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Centipede was the first machine I picked up more than 30 years ago. Still have it to this date.

Did your buddy get mad when you snatched it before he could?
 
Not saying it's the problem, but there's apparently corrosion on those two large resistors on the monitor neck board. Awesome score for $125!
 
newsheriffintown said:
Centipede was the first machine I picked up more than 30 years ago. Still have it to this date.

Did your buddy get mad when you snatched it before he could?
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I am deciding when to tell him. I see him almost every day. I was thinking to wait until the weekend to see if he went to look for the ad or not. And I'll say "I told you they usually sell the same day" as I nudged him to try and contact her ASAP. and then I'll say "good thing I contacted her" and bust out the images.
 
obitus1990 said:
Not saying it's the problem, but there's apparently corrosion on those two large resistors on the monitor neck board. Awesome score for $125!
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The back of the cabinet is mostly there, but it's in two pieces with a hole in it. I took off the bottom 3/4 of the cabinet, but the top piece (behind the monitor) I can't figure out what's holding it in, so that was the best image I could get at the moment.
 
I m going to go down to the "arcade" in town, a redemption game center, and ask when their tech usually comes here or if I can have his number and ask if he can look at it on the side.
 
bobbyb13 said:
I had sent Teresa a message a few weeks ago but I'm on the north shore of Oahu
:LOL:
Welcome to the group.
I'll help if I can.
Where you stay?
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If you messaged her weeks ago I wonder why it took so long to sell. On the mainland this would have been gone the same day.

I'm in Pahoa, but mainly work in Hilo. The good thing is someone was in Hilo yesterday with their pickup, so I was able to borrow it. All I did was buy two tarps. We already had a ratchet strap and a moving blanket.

I'm not totally sure what I want to do with the cabinet. I would like to see it working, however, I do need to find a solution for a Supergun, so I was considering throwing a joystick in there. I'd like to get Unico Candy Cab in the future (or a Supergun), waiting to see when people start receiving theirs. I almost bought a working Supergun on eBay for $400. I should have jumped on it. It sold. I have a few PCB's I'd love to be able to play is the end goal.

I
 
How to bring up an unknown-condition Atari game:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/427656/post-3798724

After you check the voltages per above, power the cabinet up with the self-test switch ALREADY flipped on before you apply power. Listen for RAM error beep codes. Download the manual and read it. It covers basic things about self-test that you should know.

Get a can of DeOxit D5S, and use it on all connectors in the cab. Here:


Any connection where two pieces of metal touch, anywhere in the cab, separate them, apply DeOxit, and reseat a couple of times. This includes the neck board. Just cleaning 40-year-old dirty connections fixes a lot of problems, and should be done for any new-to-you cabinet, especially one with problems. I spray a small amount in a jar, and paint it on the connectors with a small art paintbrush, so it doesn't make a mess. (You can spray it on stuff directly, but the can sprays a lot more than you need. However that's not a huge issue, as it won't hurt anything, and will dry up eventually.)

You probably also want to pick up a cap kit for that monitor, as most monitors need them.
 
andrewb said:
How to bring up an unknown-condition Atari game:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/427656/post-3798724

After you check the voltages per above, power the cabinet up with the self-test switch ALREADY flipped on before you apply power. Listen for RAM error beep codes. Download the manual and read it. It covers basic things about self-test that you should know.

Get a can of DeOxit D5S, and use it on all connectors in the cab. Here:


Any connection where two pieces of metal touch, anywhere in the cab, separate them, apply DeOxit, and reseat a couple of times. This includes the neck board. Just cleaning 40-year-old dirty connections fixes a lot of problems, and should be done for any new-to-you cabinet, especially one with problems. I spray a small amount in a jar, and paint it on the connectors with a small art paintbrush, so it doesn't make a mess. (You can spray it on stuff directly, but the can sprays a lot more than you need. However that's not a huge issue, as it won't hurt anything, and will dry up eventually.)

You probably also want to pick up a cap kit for that monitor, as most monitors need them.
Click to expand...
I have a full can of QD Electronic Cleaner if that's good also? But I can buy whatever is recommended long as I can get it here or shipped. The picture of the inside back of the monitor.. what part would you want me to spray? Or maybe circle it for me. I also have a bottle of Simple Green. I could clean the board. I'm going to pull it out for a good look but generally the cabinet inside is super clean. No dead animals or large dust bunnies.
 
andrewb said:
How to bring up an unknown-condition Atari game:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/427656/post-3798724

After you check the voltages per above, power the cabinet up with the self-test switch ALREADY flipped on before you apply power. Listen for RAM error beep codes. Download the manual and read it. It covers basic things about self-test that you should know.

Get a can of DeOxit D5S, and use it on all connectors in the cab. Here:


Any connection where two pieces of metal touch, anywhere in the cab, separate them, apply DeOxit, and reseat a couple of times. This includes the neck board. Just cleaning 40-year-old dirty connections fixes a lot of problems, and should be done for any new-to-you cabinet, especially one with problems. I spray a small amount in a jar, and paint it on the connectors with a small art paintbrush, so it doesn't make a mess. (You can spray it on stuff directly, but the can sprays a lot more than you need. However that's not a huge issue, as it won't hurt anything, and will dry up eventually.)

You probably also want to pick up a cap kit for that monitor, as most monitors need them.
Click to expand...

I'm going to buy a DMM if I don't do already have one in the garage. I read through that post of what to do first.
 
I recommend the UNI-T model UT58D or UT58E, as a decent 'cheap' DMM. I own six DMM's, and two of them are UNI-T's. Get one on Amazon or Ebay for around $50.

You want to avoid what I call 'Harbor Freight specials', which are DMM's under $20, that places like Harbor Freight often give away for free. But you also don't need to spend $200+ for a high-end Fluke meter. There are many good Chinese DMM's out there in the $30-50 range, which are perfectly fine for anything you're going to do in this hobby.

You want a DMM before even powering up a game for the first time. You always want to check voltages and connections for the power supply first, before even connecting the game board. It's a simple thing, but it can save you from damaging boards, and wasting a lot of time wondering why things don't work. Always assume the person before you had no clue, and never tested the voltages. (Because this is often the case.)

Any time you're inside a game, check the voltages. Any time you have things apart, check the voltages. Any time you move a cabinet, check the voltages. Connectors can loosen up, pop off in transit, and become dirty. Power supplies can fail, and drift out of tolerance over time.

If you're bringing a game up for the first time, or trying to solve any problem, a DMM should always be part of that process.

If you need help understanding how to use one, just search youtube. A good tutorial will explain the basics in 10 minutes.
 
So I had a multimeter in the garage. Fuses on power supply are fine. Next to I wanna test 5V on AR-II board. I see where SENSE is marked and I see where GND is.

My multimeter 20V is the closest I can find to 5V. So I set it to that? 200mV, 2000mV, 20V, 200V and 600V. Or does it matter which I set long as it's greater than 5v? I am guessing I set to 20V and then red on SENSE and black on GND.

EDIT: I'm at 5.12. Off to get small screwdriver.
 
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You want to set the DMM to the next highest voltage range setting above what you want to measure. So 20V in this case.

Also, be aware there is a +SENSE and -SENSE test point. You want the +SENSE one. You can also use the positive (+) side of the C1 cap on the AR, instead of +SENSE. Either will work.
 
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