just look at SaminVA schematic where p4 is. brown = +5 , vio=-5 black=gnd, etc.
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Technically I chose Pole Position but this keeps bugging me so I dove into this real quick first. "Real quick"...lol.
Man, Pole is another hell of a choice to get your feet wet on.
Man, Pole is another hell of a choice to get your feet wet on.
Only way you could have made it harder would have been getting a dead Cinematronics game.![]()
Yep...lol. But it seemed consistent. I've only seen 1 working board set for sale in months.
There's a reason for that.
I don't know what the ratio is between PP projects and actual working ones but it's probably fairly large.
Transformer sends out like 60v if I remember right but we lose it at the power supply. We're trying to figure out where it picks up chassis ground...
>>edit>>
this image isn't that great but I went ahead and tested mine.
I get @26vac on pin1&3 (12v line) @ 16vac on pin5&7 (5v line) and @ 26vac on pins8&10 audio amp line.
others feel free to correct my terminolgy etc.
the transformer puts out a bunch of different voltages but I believe you are referring to the AC IN on the power supply.
In the attached you can see which AC in lines go to the various Bridge Rectifiers for the various DC voltage supplies. I couldn't find a quick reference on what those voltages should be but assume @ 8-10vAC for +5 volt line and @ 15-18v for +12v line etc.
basically..i think.. measure pins 1&3 on ACinput for the AC voltage feeding +12/-12v, pins 5&7 for +/-5v, and 8&10 for audio power.
>>edit>>
this image isn't that great but I went ahead and tested mine.
I get @26vac on pin1&3 (12v line) @ 16vac on pin5&7 (5v line) and @ 26vac on pins8&10 audio amp line.
others feel free to correct my terminolgy etc.
Wow, what a piss poor design. Fuses AFTER the bridge rectifiers. GREAT IDEA SEGA!
To the OP, Fix that supply if you really want too. I wouldnt bother with it...
You can either Vector Labs --> ATX it or do as I suggested and run the +5 to an outboard switcher.
Or mess with the original supply. Just know that when it goes it will take other things with it.
I'm not arguing it's a bad design. I probably will replace it with other suggestions like you're saying. I'm not sure... But I do want to fix the original system first because it just feels right to do so. I'll probably blow the machine up along the way but let's hope not...
The slow blow fuse was an 8amp so I gotta fix that. It was built into the back side of the transformer chassis rather then installed somewhere visible. It appears the fuse is after the EMI filter but before the transformer so hopefully that doesn't matter.I have 3 Star Trek's all with original power supply's which I have not rebuilt and still are working. I really should rebuild them but the only thing I have done to them is replace the burnt pins and replaced the harness connectors with trifurcon pins. If the fuses in the power supply are all good then it may be ok and just not getting AC power. Their really should be a 5 amp slow blow fuse between the on/off switch and the EMI filter before it connects to the power transformer. If their's no AC going into the transformer then their can be no AC from the transformer to the AC input of the power supply. If you have AC going in then check your DC out voltages. You need to get a manual or down load one on line. Wile testing be sure to unplug the monitor and boards. When you have +5,-5,+12 and -12 then you can connect the boards and see if the game plays blind. Just take it one step at a time.
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The trick is to NOT plug the monitor in until you are 200% sure the boards are outputting a good signal.
I wasn't doing it my dad was... but I think it was 60v or so coming from measuring that burnt plug that goes into the power supply from the transformer. When it wasn't plugged into the power supply. Once it hits the power supply it dies.