Space Invaders Bezel removal

TrevEB

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This weekend I will get back at it, and I really don't want to remove the mirror ever again.

The bezel has a metal strip along the bottom that can be lifted but not enough to remove the bezel.

I hope this is because you need a suction cup to lift the glass up and out of that metal strip.

Clips in the back? That would mean removing the mirror.
 
You can remove the front plexi by lifting straight up and then out. A suction cup helps alot, but is not necessary. Just took one out tonight.
 
Yea it's not bad. Just pull the clips in the back and lift up and pull from the front. Happens whenever you need to change bulbs.
 
Open the upper of the two back doors. On the inside top of the game there is a long bar that slides back to release the front bezel.
 
Can someone post some pictures of this bar? I have an original space invaders that I just got, owner had the top held in with duct tape. Obviously I think my bar is missing. Did luck out with the bulbs for the marquee, had boxes of them in the garage from working on the old trucks.
 
I will have to look at it more when I get home, thought there was something missing on the bottom, hopefully it is just a simple clip that I need to add inside to keep it together.
 
Thanks for the link to the pictures, I found the bars that you were talking about. They must have slid back over time and were not holding the glass anymore. Going to reinstall the glass tonight, got the machine working again last night by rebuilding the power supply. Only need to fix the sound missing when the fire button is pressed.
 
Yep, been there done that. You'll probably need the 4006 to get the missile shot fire.
 
I found the two bars that hold the bezel in place. I think my bezel is missing a piece, there are 2 pieces of molding on each side, and a piece on the bottom that has an edge so it doesn't drop down too far. I think there should be a piece on the top? When I set my bezel in and push the bars in so they are supposed to make contact, they are too high, they don't push against the glass. Should something be on the top part?
 
Hmm, I don't think they are supposed to push on the glass, the screened artwork is on there and you really don't want anything pushing on it or rubbing it. The bars are meant to come just above the plexi, locking it in place in the bottom channel and keeping people from being able to lift the glass up and out that aren't the keeper of the keys. The plexi should be inside a channel, so it's not going anywhere.
 
Even though it looks as if you had success getting your bezel removed... I figured I'd post this here...

Here is the deal with those stinking bezels on SI... there is a small strip of foam rubber that goes across the bottom of the light panel. The foam was originally designed to maintain pressure against the glass to take up the slack and keep it from rattling in place.

What ends up happening is that over 30+ years and if the bezel was not removed... the foam will dry up and stick to the back side of the bezel (pretty sure the heat from the lamps doesn't help either) . When you try to lift up it doesn't budge! It really does feel like its locked in place.

Here is the kicker... if you force it up, you can end up breaking the bottom trim piece or even worse, the bezel paint will give way and you will tear up your artwork on the back side of the glass..

Kind of sucks...

I was able to get my bezel off by slowly... and I mean slowly... applying constant lifting pressure to both the left and right sides of the bezel (from the bottom trim piece) in alternating fashion. Lifting left, lifting right and back and forth... This seemed to work as it finally gave way and I had no artwork damage.
 
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My piece of foam is still on the wood, but maybe it is not all completely there. Making sense now, :) My glass has movement back and forth, that is why there was tape on there. I need to get some new thicker foam so the glass does not move in and out. Will keep pressure to the front. ( major lightbulb went on)

Getting new black light bulb tomorrow from grainger for it.
 
Well I've learned something new on this thread. Next time I have the bezel off I'll have to look for that foam.
I'd thought I'd read somewhere that they used black light whites? Did they even have black light white's in 78?

My piece of foam is still on the wood, but maybe it is not all completely there. Making sense now, :) My glass has movement back and forth, that is why there was tape on there. I need to get some new thicker foam so the glass does not move in and out. Will keep pressure to the front. ( major lightbulb went on)

Getting new black light bulb tomorrow from grainger for it.
 
Mine looks like it was original, and yes it is a white/black light. Lowes and Home depot have the dark glass black light, Grainger was the quickest way to get a white one. Got a new starter while I was at it as well. Will have it back together Saturday. Will post pictures.
 
Re:

I don't know how many times I almost cut myself removing that mirror, lol.
 
Cool, we have a Grainger here too. Be nice if they had some in stock. The only thing I really didn't care much for was that little pin that retains the bulb. I mean it's hard enouph getting around the spacefield artwork as I replaced the burnt out tube and replaced it with a standard flourescent to have to fiddle with that pin. Makes me wonder if I should pick up two. I think I need one for my Tron to get it just right.

Mine looks like it was original, and yes it is a white/black light. Lowes and Home depot have the dark glass black light, Grainger was the quickest way to get a white one. Got a new starter while I was at it as well. Will have it back together Saturday. Will post pictures.
 
Here are a few pictures of the new bulb, powered up, and how great the image looks now that it is working right. :)

Grainger only took one day to get the bulb in.
 

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