vicjw66
New member
Radio shack has apparently stopped stocking electronic parts in L.A area.
Spy Hunter Behavior
- Thread starter FrizzleFried
- Start date
OP
OP
vicjw66
New member
O.K. This just seems like a possible ground problem to me. What happens if you attach a seperate ground line directly from lamp board ground to earth ground?(Directly to your switcher ground(which I assume has 3 prong plug connected to switcher ground). I might even connect analog ground directly as well as a last resort.
OP
OP
Unfortunately... this is yet another fail. I get about the same static as I got before (which is very little)... until I stick a 12v lamp either in the coin door or via the lamp driver board. It pops when the lamp is lit (even just one) and the static quadruples or more...
...basically the very same thing that happens WITHOUT the 7812 in line.
Oh, but I now have to re-power on from time to time as I get a jumbled mess online similar to when I remove the 12v line completely... but recycling the power gets the screen up and running.
>sigh<
Last edited:
OP
OP
I'm not going to even bother... why? Because even with the lamp board completely out of the equation and only the 12v lamp in the coin door running... I get the very same result. Hell.. if I remove the lamp driver board and the sound board and only have the amp board running... POP when the lamp gets lit and, of course, the static increases by a very very noticeable amount.
OP
OP
Well... for a bit of good news on this project... I installed a couple of FREE PLAY ROM's today and they work great. At the same time I figured I'd install the NVRAM I had sitting here waiting to be installed at the same time. I'm not 100% sure if the NVRAM works yet, I've not gone out to check to see if my high score I just made was saved yet... but I have no reason to believe it won't be.
Now for something a little scary... I was a little dismayed to see that the sound board was the board exposed and I'd have to bust open the "stack" to get to the CPU board. Oh well I figured... first I pull the back board off which was the video board... first i pull the back metal tray off, then disconnect the interconnect between the CPU board and Video boards and pull the video board off... set it down and I see movement out of the corner of my eye... what was that...I look quickly and see a BLACK FREAKIN' WIDOW SPIDER scurrying across the exposed metal tray! That bastard was between the video board and the metal tray!!
I grabbed the closest terry cloth towel and smashed that bastard. Needless to say, I was a little more careful poking around the rest of the stack... no more spiders I am happy to report.
Anyway, the FREE PLAY works awesome and I am guessing the NVRAM will save the HS without issue.
It's good to have a couple things work out right well on this bastage for a change.
Now for something a little scary... I was a little dismayed to see that the sound board was the board exposed and I'd have to bust open the "stack" to get to the CPU board. Oh well I figured... first I pull the back board off which was the video board... first i pull the back metal tray off, then disconnect the interconnect between the CPU board and Video boards and pull the video board off... set it down and I see movement out of the corner of my eye... what was that...I look quickly and see a BLACK FREAKIN' WIDOW SPIDER scurrying across the exposed metal tray! That bastard was between the video board and the metal tray!!
I grabbed the closest terry cloth towel and smashed that bastard. Needless to say, I was a little more careful poking around the rest of the stack... no more spiders I am happy to report.
Anyway, the FREE PLAY works awesome and I am guessing the NVRAM will save the HS without issue.
It's good to have a couple things work out right well on this bastage for a change.
OP
OP
I spoke too soon...
Freeplay is working perfectly... but the NVRAM is NOT working. I power down and lose high scores...
FREAKIN' DAMNIT! Why is this thing such a pain in the ass?
Any ideas?
Freeplay is working perfectly... but the NVRAM is NOT working. I power down and lose high scores...
FREAKIN' DAMNIT! Why is this thing such a pain in the ass?
Any ideas?
tec9
Active member
Check my post on your other thread....you might have it in the wrong location on the CPU. Make sure it is in 5g.
-Mark
-Mark
OP
OP
5G? Scucci says to put it in B2 in the other thread?! Is that for TRON only?
Did I screw anything up by sticking it in B2?
Did I screw anything up by sticking it in B2?
tron = mcr2 spy hunter = mcr 3. Not the same cpu. Purely coincidence they both have a ram at that position. You haven't hurt anything by putting the ram in place of the other ram on the board, you just didn't put it in the right spot. It should be a 6116lp your replacing at 5g.
OP
OP
I've learned my lesson... all searches on here about MCR and NVRAM comes up with the same B2 spot... hopefully this post will prevent others from making the same mistake I made.
Spy Hunter requires the NVRAM to be in the G5 location... I just removed the NVRAM from B2, re-inserted the chip that was at that location, removed G5 and stuck the NVRAM in that location and it's now saving high scores.
Bravo!!
Spy Hunter requires the NVRAM to be in the G5 location... I just removed the NVRAM from B2, re-inserted the chip that was at that location, removed G5 and stuck the NVRAM in that location and it's now saving high scores.
Bravo!!
Cool, congrats!
Now you're down to 1 weird problem (hum and noise with the lights) and 1 'as expected' problem (replacing the gas pedal pot).
Hopefully the linear power board will fix the first item and the 2nd item isn't too bad to fix.
So did you do anything with the +5v line when you added the NVRAM? Just curious.
Now you're down to 1 weird problem (hum and noise with the lights) and 1 'as expected' problem (replacing the gas pedal pot).
Hopefully the linear power board will fix the first item and the 2nd item isn't too bad to fix.
So did you do anything with the +5v line when you added the NVRAM? Just curious.
OP
OP
I did not... if I start getting weird issues I'll do the +5 mod...
...and I have 2 new pots coming from Mouser...
...and I have 2 new pots coming from Mouser...
vicjw66
New member
I've used both linear and switcher in my spyhunter and never got the same pop as frizzle(but a small pop with both before game sound went out). Still think grounding is your problem or caused your problem. There is supposed to be grounding to the coin door. Frizz, do you have 3 prongs and its connected to your switcher ground?
OP
OP
I am not sure of what you mean with this question. Yes I have a 3 prong plug (it had a broken ground pin but I replaced it)... and my switcher has both AC lines and the FG (field ground) lines run.
vicjw66
New member
O.k> Wasn't sure. But I had some ground wires missing. Replaced them but the damage was already done. This game just seems to have so many wiring issues. I know some of my sound board voltages are low but can't figure out what component(s) are the cause of my losing game sounds. My high scores save with bob roberts kit on linear power supply and peter gunn works. Frizz, you seem to have opposite problems. What are we missing?
OP
OP
I am very very very pleased to report that I received an original Spy Hunter power supply today... I plugged that bad boy in and... well... IT WORKS GREAT! No 12v crazy ass popping or distortion... there is a VERY VERY VERY slight "bump" noise when the 12v lights turn on and off, but it absolutely not noticeable unless the sound is off and you stick your ear in the cab and even then it's very subtle.
W00t!
I can now move on to the last couple things I need to do to this cab. I have side art coming... I need to remove the old nasty ass side art... remove the sticky mess that I am sure will be left over... fill a small hole on one side... fill the button hole on the front where the prior owner (or before him) had installed a freeplay button... and the last "mechanical" thing I need to do is find (or make) a 25 cent insert bracket for the coin door...
...if anyone has an extra 25c insert bracket, please let me know what you'd want for it shipped to Nampa ID 83686. It's essentially a piece of metal with a square cut out and a couple of screw holes.
Looks like this:
W00t!
I can now move on to the last couple things I need to do to this cab. I have side art coming... I need to remove the old nasty ass side art... remove the sticky mess that I am sure will be left over... fill a small hole on one side... fill the button hole on the front where the prior owner (or before him) had installed a freeplay button... and the last "mechanical" thing I need to do is find (or make) a 25 cent insert bracket for the coin door...
...if anyone has an extra 25c insert bracket, please let me know what you'd want for it shipped to Nampa ID 83686. It's essentially a piece of metal with a square cut out and a couple of screw holes.
Looks like this:
OP
OP
Free is always the best price in my book!
Thanks!
PM sent (well...as soon as I type this)...
Congrats on getting that solved Frizz!
