Source for monitor dag spring assemblies

komodo

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Working on some 6100 monitors that have been exposed to salty air and the Dag spring assemblies have corroded to the point that they are no good.
Does anyone know where to purchase these from? I don't need a WG6100 spring assembly per se. Any Degaussing wire/spring setup would work. I realize these can be gotten from any 19" tv tube and adapted, I just don't have any tv's to rip apart. Unfortunately I saw a 19" tube assembly with a broken neck out at my storage units last week. If only I had thought about grabbing that part. I didn't see them on Chad's site but will send him an e-mail and see what I can find. In the meantime, if anyone has some from a parted out monitor, I'd love to purchase 2-3 of them.

For those that don't know what these are, they are NOT the degaussing coil which typically has a two prong plug to the monitor circuit board. They are usually singloe wire coneections thaqt provide a ground from the
aquadag on the back of the tube to the chassis. The ones on the G07 connect to the neckboard and are not really ideal for what I want but could be made to work if necessary. Usually it is just a piece of braided wire with a spring at one or both ends that connect to the ears of the monitor tube. Wells gardner 4900 and 4600 would be ideal.

Thanks for any assistance.
 
Thanks. I figured I would have to make my own. In the meantime, I found a necked 6100 :( that I can steal the assembly off of. I'm still going to need several to fix these rusted ones.
 
Go to goodwill and pick up some shitty tv's keep useable tubes and the dag springs
 
I went to the hardware store and found some suitable springs. I had to replace the dag strap as well, which was rusted and failing.... I used braided tinned copper strap for that. Soldered loops at each end, soldered the wire to the braid and then installed with springs. All this 'assembly' does is ground the DAG coating on the outside of the tube.
 
I'm rebuilding a Cinematronics BW X/Y "Keltron" monitor.
New tube and will be completely reworked with new chassis components.
I did notice, however, that I'm missing the DAG SPRING.
Any specific recommendations for this part?
 
I've salvaged a few dag springs 'the hard way', but only because I didn't have an easier alternative handy at the time.

You can take the broken pieces of the spring, soak them in white vinegar for a couple of days, which will dissolve the rust. Gently scrub the remaining parts to knock off any remaining rust, then you can solder the pieces back together. You just hook the pieces by coiling them together (which almost holds them by itself), but then just tack them with a dab of solder.

Also, you don't need the spring to extend all the way across the dag. Of course, it's better if it does, redundancy-wise, but many of the older b/w raster monitors don't even have a dag spring, and instead just have a metal 'finger' that touches the dag at one point.

I repaired a 19v2000 whose spring was half dissolved, by replacing the missing length with bare copper wire, and using the half of the spring that could be saved (which was the flat steel type, with a small spring at one end, for tension). After the vinegar soak, I was able to solder the parts together, get enough tension to hold it taut, and it worked fine.

Also, the key to soldering old parts is to get the pieces down to bare metal. I use my dremel with a wire wheel, to expose the spot I'm going to solder, It makes the solder stick immediately, and without much heat.
 
Also, if you're missing the spring entirely, you could probably fabricate one using some braided solder wick, and any small spring that is sufficient to provide a little bit of tension, at one end.
 
Also, if you're missing the spring entirely, you could probably fabricate one using some braided solder wick, and any small spring that is sufficient to provide a little bit of tension, at one end.


they do make that ground braid that sells by the foot and in different widths kind of like the stuff all the williams games had running through the entire cabinet.
 
Also, if you're missing the spring entirely, you could probably fabricate one using some braided solder wick, and any small spring that is sufficient to provide a little bit of tension, at one end.
Will it damage a K6100 to turn it on without the DAG wire being grounded (screwed down to the frame)? If so, what is the typical damage? If no damage, what will the K6100 not do as a result of the DAG being attached (beyond not working)?

Scott C.
 
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Will it damage a K6100 to turn it on without the DAG wire being grounded (screwed down to the frame)? If so, what is the typical damage? If no damage, what will the K6100 not do as a result of the DAG being attached?

Scott C.



You usually get arcing in some form, as the HV has no reference, so it will jump to whatever it can. (I don't have specifics for a 6100, but it's something I wouldn't recommend trying.)

There was a thread recently about someone with a raster monitor that had a broken dag wire, and I think it was arcing inside the neck. I forget whose thread it was.
 
You usually get arcing in some form, as the HV has no reference, so it will jump to whatever it can. (I don't have specifics for a 6100, but it's something I wouldn't recommend trying.)

There was a thread recently about someone with a raster monitor that had a broken dag wire, and I think it was arcing inside the neck. I forget whose thread it was.
Thanks for the feedback. Last evening while testing a fully rebuilt K6100, I inadvertently ran (doing troubleshooting) it for a couple of minutes without the DAG being attached.

The K6100 monitor is still not working, so I want to make sure this goof didn't damage it (IE. Cause the failure). I saw no sparking, but had zero picture (had deflection chatter, had HV crackle, had neck glow). My o-scope was running at the same time and the deflection chatter matched the display on the o-scope to a "T". No brightness when the HVT "Screen" was turned-up. The two RED lights on the LV2000 Lite were on solid, while the red Deflection board spot killer light was off. I swapped-in a known good HV unit and saw the exact same results. I should just start a thread on it after I gather a little more info.

Scott C.
 
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This thread has me thinking....

I have a G07 that actually looks pretty good but there's a pretty nasty sizzle/arcing sound coming from I believe inside the neck socket. I took it apart expecting to find some corroded spark gaps but they're all pristine so I kind of ran out of ideas.

I do remember the dag spring is really really rusty though. I wonder if a poor connection there could cause the arcing inside the neck socket. I guess I'll have to clean it up per Andy's description above and see if that fixes it.

Learn something every day on here it seems. ;)
 
Thanks for the feedback. Last evening while testing a fully rebuilt K6100, I inadvertently ran (doing troubleshooting) it for a couple of minutes without the DAG being attached.

The K6100 monitor is still not working, so I want to make sure this goof didn't damage it (IE. Cause the failure). I saw no sparking, but had zero picture (had deflection chatter, had HV crackle, had neck glow). My o-scope was running at the same time and the deflection chatter matched the display on the o-scope to a "T". No brightness when the HVT "Screen" was turned-up. I swapped-in a known good HV unit and saw the exact same results. I should just start a thread on it after I gather a little more info.

Scott C.



Do you know if the tube is good? If you have all 3 of those things, you should get something, assuming your game board is also putting out a good Z signal. If you were getting a picture on your scope, and you hear chatter and have no spot killer, then deflection is good.

Make sure you have power to the neck board, too (the 3 single wires that go to the deflection board).
 
Do you know if the tube is good? If you have all 3 of those things, you should get something, assuming your game board is also putting out a good Z signal. If you were getting a picture on your scope, and you hear chatter and have no spot killer, then deflection is good.

Make sure you have power to the neck board, too (the 3 single wires that go to the deflection board).
No, I do not know if the tube is good due to just digging-out it of an Operator's warehouse recently. My Tempest boardset, wiring, ARII, power transfer, etc. is 100% as I tested it with a fully working K6100 just minutes before. I will double-check the three wires going from the neck board to the deflection board, but I feel very comfortable they were installed correctly.

I'm going to swap the rebuilt deflection board into a known good K6100 to see what it does. I have tried two different HV units on the unknown K6100 (the rebuilt, but unknown HV unit, then a known good HV unit and saw the same results). Admittedly, when I put the rebuilt, but unknown HV unit back on the working K6100, it did not work. This is why I was thinking I perhaps damaged something elsewhere in the monitor, but running it without a DAG (on both of those HV units). All of the chassis transistors were tested prior to any testing and all tested fine (no deflection or HV boards was present during the testing).

When I got this uknown K6100, it was missing the HV and deflection boards, so I do not know any other history. Correct me if I am wrong, but can a bad or necked K6100 tube have crackle if the tube is necked or bad? I am going to put my HV probe on it to see what it being fed to the anode. Based upon my testing so far, this is a weird one, at least for me.

BTW, my good K6100 and this unknown K6100 are both K6102, so they have the P327, P329, and P323/8 boards.

Scott C.
 
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No, I do not know if the tube is good due to just digging-out it of an Operator's warehouse recently. My Tempest boardset, wiring, ARII, power transfer, etc. is 100% as I tested it with a fully working K6100 just minutes before. I will double-check the three wires going from the neck board to the deflection board, but I feel very comfortable they were installed correctly.

I'm going to swap the rebuilt deflection board into a known good K6100 to see what it does. I have tried two different HV units on the unknown K6100 (the rebuilt, but unknown HV unit, then a known good HV unit and saw the same results). Admittedly, when I put the rebuilt, but unknown HV unit back on the working K6100, it did not work. This is why I was thinking I perhaps damaged something elsewhere in the monitor, but running it without a DAG (on both of those HV units). All of the chassis transistors were tested prior to any testing and all tested fine (no deflection or HV boards was present during the testing).

When I got this uknown K6100, it was missing the HV and deflection boards, so I do not know any other history. Correct me if I am wrong, but can a bad or necked K6100 tube have crackle if the tube is necked or bad? I am going to put my HV probe on it to see what it being fed to the anode. Based upon my testing so far, this is a weird one, at least for me.

BTW, my good K6100 and this unknown K6100 are both K6102, so they have the P327, P329, and P323/8 boards.

Scott C.


Yeah, this is an odd one. But I'm not convinced it isn't something dumb, like a wire that broke inside the insulation, or some other simple thing. Yes, test your HV with the probe for sure, as that will rule that out. Usually if you have chatter and HV, but no picture, it's either no neck glow, or a neck board/socket issue. Try swapping the neck board.
 
Yeah, this is an odd one. But I'm not convinced it isn't something dumb, like a wire that broke inside the insulation, or some other simple thing. Yes, test your HV with the probe for sure, as that will rule that out. Usually if you have chatter and HV, but no picture, it's either no neck glow, or a neck board/socket issue. Try swapping the neck board.
Andy, you read my mind and I am swapping the neck board now. The neck board I am testing with is unknown, a P323/328, but it was capped and had all of the solder joints fixed. Perhaps there is an issue with the socket or I screwed something-up. :(

Scott C.
 
Andy, you read my mind and I am swapping the neck board now. The neck board I am testing with is unknown, a P323/328, but it was capped and had all of the solder joints fixed. Perhaps there is an issue with the socket or I screwed something-up. :(

Scott C.


All of the different versions of boards are all compatible, so there's no issues there.

My first guess is a broken pin/connection inside the neck socket. Could be other stuff on the neck board, but I've honestly never seen a bad one.
 
All of the different versions of boards are all compatible, so there's no issues there.

My first guess is a broken pin/connection inside the neck socket. Could be other stuff on the neck board, but I've honestly never seen a bad one.
I just examined the neck board and all of the pins appear good, but swapping in another neck board is simple enough to at least eliminate that. The neck pins are the typical multi-color (from heat). The wiring from the neck board to the HV unit was also missing, so I am wondering about that. However, if that wiring were bad, that would also eliminate neck glow, which I have.

Scott C.
 
I just examined the neck board and all of the pins appear good, but swapping in another neck board is simple enough to at least eliminate that. The neck pins are the typical multi-color (from heat). The wiring from the neck board to the HV unit was also missing, so I am wondering about that. However, if that wiring were bad, that would also eliminate neck glow, which I have.

Scott C.


The wiring from the heck board to the HV is what controls focus and brightness. You need those. Glow is powered by the 3 wires that go from the neck to the deflection board. Separate power.
 
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