Star Trek tech help

khabbi

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Star Trek Next Generation Tech Help- burn on harnesses

Well, got pics of a machine that claims to be fully working except the backbox lights don't light up (but the flashers flash at the end of the game) and this was a pic of some harnesses that appear to have been fried.. don't know if this was fixed and they re-used the burnt harness or what.

Wondering if anyone can help out with identifying what these two areas that appear burnt are responsible for, the game is priced right, but I want to know what the deal is with this before I even consider it.

stnng1.jpg


sttng2.jpg
 
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That right there is a very common problem.

J120 and J121 are the GI lighting connectors. They have overheated and burned up a bit.

Not to panic - all very fixable. The fixes are heavily documented at pinrepair.com (and elsewhere), and there is good video on This Old Pinball DVD series.

OK, you'll need to label and disconnect all of the connectors on that power driver board, remove the board from the backbox, de-solder the headers at J120 and J121 and replace with black high power headers, make sure the through-holes have continuity, and re-pin the old IDC connectors with new molex trifurcon .156 pins and connector housings, and put everything back together.

If you convert the GI to LEDs, this will never happen again.

RM
 
That right there is a very common problem.

J120 and J121 are the GI lighting connectors. They have overheated and burned up a bit.

Not to panic - all very fixable. The fixes are heavily documented at pinrepair.com (and elsewhere), and there is good video on This Old Pinball DVD series.

OK, you'll need to label and disconnect all of the connectors on that power driver board, remove the board from the backbox, de-solder the headers at J120 and J121 and replace with black high power headers, make sure the through-holes have continuity, and re-pin the old IDC connectors with new molex trifurcon .156 pins and connector housings, and put everything back together.

If you convert the GI to LEDs, this will never happen again.

RM

Thank you, Mr. Data !! :)
 
That right there is a very common problem.

J120 and J121 are the GI lighting connectors. They have overheated and burned up a bit.

Not to panic - all very fixable. The fixes are heavily documented at pinrepair.com (and elsewhere), and there is good video on This Old Pinball DVD series.

OK, you'll need to label and disconnect all of the connectors on that power driver board, remove the board from the backbox, de-solder the headers at J120 and J121 and replace with black high power headers, make sure the through-holes have continuity, and re-pin the old IDC connectors with new molex trifurcon .156 pins and connector housings, and put everything back together.

If you convert the GI to LEDs, this will never happen again.

RM


Thanks for the help!!
 
divertor coil problem

OK now do me, my sttng pin was a mess when I got it, now I have everything working except bottom divertor coil, top one is working.
It was melted on the inside when I got it and fried. I just replaced it but nothing. I dont see anything obvious and am waiting for my manual to get here. the game will play without the coil working but it looses track of a ball because of it and wont lauch a ball out of the guns. any ideas where to look?
 
Throw your STTNG into Test mode and select that specific solenoid - does it fire in test?

If not, and assuming you wired the replacement in correctly, why did it fry?

The associated driver transistor (and possibly pre-driver as well) may be bad.

If that is so, you will need to pull the driver board and test the transistor and pre-driver and replace them both.

Could also be a few other things, but that is high on probability list because something fried the old one.

Usually that is the driver transistor shorting out, or a wiring issue (short to something else under the playfield).

RussM
 
thanks, im reading some good info on pinrepair.com now about this very subject. it was fried when I got it so yes something went wrong.
I paid $1000 for it not working and it is in very good condition with excellent playfield. We got it all up and running in just a few hours by looking into the obvious and just bought a few cheap repair parts.
This divertor coil is the last hurdle, and the cig smoke smell--ick
 
There is a spray that you can get to get rid of the smoke smell. I cant think of what its called off hand but I think pinrepair sells it .If not someone here should know what im talking about but people swear it works great.
 
Khabbi Hamster did the same thing to mine yesterday redid all the connectors, and plugs and all working :) mine were all toasty as well, make sure use the better connectors and pins
 
coil fail

OK so I got the new coil and installed it, found a fried trace on the 8 driver pcb board and fixed it. powered it up and the new coil stuck on. so tansistors are bad in the 8 driver I figured because i also had a flasher bulb problem. Ordered the new aftermarket replacement board from MAD amus. for $28. Anything else you guys think I need to look into?
 
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