even a new BU406D back in the circuit I get a power drain that draws the +24 volt regulator down to 12 volts and last time it blew the regulator apart so I have come to the conclusion my Wintron is shorted. In your case you know you have HV from the transformer but you are missing the 6.3 volts. As I understand it the transformer gets it's 6.3 volts from the white wire that's wrapped around the metal core frame of the transformer. Looking at your picture, it would appear one end to this wire has a resistor soldered between it and the iron core. It looks like that resistor is toast so that might be your problem . Not sure what would have fried it.
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SaminVA
Well-known member
Wile I wait on the parts to rebuild my Amplifone HV board I still cant help but wonder what happened to it to start with and after I rebuild it what's going to keep it from happening again.
When the problem started the game had been working fine. I coined up a game and put the cross hairs on an easy game and pulled the trigger and the game died, blew the main fuse F1 a 7 amp slow blow. I replaced the fuse with a 6 amp slow blow and the game fired back up but was watch dogging so the monitor was cutting on and off as the led on the deflection board was also going on and off. Wile doing this it was drawing game vectors on the monitor and sounds too. I turned it off and on a couple times with no change. That's when I put it in storage where's it's been for the last 2 years. When I turned it on for the first time in 2 years the other day I first heard Hi voltage for a split second but it just quit and has been dead ever sense. At that time the game was dead, all LED's on the main board were lit. Only pulling all the chips and reseating them brought the board back to life and now the game plays blind.
So what do yall think. Could the nonworking board caused the monitor to blow the flyback by over driving something? Could it be something else or maybe just a bad wintron on just my bad luck?
When the problem started the game had been working fine. I coined up a game and put the cross hairs on an easy game and pulled the trigger and the game died, blew the main fuse F1 a 7 amp slow blow. I replaced the fuse with a 6 amp slow blow and the game fired back up but was watch dogging so the monitor was cutting on and off as the led on the deflection board was also going on and off. Wile doing this it was drawing game vectors on the monitor and sounds too. I turned it off and on a couple times with no change. That's when I put it in storage where's it's been for the last 2 years. When I turned it on for the first time in 2 years the other day I first heard Hi voltage for a split second but it just quit and has been dead ever sense. At that time the game was dead, all LED's on the main board were lit. Only pulling all the chips and reseating them brought the board back to life and now the game plays blind.
So what do yall think. Could the nonworking board caused the monitor to blow the flyback by over driving something? Could it be something else or maybe just a bad wintron on just my bad luck?
