Speaking of playfield restorations

Deadly

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So falling short of tearing the playfield out and sending it off or replacing it all together, has anyone done repair work and used rattle can clearcoat or something similiar before?
I realize that sounds ghetto fabulous as hell but just curious as I personally have a couple wear spots that I would love to touch up but falling short of overlaying mylar the paint would be destroyed in no time flat.

So adding paint touch ups .... air brush?

Any ghetto fabulous tips anyone would care to share?
 
hey deadly, the best way is to strip it, clean it, make an overlay and airbrush the areas of need then clearcoat it with automotive clear!!! will turn out beautiful! clear is 60 a gallon an up but will do several pf,s


dc
 
hey deadly, the best way is to strip it, clean it, make an overlay and airbrush the areas of need then clearcoat it with automotive clear!!! will turn out beautiful! clear is 60 a gallon an up but will do several pf,s


dc

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm "fishing" to see if anyones come up with ghetto way to eliminate playfield removal. I've been chewing on my lip for about 2 months now deciding if I should deal with the table as is or pony up for a new playfield from IPB.
 
You asked for ghetto,so here is my latest experiment.I have a jungle lord playfield in not so good condition.Having never touched up a playfield before i figured this one was beat enough to experiment on.I left the playfield in the game but pulled it forward and shimmed it level.Removed all the parts that can be removed from the top,painted is more the correct term than touch up.Then for the clearcoat.I used this minwax polyurethane on my coffee and end tables in the early 90's. 2 marriages,3 teenagers,2 young ones and dam near 20 years later it still looks good.So i figured this is some durable stuff,and self leveling to boot.So i brushed on 3 heavy coats,one a day.It has been over a month and i play the piss out of the game as it is my favorite and so far no issues.I figure as long as i keep it waxed it will be fine.It really brought out my colors and leveled off the inserts and other imperfections in the field.I am really happy with it,and time will tell if i am an idiot or not lol.
 
Here is the Shaggy super glue method.

1. clean the PF with a wax remover (naptha).
2. touch up the chip with water based acrylic paint (optional)
3. get some water-thin SUPER GLUE.
4. get the playfield laying flat. if installed in the game,
i just pull the playfield all the way up and forward
(love those williams slide rails!)
5. apply the super glue to the chip. if you apply too much,
use the edge of a paper towel to absorb the excess.
6. let it dry. super glue should dry very fast. within
a few minutes. Don't worry if you over shot the
super glue a bit.
7. apply more another super glue coat, if needed.
8. using 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper, and a block of wood,
block sand the super glue level with the surrounding finish.
9. rub out with Novus2.

Works very well.
 
Me likey the ghetto methods keep em comin!

I have wear in front of the flippers - I also have two major dents/gouges from a ball eject area.
Luckily the colors will be super easy to match but I'm concerned about filling in the two gouges (what to use to fill those) and how to protect the touch up areas. Maybe a full mylar would be the best choice at this point? Hmmm
 
Thanks for the suggestion but I'm "fishing" to see if anyones come up with ghetto way to eliminate playfield removal. I've been chewing on my lip for about 2 months now deciding if I should deal with the table as is or pony up for a new playfield from IPB.

No matter what you do you're going to want to remove the playfield from the machine. It's not difficult.

I've done touch up with sharpies and acrylic paint and cleared with rattle cans of varathane. It turns out okay but you get out of it what you put in. That's about as ghetto as I would want to get. Even with this method you're looking at a lot of time. The only problem I've had is with the varathane yellowing if put on too thick.
 
For the rattle can varathane method, how do you smooth out the edges? Can you just sand them so that they blend into the original finish well enough?
 
Me likey the ghetto methods keep em comin!

I have wear in front of the flippers - I also have two major dents/gouges from a ball eject area.
Luckily the colors will be super easy to match but I'm concerned about filling in the two gouges (what to use to fill those) and how to protect the touch up areas. Maybe a full mylar would be the best choice at this point? Hmmm

Dolphin Glaze- http://www.tptools.com/p/2919,186_U-Pol-Dolphin-Glazing-Putty.html

I will have to dig up pics of my 1812 Restore, but it was nothing short of insane.... This stuff works great.....
 
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