Spy Hunter controls restoration - anyone?

the roll pins that hold the main steering shaft on tent to walk out and cut a slot in the plastic cover on most spy hunters. Mine had this, and I sourced one after much looking. To fix this, I tapped the 4 holes on the casted steering wheel hub and used 4 set screws to lock it to the shaft. This made for a tight no-jiggle fit and also no worries of the roll pin coming out and slashing my hard to find plastic cover...
 
I took rags and balled all the switches up for masking and just let them hang freely during painting. I painted the weapons van button first and then rolled that into a ball of rags for masking as well when I painted the red.
 
I'm a little surprised you painted rather than powdered it. Powder has less chance of a nick or scratch. After all the work of tearing it down, I sure wouldn't want to do it again - ever.
 
I didn't think disassembly was that hard. I can't recall if I had to get creative with the roll pins or not. I may have had to use something like a screw of the proper diameter to help punch it out if my pin punch was too short or something.

Hub doesn't need to be powder coated IMO, plus when I got my handles coated, the coater couldn't get a good match. So I opted for paint and am totally satisfied. Great match from the rattle can and it doesn't really get wear so I'm not worried about it.
 
paint

I used black epoxy paint for the handles since it is more durable.
The center console bit I used a 'Chinese Red' that was a close match to the original.
 
For paint I used a bright Kyrlon red color, I'll have to look at the can for the exact name, but it was almost a perfect match to the original pinkish red. For the grips, I used textured satin black. Same kinda paint used to spray metal lawn furniture. Came out very nice. Followed original texture and added enough to look new. As usual, satin black for the van button bezel and any other black metal bits on the cab. I honestly almost never use full gloss black on arcade stuff. way too shiny.
 
With mine, I was able to punch out all the roll pins but one. Looks like the hole was mis-drilled in that, it was cockeyed and the roll pin could not be punched through but required being pulled out. Still working on this.
No success at drilling the pin out, I believe they're hardened steel.
 
so are you saying they used a short pin and only one side is through holes since the holes are off and therefore having to be extracted instead of pushed through? If not, maybe some pics to clarify, not sure I'm on track. Yeah, possibly hardened. Not like a hardened washer, but spring steel.

If it is part way through and seems impossible to move, you could maybe run a rod down the steering shaft and pound it till it's bent like a 'J', then pound it from the outside till it's loose and let it drop out the shaft. Bending it from the inside will allow it to drop out instead of having to be pushed all the way through.

These role pins are avail. and cheap.
 
so are you saying they used a short pin and only one side is through holes since the holes are off and therefore having to be extracted instead of pushed through?

Exactly. It's like he got half way and realized he was drilling it cockeyed. The opposite hole is aligned way above the rod it's supposed to retain with pin So he stopped drilling on one side and then began a new hole from the other side. So you can't see daylight between them. I ended up taking it to a firm that will use a carbide drill to drill it out, then tap it and insert a long set screw. $30 bucks.
My last ditch effort was a slide hammer in an attempt to pull it out, but the screw kept popping out instead. No way you can get a screw to bite into that roll pin.

These role pins are avail. and cheap.

Really? I was planning on just reusing the old, but new ones would be ok, especially after using a punch to hammer them out. I imagine that can flatten a portion of the pins. Not even sure of the dimension of the roll pins or where to buy them.
 
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