Spy Hunter - A couple of questions

MRCMRC

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Hi everybody.

I have a Spy Hunter boardset. I only have the three "main" boards. Should it be enough to boot the boardset? Or maybe the boardset needs a reset signal or nees to check something on the auxiliary boards? I'm waiting to the parts for building the interconnect cables, then I will be able to test the game.

Another question is: can I use a "sounds good" board with the proper romset, or I need a cheap squeak board?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi again.

I'm trying to boot up the three boardset with a standard switching power supply (Hantarex US150) and I'm having problems (well, I still don't know if the boarset is working or not).

I've wired VBATT to +5, and I reset the board manually, but it doesn't boot. I can't get a voltage on the board above 4.7 - 4.8 volts (this boarset seems to drain too much current for my power supply). I haven't wired neither the 12 volt and the -5 volt lines, as I presumed they're used on the sound circuits, nor the +5 SENSE and +5 UNREG lines.

Maybe some of those lines I haven't wired are necessary? Is the voltage I'm getting not enough to boot up this game?

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Hi again.

I'm trying to boot up the three boardset with a standard switching power supply (Hantarex US150) and I'm having problems (well, I still don't know if the boarset is working or not).

I've wired VBATT to +5, and I reset the board manually, but it doesn't boot. I can't get a voltage on the board above 4.7 - 4.8 volts (this boarset seems to drain too much current for my power supply). I haven't wired neither the 12 volt and the -5 volt lines, as I presumed they're used on the sound circuits, nor the +5 SENSE and +5 UNREG lines.

Maybe some of those lines I haven't wired are necessary? Is the voltage I'm getting not enough to boot up this game?

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
Have you done anything with the reset line? It should be tied to +5.
 
I'm almost positive you can't do much with just the main pcbs.. Only luck I've had is swapping in known working boards and trying to weed out the bad one.
 
Wow, here we go!!!!

Grounding pin 20 on power connector (CPU board) make the voltage rise to 4.9 on every of the three boards, and setting off dip switch 10 on sound board (video freeze) caused the game come to life.

Now it seems that I have a color problem, but this is a good start point.

Thanks for your help, I'll come back if I make some advances fixing the game.
 
Dude, go with a linear power supply board. They aren't THAT hard to find and they work a lot better than switchers in a Spy Hunter.
 
PAL DUMP of Cheap Squeak Deluxe?

I've compared CSD and SG schematics. They're nearly the same board. I've made a couple of modifications on Sounds Good to become a Cheap Squeak Deluxe, but when pluged to my Spy Hunter boardset it doesn't start the test (the LED is off).

Maybe someone can dump the PAL on his Cheap Squeak Deluxe and share it with me? It would be great. At this point, I believe that the PAL on both boards are different.

Thanks in advance.
 
I can tell you for a fact.....the PALs are different. The Sounds Good board also has ROM jumpers for different ROMs. Make sure it's jumpered correctly.

Edward
 
Thanks for the confirmation.

Yes, I have made all the modifications to convert the SG into a CSD, including the correct jumpering. But since the PAL is different, it doesn't work on my Spy Hunter.

If the PAL isn't protected, and somebody could read it, then I maybe could success on convertion one board onto the other.
 
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