Spy Hunter Monitor Issue or Connection?

72Demon

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I have two upright Spy Hunters I purchased non-working. Originally one had a PCB issue which showed a K and R screen when powered up, the other SH is in ruff shape and had no PCB. I purchased a working PCB from CDJump here on KLOV. Now it appears to be working except I have alot of static on the screen and noise in the audio. I am not sure if I messed up a connection somewhere or if something is going on with the monitor now. I checked all the connections I messed with and can not find anything. I put the working PCB in the other SH and got a picture that looks fine, so not a PCB issue. Prior to me, changing out the PCB, I did swap around power supplies and the other boards to test them. So there is a good chance I caused this issue. I do not recall ever messing with the monitor when I tested the other boards, except for where it plugs into the PCB.

When it had the original non-working PCB, it did not have the video problem or the audio noise. I hope someone on KLOV has seen this problem before and can tell me what is causing it. The monitor is a Bestech WHD 94V-0, chasis with a Panasonic Tube. I tried moving around the syncs but it did not help. Thank you for anyone who can help.
 

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Have you ever gotten Spy Hunter to work with this chassis before? Spy Hunter and other MCR games are notoriously finicky with monitors, particularly newer ones.

Describe the noise in the audio...
 
Thanks for the reply demogo, this is the monitor I received it with. Prior to me messing with it, - it did have a clear picture and no audio static/loud hum. The audio problem does appear to coincide wih the static on the screen. It was with another PCB that would only show Ks and Rs. You could hear the Peter Gun theme before too. During the time that I reseated everything, swapped around the P/S, it started this problem. It has its P/S that it came with again. I had tried a MCR P/S since it is using the adapter w/ a PC P/S. I thought that could of been the issue, it did not help.

Now that I have a working PCB, I need to figure this new issue out, which I may of created! It appears to be a refurbished cabinet. Everything looks good. The second SH cabinet is well used, and resets the working PCB anytime you make a input thru any control/button/pedal - also does not have any audio except a loud hum.

I am trying to focus on the nice cabinet first. But maybe having both can help further troubleshoot them.
 
Here are pictures of the inside, both of the nicer cabinet. Maybe you will spot something. The connector for the speakers on the right, I pulled since the audio noise is too much that early in the AM when I took the pics. Normally that is connected.
 

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Monitor

Bestech monitors are pure sh$t.. You'll end up spending way to much time trying to fight with the sync, humm, noise, static, etc.. Find another monitor as its prolly never going to work well with an MCR game. I've got (2) of those crappy monitors sitting on a shelf.. Brand new and the flybacks humm loudly.
 
You said you've got the original linear power board hooked up again?

It's not in the pictures you provided... there's a weird metallic looking thing in the middle that i'm guessing is your MCR switcher adapter...

You know it's not the boards because they work fine in the other SH. Have you checked the voltages coming out of your power supply and on the PCBs?
 
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Okay, I listened to local413, and pulled the Bestech chassis out of the good cabinet and installed the k4900? (I could not find any markings on the chassis, but it resembles the K4951 in my Sinistar) from the bad cabinet. I wanted to use the tube in the good cabinet, because it looks new, with no burn in. Powered up and I have a picture without the horible audio problem or the major static on the screen. It does still have a hum though that seems to be affected by the coin door lights or something. If I pull the connector to the coin door, the hum is quieter.

Demogo, it does have the adapter to pc p/s installed still. I have read that this could cause the hum also. I will try a MCR P/S to see if it helps the hum.

Now that I have the k4900 installed though, the picture is too long. I need to adjust the horizontal width, but can not locate a adjustment on the monitor for that. As you can see in the pics, the picture is stretched too far up and down, so you can not see your credits or your score. Does anyone know how to adjust that on this chassis? The pictures also show the K4900 installed.

I have also found a new problem with the controls not being able to move the car left, but will post that in another section. I have a picture of that too, it is the one with the white car driving in the trees on the right of the screen.
 

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More pics of the chassis if needed to help identify for horizontal adjustment.
 

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So you know that the yoke on your tube has to be paired with a certain chassis, right? You can't just freely swap between chassises. So out of curiosity, what chassis was originally paired with that tube because that's the one you need to run it with.

And yes, running SH with a switcher is a recipe for hummmm in your audio.

I believe Bob Roberts has a page which shows various chassis on it that should help you ID yours. Have you checked there already?

If not, someone should chime in soon enough that recognizes that chassis.
 
Demogo,

It had a BESTECH WHD 94V-0 in it with a Panasonic A48KXR064X00 23 tube. Everything looks pretty new, so I did not think the monitor/chassis would of been an issue. Local413 said they are no good, so since I have another SH, I swapped out the chassis. I did not swap the tubes yet, because I was hoping that I could get it to work with this tube since it looks new with no burn in. I am hoping I can adjust the Horizontal coil to get it better, and I would be happy. Not sure if that will help.

It does appear to be a K4900 on Bobs site, does not look exact but really close.

Do you have any ideas about the "can not turn left problem"?
 
Demogo,

It had a BESTECH WHD 94V-0 in it with a Panasonic A48KXR064X00 23 tube. Everything looks pretty new, so I did not think the monitor/chassis would of been an issue. Local413 said they are no good, so since I have another SH, I swapped out the chassis. I did not swap the tubes yet, because I was hoping that I could get it to work with this tube since it looks new with no burn in. I am hoping I can adjust the Horizontal coil to get it better, and I would be happy. Not sure if that will help.

It does appear to be a K4900 on Bobs site, does not look exact but really close.

Do you have any ideas about the "can not turn left problem"?

OK, so you've simply swapped chassis w/o changing anything else. As far as I know you're in uncharted territory here because I have no idea if the yokes are compatible.

I would suggest sending a PM to a monitor guru like Ken Layton with a link to this thread and invite him to chime in here regarding yoke compatibility before changing anything on the chassis. If they're not compatible then you're wasting your time and may end up damaging things.

Do you have a link to your thread on the steering issue?
 
There is horizontal width coil you can adjust.

...and yes, get rid of the switcher... My game hummed like a MO-FO until I swapped in the original linear supply.

If you want to try something, try to remove all the 12v lamps... your humming may drop to an acceptable level until you get an original supply.
 
you will find the answers(and parts) to most of your problems on bob roberts web page(Width coil is circled). Its the thing surrounded by copper wire.. Make sure you have a plastic tool to move the ferrite bead. Sometimes they can get stuck in place due to heat. So it can be an easy thing to break..



mon2.jpg


go to the bottom of the page, you will find tons of stuff you will want to know..
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/
 
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I was able to adjust the Horizontal Width Coil, & I was able to get it adjusted pretty close. I still need to see if I can get it fine tuned. The coil started to get hot & I ran out of time. But it does look a lot better.
 
I still recommend that you ask a monitor guru like Ken Layton if that yoke is compatible.

Otherwise you're potentially slapping band-aids on a patient that's bleeding out.
 
grounds

Does your cabinet have the typical large yellow ground straps running from each PCB to the PS? When I was going through my Spy Hunter and had some hum I took off all the ground straps and buffed off the rust and then re-connected them. It made quite a difference.

After that perhaps think about recapping your boards.
 
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