Space Shuttle: constantly blowing fuse F2 for solenoids

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Space Shuttle: constantly blowing fuse F2 for solenoids

The F2 fuse 2.5 amp SB 250v keeps blowing.

The game plays for a little while then the fuse goes...i played it for about 30 minutes....turned it off...jumped back on it the next day and fuse was dead....it has done this twice already.

Should i replace the solenoids or is there something i should look for under the playfield?
 
The F2 fuse 2.5 amp SB 250v keeps blowing.

The game plays for a little while then the fuse goes...i played it for about 30 minutes....turned it off...jumped back on it the next day and fuse was dead....it has done this twice already.

Should i replace the solenoids or is there something i should look for under the playfield?

You will rarely if ever have to replace a coil. Does it kill all the solenoids? I'd check for a short somewhere under the playfield as something is causing the fuse to blow.
 
Check resistance across all of your coils and make sure they're all not a dead short or anything close to it. Same goes with the diodes across the coils. Don't forget the one on the coin door - it counts.
 
Check resistance across all of your coils and make sure they're all not a dead short or anything close to it. Same goes with the diodes across the coils. Don't forget the one on the coin door - it counts.

You know..i did replace one diode that the leg sheard off...it read at .57...i replaced it one that reads .50 because it was all i had at the moment...i wonder if that may be the issue.
 
You know..i did replace one diode that the leg sheard off...it read at .57...i replaced it one that reads .50 because it was all i had at the moment...i wonder if that may be the issue.

only if you installed it in reverse.
 
I did not install it in reverse...and i will double check that...BUT...now that i think of it, thendiode i did replace was on a leaf switch of the right flipper...i need to take a pic of where its at..it was 3 weeks back when i did it. I was looking on the schematic for the game to see exactly what rating of diode should be there but i am having trouble locating it on the schematic. I know one end solders to the leaf switch...i cant remember what the other end solders to.

I will photograph it tonight after work and report back.
 
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Pics of the diode i replaced with a spare on right flipper...what rating should it be? Is this even a diode that would effect a solenoid?
 

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Pics of the diode i replaced with a spareon right flipper...what rating should it be? Is this even a diode that would effect a solenoid?


In general... you can replace a failed diode with a larger, higher rated one without any real trouble as far as pinball SOLENOIDS go. You might find you run into some interesting problems when you put way bigger diodes than needed into a logic circuit or something though, heh. That's likely not what's causing your fuse to blow. I'd definitely triple-check that it's not backwards, and keep in mind you can't measure the actual resistance of a diode (or capacitor!) when it's IN the circuit. You have to cut off at least one side, and test it both directions. If you're getting tone both ways...it's definitely shorted closed.

If you used an UNDER rated diode (likely a different type of diode or smaller in physical size) but it's *close*, that might be causing what you're describing as it wouldn't be blocking EM field collapse fully, and there might be JUUUUST enough extra getting through to wear down the fuse rather quickly, or degrading the integrity of the diode..... and if the diodes are failing as "shorted closed" and just letting everything through, a fuse dies if you're lucky. If the fuse is overrated or faulty and allows too much through, there's gonna be a lot more of a mess to clean up.

Check that diode in specific, and check the diodes on every coil. Make sure they're all intact and soldered securely. Look around the area of the coil tabs and see if there's anything that might be shaking and touching the tabs during gameplay and causing an intermittent short.

Can't tell you how much time I spent tracking down ONE backwards diode on my lamp matrix when I did my Shuttle PF swap. And I didn't even find it...my wife did. :|

*Edit* Oh, and if you do find it was backwards....or any of them are...don't reuse it. Just toss it and put a new one in, correctly. :p
 
I would likely suspect a short somewhere or failed components on the board. I'd check for shorts first under the PF then work the wiring for that switch in the schematic back to the board and check for any failed components there. It's hard to tell in the pic, but I'm 99% sure that's your lane change switch, so it shouldn't really be impacting the solenoids blowing regardless of the diode, it would likely just fry (in an extreme case) a resistor or transistor on the board.

Again, I can't really tell in the pictures, but that EOS switch looks black and the switch looks very corroded - is that coloring or burn/charring? I'd give the EOS switch a good look too for a short and check that against the board as well as it could be toast and the likely culprit if it is as bad as it looks in the pics...
 
I would likely suspect a short somewhere or failed components on the board. I'd check for shorts first under the PF then work the wiring for that switch in the schematic back to the board and check for any failed components there. It's hard to tell in the pic, but I'm 99% sure that's your lane change switch, so it shouldn't really be impacting the solenoids blowing regardless of the diode, it would likely just fry (in an extreme case) a resistor or transistor on the board.

Again, I can't really tell in the pictures, but that EOS switch looks black and the switch looks very corroded - is that coloring or burn/charring? I'd give the EOS switch a good look too for a short and check that against the board as well as it could be toast and the likely culprit if it is as bad as it looks in the pics...

Its activated by the flipper...the flipper mech activates it so it has the be part of the eos switch correct?

And could u point out to where this switch is on the schematic? I'd like to see the part number with description.

Also the game does play for a little while then the fuse fuse eventually blows...i dont want to give the impression the fuse blows on start up.

And to a previous post question, yes the diode is installed correctly and i tested it before i installed it. I pulled it off a G07 parts board.
 
Its activated by the flipper...the flipper mech activates it so it has the be part of the eos switch correct?

And could u point out to where this switch is on the schematic? I'd like to see the part number with description.

Also the game does play for a little while then the fuse fuse eventually blows...i dont want to give the impression the fuse blows on start up.

And to a previous post question, yes the diode is installed correctly and i tested it before i installed it. I pulled it off a G07 parts board.

Well there are two switches. The first one is your EOS switch and that will kill the high voltage when it opens. If that switch is shorted or bad, the high voltage can go back to the board and fry things, or possibly be blowing your fuse. The second switch is just your lane change switch and when the flipper mech closes that it just activates the lane change, that is the switch the diode is on in your picture. I would check that EOS switch for a short first and if that black color is burn and corrosion i would change it immediately.
 
That right slingshot still an issue...it goes nots when activated and sometimes when its not...and now it it back to freezing up when extended out.

It is not the solenoid (its new, as is the sleeve and diode)
The leaf switches are gapped properly so its not the leaf switches being too closely gapped.
It is not the transistor (q77 i believe it is)....i have swapped the transistor out with other known working ones and still same issue.
I have tested the smaller transistor under q77 and the resistors in that bank of components also and all seem to be good. I did not pull them and test...i may do that next but assuming they are all good does anyone have any suggestions on what to look into next?

Short 10 second vid of the issue

https://youtu.be/mPgXcPNEecg
 
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That right slingshot still an issue...it goes nots when activated and sometimes when its not...and now it it back to freezing up when extended out.

It is not the solenoid (its new, as is the sleeve and diode)
It is not the transistor (q77 i believe it is)....i have swapped the transistor out with other known working ones and still same issue.
I have tested the smaller transistor under q77 and the resistors in that bank of components also and all seem to be good. I did not pull them and test...i may do that next but assuming they are all good does anyone have any suggestions on what to look into next?

Short 10 second vid of the issue

https://youtu.be/mPgXcPNEecg

Your switches are likely gapped too close, check those first and open them up a bit.
 
I'll check my SS later but have you checked the EOS switch to ensure it's tripping?

Like I said, I forget the setup so this may not be relevant.

The cap on it is a 22uf 25volt....it registers at 12.1uf...im going to replce the caps on left and right.
 
Buy a logic probe off ebay for 20 bucks and trace that line all the way from the coil back to the pre-drive transistor.

But I'm guessing you have a short to the GI.
 
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