Star Trek Blowing fuses on the +5 line

SuperBee4406

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I am working on getting a Dedicated Star Trek running again, and I ran into my first problem. First I ordered a switching power supply adaptor board from Vector Labs.
I have the monitor out of the cab and I am trying to get the boardset somewhat working before I try powering on the G08. I hooked up the switching power supply and connected it to the boardset. I turn on the power and I hear music, yeah!!, then I reach over and coin it up, and low and behold, I hear spock and I hear the game start. I mess around with the buttons and play the game blind. But then after about five minutes, game dies. +5 is out on the power supply, fuse blown. I replace the fuse and the game lives again. I play again and pop another fuse and its very hot to the touch. I disconnected everything but the boardset and the fuse still gets super hot, but I cut the power before it blows. I did try just have the switcher hooked to the power adaptor and not the boardset and the fuse stayed cool, so its the boardset causing the fuse to blow.

Any Ideas?
 
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What is the game rated at as far as current on the +5v line? Either you have a short or the fuse is rated too low of an amp for what the board needs.
 
I am working on getting a Dedicated Star Trek running again, and I ran into my first problem. First I ordered a switching power supply adaptor board from Vector Labs.
I have the monitor out of the cab and I am trying to get the boardset somewhat working before I try powering on the G08. I hooked up the switching power supply and connected it to the boardset. I turn on the power and I hear music, yeah!!, then I reach over and coin it up, and low and behold, I hear spock and I hear the game start. I mess around with the buttons and play the game blind. But then after about five minutes, game dies. +5 is out on the power supply, fuse blown. I replace the fuse and the game lives again. I play again and pop another fuse and its very hot to the touch. I disconnected everything but the boardset and the fuse still gets super hot, but I cut the power before it blows. I did try just have the switcher hooked to the power adaptor and not the boardset and the fuse stayed cool, so its the boardset causing the fuse to blow.

Any Ideas?

Looking at the original G-80 power supply schematic the 5 volt line is rated at 4 Amps. If you are using a ATX type power supply it should have plenty of amps on the 5 volt line if their's nothing wrong with it then something may be over heating and causing a short. I know with no monitor connected the sound is the only way you know it's playing blind but you might try and remove the speech and sound board and if it still blows the fuse then you at least have eliminated those 2 boards plus you will have more room in the card cage so you can feel the chips on the CPU board and see if any are getting hot. You can swap the boards around in the cage and check each one. I suppose you could have a ROM or something on the ROM board over heating too. Was the original power supply dead too? It might be good but might also have a blown fuse.
 
Miswiring or a shorted chip/cap...

Pull a board at a time form the cage to see when the overloading/heat issue/blowing fuses stops.

Raymond
 
Looks like its the ROM board causing the fuse to heat up and pop. Running the boardset without the ROM board in place everything runs without the fuse blowing. Fuse still runs hot though. Is that normal. So I guess I will remove all the ROMs and start replacing them one at a time until I find the Bad chip.

My +5 line is only running at 4.5v right now. Is that the switcher adjusting it down because the lack on any real power draw?
 
Looks like its the ROM board causing the fuse to heat up and pop. Running the boardset without the ROM board in place everything runs without the fuse blowing. Fuse still runs hot though. Is that normal. So I guess I will remove all the ROMs and start replacing them one at a time until I find the Bad chip.

My +5 line is only running at 4.5v right now. Is that the switcher adjusting it down because the lack on any real power draw?

What fuse are you putting in there and what kind of power supply are you using?
 
Problem found.

The coin counter is causing the overheating and fuse popping. The counter must have a short in it somewhere. Pretty happy to have a stable game now.
 
Problem found.

The coin counter is causing the overheating and fuse popping. The counter must have a short in it somewhere. Pretty happy to have a stable game now.

Crimeny. I am literally having the same issue with my G80 Power. Game played fine until I coined up.

Have you found specifically where the short was from the coin counter?

Did you just disconnect it?

Also, where do you buy those fuses?
 
Crimeny. I am literally having the same issue with my G80 Power. Game played fine until I coined up.

Have you found specifically where the short was from the coin counter?

Did you just disconnect it?

Also, where do you buy those fuses?


I am using the vectorlabs switcher adaptor board to replace the original power supply.
I leave the coin counter disconnected.

If your running the original power supply, make sure its putting out correct voltage before hooking it up to the boardset. If you open it up, you'll see the LM723, 2n4403, and under the board is the TIP141. I replaced those parts since they were apart of the +5 voltage. Your -5 is the 7905 regulator, that might be bad too.

When the power supply is stable then hook it up to the boardset. Disconnect everything but the power and video to the monitor. Turn on the game, and look for issues. If nothing happens slowly start to hook stuff back up until you get a blown fuse, then you'll see where the short is. Of course turn the game off when you are hooking stuff back up.
 
Crimeny. I am literally having the same issue with my G80 Power. Game played fine until I coined up.

Have you found specifically where the short was from the coin counter?

Did you just disconnect it?

Also, where do you buy those fuses?

The fuses can be unplugged and replaced easily.
They are available from Mouser Electronics
Mouser Part #: 576-37013150000 for the +5 line

Also I recommend the coin counter be disconnected.

Mike
 
Disconnecting the coin counter and re-installing the G80 POWER from Vector labs with a new 3.15A 250V fuse solved my issue. Star Trek ran beautifully all night long. What an AWESOME THING.

This place rocks.
 
Interesting, what's up with the coin counters? Are they bad news?
 
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