SpyHunter... Potentiometers

Azurden

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Donor 4 years: 2013-2016
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This game has been quite the project and money pit... Got a SpyHunter that was not working... Did not have the power brick, or power supply. Sound issue as well... Harness was hacked to make it run a switching PS... Also the GO7 was also not working. Only saving grace is that the cab is near perfect...

Anyway, fast forward...

1: Replaced hacked harness.
2: Decided to go with the MCR PS Switcher Adapter as it was missing the brick and PS.
3: Board were sent out to CDJump for repair.
4: New Power Supply in it.
5: G07 Rebuilt and working. - (thanks to the KLOV guys who suggested looking at R908)

So... Booted the game up and the Weapons Van button works, the fire button working. And I get the shifter sound when I toss it into hi or low... What does not work is anything doing with the potentiometers. I have not tested the potentiometers yet, and will. Just can't believe neither one would be ok.

I put it in test mode and I do not get any reading when trying to set up the steering / gas.

Only thing I can think of, is I see in the MCR PS instructions is suggested a 4A PS and the one I had was a 2A. Not sure if that would cause this type of issue or not.

And ideas?
 
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I don't think it's a problem with the PSU. The game is booting so power is probably fine.
There's a board that does analog to digital conversion of the potentiometer voltages to digital signals that are read by the main pcb stack. It's called the "absolute position P.C." It has an ADC0804 ADC and LS244 buffer and CD4066 bilateral switch. Check that this board is present and wired up right. Check power and signals on input and output.
 
Ya, I do have the board. I sent them all out to be repaired and looked at. I will have to email CDJump again to see if he did check that board.
 
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the abs. pos sensor worked fine here. Check the connectors, if they're the idc variety, they're notorious for not making connection.
 
the abs. pos sensor worked fine here. Check the connectors, if they're the idc variety, they're notorious for not making connection.

Will do... Just was not sure if you had looked at those boards. will also check the pots. Thanks man...
 
If by chance the pots are bad, I sell the exact NOS pots :). Hope it's just the connectors though. I have similar problems on my SpyHunter with possible bad connectors. CDjump also serviced all my boards. Should be getting them sent back soon to test. Thanks CD.
 
If by chance the pots are bad, I sell the exact NOS pots :). Hope it's just the connectors though. I have similar problems on my SpyHunter with possible bad connectors. CDjump also serviced all my boards. Should be getting them sent back soon to test. Thanks CD.

You really sell 32 year old pots?
 
Will do... Just was not sure if you had looked at those boards. will also check the pots. Thanks man...

Start by putting your DMM on a pot and check the voltage you get as you slowly turn it. You should get a nice smooth change in the voltage as you turn the pot. If you don't then you probably have a pot issue.

If you do, then follow that voltage to the absolute position board and make sure it's being fed that exact same smoothly changing voltage. That'll tell you whether your problem is the pot or connectors up to that board.

Ignore the "user input" screen in the setup menu and for now, only use the gas or steering wheel pedal calibration screen -- that gives you the raw values being returned. Of course, if you're not seeing the voltage change at the pots, the game won't display anything sensible on the calibration screen either.

Also, post close up pictures of your pots with the wiring visible and let's make sure things are hooked up the right way.

P.S. Your gas pedal pot is very likely bad after all this time regardless of this but I wouldn't expect this behavior from it. I would expect "jumpy" behavior when you press the gas pedal pot down and/or a reduced range, particularly on the top. You almost certainly have a wiring or connector issue causing this because we know it's not the ABS position board or the main boardstack.
 
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Thanks for the info. I will be checking every connection...

So, the game is just acting strange. I always have the music, but at times when I turn it on I have no game sounds, sometimes I can hit the reset and it will bring up the game sounds. Also, at times I will get what sounds like the engine sounds as soon as you turn on the game without starting the game. The sound is louder than the normal volume and almost sounds like a chopper.

I pulled out the boards and checked all the chips to make sure they were seated. I also checked the inner-connect cables. One was not fully seated and I pushed that in. Tossed it back in the game and started it up. Now is is back doing what it was doing when I first put it in the cab. I will try to explain.

1: When you start the game the weapons van drops off the car. When you hit the right trigger the guns will fire (no left trigger, or round buttons), but you do not always have the gun sounds.
2: If you hit the gear shift you at times will hear the engine sounds.
3: Steering and Pedal not working.
4: Sometimes if you go to shift the car when it is on the right side of the road it will take off and just go from right to left and crash. Steering and pedal no response.

As far as the harness goes as you mentioned... I just got this off a fellow KLOVer and it was in really great shape. The original one was hacked for the power supply hook ups. I will check all these connects asap with a multi-meter to make sure I have good contacts on each pin as well. I also know that the switching PS MCR board instructions suggested that a better power supply be used on this board that had 4A. Mine is new, but the cheaper 2A version. Perhaps that is an issue? PCB does have the correct voltages at +5 -5 & 12v

I will check all the connectors to make sure they are all good, recheck voltages. If that does not get me anywhere I will buy the better 4A power supply and give it another go.

Also, I did test the steering pot and that is in full working order. Still need to test the pedal pot.




Start by putting your DMM on a pot and check the voltage you get as you slowly turn it. You should get a nice smooth change in the voltage as you turn the pot. If you don't then you probably have a pot issue.

If you do, then follow that voltage to the absolute position board and make sure it's being fed that exact same smoothly changing voltage. That'll tell you whether your problem is the pot or connectors up to that board.

Ignore the "user input" screen in the setup menu and for now, only use the gas or steering wheel pedal calibration screen -- that gives you the raw values being returned. Of course, if you're not seeing the voltage change at the pots, the game won't display anything sensible on the calibration screen either.

Also, post close up pictures of your pots with the wiring visible and let's make sure things are hooked up the right way.

P.S. Your gas pedal pot is very likely bad after all this time regardless of this but I wouldn't expect this behavior from it. I would expect "jumpy" behavior when you press the gas pedal pot down and/or a reduced range, particularly on the top. You almost certainly have a wiring or connector issue causing this because we know it's not the ABS position board or the main boardstack.
 
Thanks for the info. I will be checking every connection...

So, the game is just acting strange. I always have the music, but at times when I turn it on I have no game sounds, sometimes I can hit the reset and it will bring up the game sounds. Also, at times I will get what sounds like the engine sounds as soon as you turn on the game without starting the game. The sound is louder than the normal volume and almost sounds like a chopper.

I pulled out the boards and checked all the chips to make sure they were seated. I also checked the inner-connect cables. One was not fully seated and I pushed that in. Tossed it back in the game and started it up. Now is is back doing what it was doing when I first put it in the cab. I will try to explain.

1: When you start the game the weapons van drops off the car. When you hit the right trigger the guns will fire (no left trigger, or round buttons), but you do not always have the gun sounds.
2: If you hit the gear shift you at times will hear the engine sounds.
3: Steering and Pedal not working.
4: Sometimes if you go to shift the car when it is on the right side of the road it will take off and just go from right to left and crash. Steering and pedal no response.

As far as the harness goes as you mentioned... I just got this off a fellow KLOVer and it was in really great shape. The original one was hacked for the power supply hook ups. I will check all these connects asap with a multi-meter to make sure I have good contacts on each pin as well. I also know that the switching PS MCR board instructions suggested that a better power supply be used on this board that had 4A. Mine is new, but the cheaper 2A version. Perhaps that is an issue? PCB does have the correct voltages at +5 -5 & 12v

I will check all the connectors to make sure they are all good, recheck voltages. If that does not get me anywhere I will buy the better 4A power supply and give it another go.

Also, I did test the steering pot and that is in full working order. Still need to test the pedal pot.

My guess is that your harness/wiring/connectors are screwed up.

What PCB has the right voltages? The power PCB? Have you checked the voltages on the SSIO to make sure the right voltages are getting to it?

BTW, the car screaming from the right to the left just means the game is getting bogus readings from the pots so that's not a surprise.

What are you using for interconnect cables?
 
I've sold over 200, zero complaints. Explain how a never used NOS pot can go bad. It's as good as one made today, but with the advantage of using the exact specs used by the manufacturer :)

It boils down to what you prefer in the end, nothing physical.
 
I've sold over 200, zero complaints. Explain how a never used NOS pot can go bad. It's as good as one made today, but with the advantage of using the exact specs used by the manufacturer :)

It boils down to what you prefer in the end, nothing physical.

> Explain how a never used NOS pot can go bad.

Oxidation on the wiper.

> with the advantage of using the exact specs used by the manufacture

There's not too much involved in the specs though. You just need a linear pot with a certain shaft length. 1K is fine. 5K is fine. 10K is fine.

The only thing that you need to watch is the angle of measurement (around 270 degrees) and how far the shaft needs to turn (a bit more than that). That's not that hard to find.

One without stops like the original does make things a little easier but it's easy to find new inexpensive pots that work great.

How much do you want for your NOS ones?
 
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> Explain how a never used NOS pot can go bad.

Oxidation on the wiper.

> with the advantage of using the exact specs used by the manufacture

There's not too much involved in the specs though. You just need a linear pot with a certain shaft length. 1K is fine. 5K is fine. 10K is fine.

The only thing that you need to watch is the angle of measurement (around 270 degrees) and how far the shaft needs to turn (a bit more than that). That's not that hard to find.

One without stops like the original does make things a little easier but it's easy to find new inexpensive pots that work great.

How much do you want for your NOS ones?

Cheaper than most $20 each shipped.
 
Cheaper than most $20 each shipped.

That's not completely insane but there are plenty of $5 pots out there that will work just fine.

And I've been told that for $20 a pot, there are more modern designs that will hold up a lot better (and be more precise) but I've not bothered. My $5 pots work well and I'm REALLY picky about the results because I play competitively.

It's relatively easy to screw these up when you drill out the shaft for the gas pedal pot. I'd be pretty unhappy if I ruined a $20 pot or two but at $5 it's not a big deal.
 
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I wish you had someone local that you could swap things with, Azurden. If you were local I'd start swapping parts and I bet we'd nail down your issue pretty quickly.
 
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Cheaper than most $20 each shipped.

I'm remotely interested, but I just acquired SH into my collection. I am not sure of what sizes the pot's are at the pedal and steering wheel. There's only 2 pot's in the entire game for controls, right? I can't imagine any others...

I've gone through the test sequence briefly. I still need to check out the #9 pot calibration test.

 
Yeah, just 2 pots, steering wheel and gas pedal. Many times the original steering wheel pot is okay but rarely will you find an original gas pedal pot that is still working 100%.

The guy who posted the Youtube video doesn't realize that his gas pedal pot is borderline and should be replaced... You should get more than 1F back from it and 20h is the bare minimum. 22 or 23h is better.

Given a choice between 33 year NOS pots for $20 or new ones for $5, I'd choose the new ones. You just have to make sure it's linear, the shaft is long enough, and the angles are roughly correct. A few minutes on Mouser (or any other electronics place) and you're done...

Pretty sure cdjump told me at one point that he had a very cheap radio shack pot in his and it worked fine...
 
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