Space Invaders slow monitor waves...

adamzero

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I'm guessing the answer to my problem is a re-cap of the chassis, but I'll check with you guys just to make sure.

I have a Space Invaders that has these slow side to side rolling waves on the monitor. As they move, the characters widen noticeably and just in front & behind of the wave the characters are compressed. It only seems to happen on one half of the monitor, this swelling and contracting.
 
I'm guessing the answer to my problem is a re-cap of the chassis, but I'll check with you guys just to make sure.

I have a Space Invaders that has these slow side to side rolling waves on the monitor. As they move, the characters widen noticeably and just in front & behind of the wave the characters are compressed. It only seems to happen on one half of the monitor, this swelling and contracting.

I had this on mine just last week. Replaced the large capacitor on the chassis and it fixed the issue. If you find any of these large capacitors, let me know, they are hard to find.
 
Blown-
Just to be sure, you mean this big black one, right? 50v 4700uf?
DSCN0635.jpg
 
Blown-
Just to be sure, you mean this big black one, right? 50v 4700uf?
DSCN0635.jpg

Yours looks different than mine. Mine is a WG chassis. If i remember right its the large upright cap that is really 3 in 1.. Sorry I don't have schematics and I'm out of town right now to look at it.
 
From what I can see in that picture.....it looks as if you've got some Asian monitor.....probably Japanese...maybe a Toei (but it's difficult to say with that picture).

Edward
 
From what I can see in that picture.....it looks as if you've got some Asian monitor.....probably Japanese...maybe a Toei (but it's difficult to say with that picture).

Edward

Oh man, yeah you'd think I'd remember to mention this huh? Yep, this is one of the OG japanese SI's... Dark blue Taito with a joystick. I'll have to try to locate the monitor info when I get home...
 
Oh man, yeah you'd think I'd remember to mention this huh? Yep, this is one of the OG japanese SI's... Dark blue Taito with a joystick. I'll have to try to locate the monitor info when I get home...

Well that just changes everything :) So disregard what I mentioned above, but maybe a similar issue with the large capacitor anyways. FYI: The large WG capacitor is no where to be found for purchase, so what I had to do is replace it with 4 other smaller capacitors, and seems to be working so far.
 

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From what I can see in that picture.....it looks as if you've got some Asian monitor.....probably Japanese...maybe a Toei (but it's difficult to say with that picture).

Edward

Ok, it definitely looks like japanese labeling on it.. but I'm unable to see a name/manufacturer on it. What kinds of parts/pics would help ID it?

Blownin said:
Well that just changes everything So disregard what I mentioned above, but maybe a similar issue with the large capacitor anyways. FYI: The large WG capacitor is no where to be found for purchase, so what I had to do is replace it with 4 other smaller capacitors, and seems to be working so far.

Can you explain the 4 capacitor solution? I'm not going to be able to do it myself... I'm probably going to have to have someone else (who better knows how to handle it) do it, but I'll need a little guidance/explanation for them (whoever "them" turns out to be!).
 
Ok, it definitely looks like japanese labeling on it.. but I'm unable to see a name/manufacturer on it. What kinds of parts/pics would help ID it?



Can you explain the 4 capacitor solution? I'm not going to be able to do it myself... I'm probably going to have to have someone else (who better knows how to handle it) do it, but I'll need a little guidance/explanation for them (whoever "them" turns out to be!).

Basically, a clear picture of the chassis/monitor circuit board. Removed from the tube is ideal.....so everything can be seen in it's entirety.

4 capacitor solution doesn't apply to you. Most USA built black & white monitors used some form of multi-capacitors......basically, multiple capacitors in one (big) housing (cap). In the case of the common Wells-Gardner black & white monitor, it was 4 caps in one package. From outwards appearances, it looks like one big cap......but if you look at it's "legs".....it'll have a bunch of "feet"....to accommodate all the caps inside. I've never seen multi-caps on Japanese monitors, but you never know. On multi-caps.....all the values are printed/stamped on the outside of the cap housing.

Edward
 
Here's some shots of the chassis and whatnot... I was hoping to avoid pulling the tube at this point... hopefully these shed some light on the matter.

DSCN0641.jpg


DSCN0642-1.jpg


DSCN0643.jpg


DSCN0644.jpg


DSCN0645.jpg



Any ideas, Ed?
 
Sorry, it's not familiar to me......but that big black cap looks to be a single package cap. It looks to be 4700uf at 50volts. All of the other caps look original/old. Before troubleshooting any deeper, you really should do a full cap out.

Edward
 
Sorry, it's not familiar to me......but that big black cap looks to be a single package cap. It looks to be 4700uf at 50volts. All of the other caps look original/old. Before troubleshooting any deeper, you really should do a full cap out.

Edward

I'm still on the hunt for one of these big black caps, but all I'm finding are smaller "snap in" style ones. I've seen automotive stereo systems (tricked out ones) that utilize similar sized (physical) caps, but.. I can't find anything that matches the numbers.

Is there a work-around for things like this? Is there another cap that will work? The guy who had the game prior to me did a re-cap on the monitor stuff, apparently.
 
I'm still on the hunt for one of these big black caps, but all I'm finding are smaller "snap in" style ones. I've seen automotive stereo systems (tricked out ones) that utilize similar sized (physical) caps, but.. I can't find anything that matches the numbers.

Is there a work-around for things like this? Is there another cap that will work? The guy who had the game prior to me did a re-cap on the monitor stuff, apparently.

A "snap in" cap would be fine for this.....just zip tie it off good, and make sure the solder connection at the legs are good.

It's difficult to tell from the pictures, but those caps (look) original/old. The black one behind the V SIZE pot looks swollen. Is the guy you got this from a friend? I'm leaning towards bull-shit on a previous cap job.

Edward
 
A "snap in" cap would be fine for this.....just zip tie it off good, and make sure the solder connection at the legs are good.

It's difficult to tell from the pictures, but those caps (look) original/old. The black one behind the V SIZE pot looks swollen. Is the guy you got this from a friend? I'm leaning towards bull-shit on a previous cap job.

Edward

He's my cousin, and I trust him completely. Maybe he re-capped a different part/board... I'll ask him again.

And yeah, I'm going to be doing a full cap out in the near future, probably early March.

Ok, now, this may seem like an odd question, but.. does the physical size of the cap matter? The snap-in ones I've seen are considerably smaller than that big black beast. I'm reasoning that it all comes down to the numbers, but... it just seems crazy that one can replace the other.
 
He's my cousin, and I trust him completely. Maybe he re-capped a different part/board... I'll ask him again.

And yeah, I'm going to be doing a full cap out in the near future, probably early March.

Ok, now, this may seem like an odd question, but.. does the physical size of the cap matter? The snap-in ones I've seen are considerably smaller than that big black beast. I'm reasoning that it all comes down to the numbers, but... it just seems crazy that one can replace the other.

The reason I don't think it's been capped.....a lot of those caps look Japanese, especially those light green wrapped one. I've only ever encountered those on late 70's/early 80's Japanese equipment. The easiest way to tell, look at the solder side of the chassis. There should be an obvious visual difference between old/original work and new work.

Modern "snap caps" are drastically smaller than their 30 year old counter-parts. You could always move to a beefy "screw-terminal" cap (but those can get expensive...and I feel not needed for this situation).
http://www.usamusement.com/nos_list.html

I also notice that cap is stamped "Hi-Ripple".....might want to get a high frequency cap or a low ESR cap when you replace it.

Edward
 
Ed, thanks a bunch! I'll be checking back with you when I start replacing all of those in a few weeks, as it'll be my first cap-out.
 
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