Spy hunter is hear - and questions (help too!)

jonathan1138

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Hi. As posted, Just got a Spy hunter Cockpit. effen sweet.

Have been working on it since Friday - full teardown, and fixing a few issues. Fixed most of them (buttons not working) -

But - next issue up - Weapons van / all weapons lights dont come on. Tried the following to troubleshoot:

R119 on the Lamp driver "looks good" - havent tested it. Looks like it was recently replaced.
Tried new bulbs. Checked all fuses. All good there.
Game has an arcade shop switcher. I am going out now to test voltages to make sure nothing changed.

Earlier, during a weapons test, lights came on Briefly and dimly - but then died.

Also, the coin door lights work - are they tied to the lamp driver board?

Hopefully its just a voltage issue - Anything else i can check? Also, how would i test a light bayonet for voltage? Red lead where / black lead where?

Thanks KLOV. This is one of my last tasks before moving this beast against the wall and taking pics.
 
Ok - amidst all the other Spy hunter threads going on at once (game is greta, but clearly a problem child).

Checked voltages. Powerswitcher was running at 4.95 - adjusted to 5.10, but still, no lights.

Any help is appreciated to get this beauty fully running (at least i have sound).

Thanks.
 
Ok - doing some more research. Lamp driver relies on 12 volts - checked that, getting around 12.60 - is that ok?

The powerswitcher adjusts all at once, setting my 5v to 5.10 and leaves 12 around 12.60.

Tomorrow, i will check Lamp Driver connector J2 to see if i am getting 12 volts there - any other suggestions? Thanks.
 
Hi. Checked pin 1 (when connected) and getting 12.60 volts. So i know the board is getting what it needs.

When i coin up the game, Pin 5 on J2 is supposed to "send" a message over to J1 with the 12 volts needed to light up the weapons van (right?). How can i check that?

I guess i am trying to find out if the problem is the board or the powersupply.

Any other troubleshooting advice is appreciated - i am still learning.....
 
I isolated it to the Lamp Driver board, since, J5 was not providing 12 volts when a light was needing power (i measured with coin up / Pin 1 on J2 had 12 volts, Pin 5 did not).

So i removed the Lamp Driver board. Testing the resistors according to the schematic, R119 is a 2.2 Ohm 1watt. My readout is (auto) ".221 M".

Not sure if thats ok or not. Seems like it (2.2).

Tested all the other transistors - the only one suspect is R12 - he is a 100k resistor, but reads 107 k - is that alright too? Its over 5 percent...

Again new to this and just learning, so any help is appreciated. If the resistors are ok, what else is left on the board? A couple of caps, Transistors (i think - the C series) and Chips.

Or should i just scrap the board and get a new one (from where?).
 
Ok - besides resistors, there are capacitors and 3 chips.

For the capacitors - here is how i tested them - (there are about 10 of them). Set to Ohms, with board out of game, i read random values - this is good i think? BUT C7 is reading 0.

Could it be that C7 is needing to be replaced?
 
Ok - besides resistors, there are capacitors and 3 chips.

For the capacitors - here is how i tested them - (there are about 10 of them). Set to Ohms, with board out of game, i read random values - this is good i think? BUT C7 is reading 0.

Could it be that C7 is needing to be replaced?

If your DMM doesn't measure capacatance, then checking for shorts is about all you can do.

Capacitors are best tested for shorts (using a DMM) out of circuit; i.e. with one or both legs desoldered. Unless you understand the circuit it's in, testing in-circuit may ready short when it's not (the "short" is another path in the circuit other than through the cap).

Testing capacatance is also best done out-of-circuit. The only cap measurement I know of that can be done reliably in-circuit is ESR, which requires a special meter.
 
Close this one out folks. Quarter arcade shipped me a lamp board and this one worked. Guess the old one is dead. Not sure where - i will hold onto it and try and fix it someday (yeah, right).
 
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