Spy Hunter popping fuses

SuperBee4406

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My Spy Hunter is popping one of the 5A fuses. There are two 5A fuses on the power block, the second one in the line of fuses, keeps popping as soon as the power is turned. I can't find what that fuses is for. Does anybody know?
 
the schematic I am looking at does not show any 5 amp fuses.
there are 2 amp, 4 amp slow blows, 61/4 slow blows
so I am not sure which ones you are talking about
looks like most of them go to the power supply or lights
 
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On the power brick there are two fuses, locations F3 and F4. They are marked 5A SB. And thats what I put in there, and when you turn on the game they get really, really hot and if you play a game F4 will blow. When I got the game, and checked the fuses there were 7A SB fuses in there.

I have a Tron cabinet. Can I take the MCR power board, and power brick out of there for testing in Spy Hunter? I am trying to chase down a nasty loud hum also.
 
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On rev C of the schematic the fuse values were increased, it shows F4 has a 6-1/4 slow blow. Probably why it had a 7 amp in it when you got it. I am not sure on the power supply, but I am under the impression they are swappable.
 
I have a Tron cabinet. Can I take the MCR power board, and power brick out of there for testing in Spy Hunter? I am trying to chase down a nasty loud hum also.

The power supply board is the same.
The power bricks are functionally the same, but good luck getting the one out of your Tron (take a peek inside that Tron, and you'll see what I mean).

Edward
 
I am trying to chase down a nasty loud hum also.

Good luck with that. You might see if the large caps on the power supply need replacing. I've had several SH's and some hum while others do not. I've played the swap game and still had all sorts of issues. The best I could do was a quiet hum. Try unplugging the marquee light and see if that helps.
 
Don't bother swapping the power brick or whatever it would be called in a tron out it's just too much of a hassle. The linear power boards are the same but be aware that spy hunters can be very picky so the board that works great in your tron may not seem to work in your spy hunter even if all voltages measure correct. SH's often need a bit more than the 5v and 12v they say they should get. A loud hum could be a grounding issue or could even be a person's interpretation of how loud the game should be. SH's tend to have a bit more hum than other games do simply by design. Usually a loud annoying hum on a SH means bad caps on the power brick. This could also cause fuses to blow but I would also suggest you look into shorts, particularly in the coin door area as a possible reason the fuse is blowing. One culprit that is often overlooked is the slam switch. It mounts to the lock on the coin door and if it becomes loose can swing enough where it will contact the mechs and often cause a short.
 
Don't bother swapping the power brick or whatever it would be called in a tron out it's just too much of a hassle. The linear power boards are the same but be aware that spy hunters can be very picky so the board that works great in your tron may not seem to work in your spy hunter even if all voltages measure correct. SH's often need a bit more than the 5v and 12v they say they should get. A loud hum could be a grounding issue or could even be a person's interpretation of how loud the game should be. SH's tend to have a bit more hum than other games do simply by design. Usually a loud annoying hum on a SH means bad caps on the power brick. This could also cause fuses to blow but I would also suggest you look into shorts, particularly in the coin door area as a possible reason the fuse is blowing. One culprit that is often overlooked is the slam switch. It mounts to the lock on the coin door and if it becomes loose can swing enough where it will contact the mechs and often cause a short.

I was up late last night working on the game and here is what I found.

First the hum can be so loud that sometimes it vibrates the whole game, it does fade over time with the game on.

Second, with a 5A SB fuse in the game, the game will not blow the fuse in attrach mode, but when you start to play a game the fuse blows. F3 and F4 fuse get really, really hot and I even watch one of the fuse elements twist and turn, as if it wants to blow. I had two 7A fuse in there when I bought the game, so I put them back in. No more blowing fuses, but they both get really, really hot still.
 
Made some progress.

I pulled the power board out of my Tron and put it in the Spy Hunter. Powered it on and no Hum heard. Its was pretty quiet, with some very faint static in the background, which could only be heard when there was no sound. So the loud hum is in the Power board that came with the machine. Question is now, should I go switcher or rebuild the original board.
 
no switcher in a spy hunter!!!!!!!!!! They have been known to cause a hum in spy hunter for some unkown reason
 
Exactly.

Putting a switcher in it will pretty much guarantee hum.

A good linear power board will yield a game with almost no hum at all.
 
I had a hum on my Tron that I fixed by replacing the three electrolytic caps on the power supply board along with the two big daddys in the bottom of the cab. Since you already changed the big ones, maybe it could be fixed with those other three. Bob's kit will have them, of course, if you decide to go that way.
 
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