In May of 2009 Modessitt helped me grab a project Spy Hunter cab for a pretty fair price. When I got there the speakers had an awful pop to them with the insert quarter sound, the weapons van in range light, the initials screen, and so on. Yesterday I finally put this issue to rest with the addition of new 6" x 9" speakers from Bob Roberts. Thanks Bob! His new ones are 8 Ohm, which is fine for my switcher powered cab (I don't mind the hum, my Asteriods Deluxe has it too). My old ones tested good with my meter, but I guess they couldn't handle whatever the switcher was doing to the power. So if anyone has a similar issue, maybe this post will help! Oh, and wiring a 12V regulator between the switcher and power supply did no real good either.
The cab also had a pretty poorly done tube swap sometime during it's life. Modessitt helped me sort that out too by offering the simple suggestion to use refrigerator magnets on the sides of the frame to eliminate the magnetic interferance from the tube having the wrong rings installed. It's still not a perfect monitor, but 1000x better than when I started this project.
My Upgrades:
1. WG4900 capkit.
2. Both large suitcase power supply caps.
3. Lithium power board upgrade.
4. New inkjet sideart.
5. New power cord.
6. A JAMMA PCB holder (much better than the wood one Midway used).
7. Several new ground wires internally.
8. MCRIII board cap kit.
9. Sealed the marquee with triple thick.
10. Paint, bondo, etc.
Words of caution. The peter gunn background music comes only from the cheap squeak deluxe soundboard seperate from the MCRIII stack. The MCRIII stack generates the sound effects. Never buy untested cheap squeak deluxe boards. A member here let me try three of them and they were all dead and I am still stuck with a $36.65 dead cheap squeak
Game resetting? Meter the power at one of the empty EPROM sockets on the MCRIII stack. Get it up to 5.01V. And your game should be happy...unless you need the board stack to be capped or new interconnect cables.
Pedal pot not giving you turbo? Go into test mode and configure the driving pot as instructed. Now go behind your game and loosen the pot. Coin it up and get it to where the car just starts to roll forward. Tighten it down. Unless your pot is really worn, you should have a good range and turbo.
My working grail=worth the trouble!!!! All in all, I give my restored cab a B to B+. It was dropped sometime during it's life, but was shored up with nails near the bottom corners. No big deal, I painted over them and they look fine. This cab is really too heavy and massive to try anything further, and it is really solid.
The cab also had a pretty poorly done tube swap sometime during it's life. Modessitt helped me sort that out too by offering the simple suggestion to use refrigerator magnets on the sides of the frame to eliminate the magnetic interferance from the tube having the wrong rings installed. It's still not a perfect monitor, but 1000x better than when I started this project.
My Upgrades:
1. WG4900 capkit.
2. Both large suitcase power supply caps.
3. Lithium power board upgrade.
4. New inkjet sideart.
5. New power cord.
6. A JAMMA PCB holder (much better than the wood one Midway used).
7. Several new ground wires internally.
8. MCRIII board cap kit.
9. Sealed the marquee with triple thick.
10. Paint, bondo, etc.
Words of caution. The peter gunn background music comes only from the cheap squeak deluxe soundboard seperate from the MCRIII stack. The MCRIII stack generates the sound effects. Never buy untested cheap squeak deluxe boards. A member here let me try three of them and they were all dead and I am still stuck with a $36.65 dead cheap squeak
Game resetting? Meter the power at one of the empty EPROM sockets on the MCRIII stack. Get it up to 5.01V. And your game should be happy...unless you need the board stack to be capped or new interconnect cables.
Pedal pot not giving you turbo? Go into test mode and configure the driving pot as instructed. Now go behind your game and loosen the pot. Coin it up and get it to where the car just starts to roll forward. Tighten it down. Unless your pot is really worn, you should have a good range and turbo.
My working grail=worth the trouble!!!! All in all, I give my restored cab a B to B+. It was dropped sometime during it's life, but was shored up with nails near the bottom corners. No big deal, I painted over them and they look fine. This cab is really too heavy and massive to try anything further, and it is really solid.


