sound board woes

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A6 Sound Board and A20 Auxiliary Sound Board LEDs.
Each of these two sound board have an LED. Both boards' LED should be flashing continually when the game is powered on. If neither LED is flashing (off), usually this means the sound board to CPU board connector at CPU board P4 is disconnected. Or there is no +12/-12 power coming from the Auxiliary Power Supply. copied from pinrepair.com

my sound board led lights and stays on, but is very dim... it gets +12.04 v and -11.98 v the auxilary sound board led sometimes lights sometimes doesnt, when it does light, it stays on. neither LED flash.

when i power up i get the dual screech, but the led's dont flash and i have yet to hear any sound other than static that gets louder if you turn the volume pot up.

2L. Sound Problems.
If either both Auxiliary sound power fuses F10 and F11 are blown, no sound will work in the game. If only one Auxiliary sound power fuse is blown, usually the sound will still work (just not as loud). Auxiliary Power Supply holds the sound amplifiers (TDA2040, but can be replaced with the less powerful TDA2030). Also the op-amp MC3403 (or LM324AN or NTE987) can be blown, along with the LM340T (or 7805) +5 voltage regulator. If the game boots with the "dual tone squelch" than the sound boards are working. The CPU board's A1P4 connector must be in place or the CPU board can not talk to the Sound board. If this conector is removed, the sound board won't boot properely and there will be no sound.
copied from pinrepair.com

both fuses F10 and F11 ohm good with .4 ohms resistance, out of the fuse holder.
P4 is plugged in at the CPU board. my +5 V is almost dead on the money at +5.03 V.

im at a loss any ideas?
 
i know theres a reason why? would you be willing to share with me as im trying to learn as much as i can?
 
well tonight tinkering with the machine, it no longer does the dual beep, just one beep. not sure why as i havent changed anything. also when trying to enter test mode, it freezes, and does not proceed past the first screen upon pushing the test button. also when in tournament mode, when open the coin door it goes to the screen where you select free play and such, it keeps scrolling constantly and wont let me change any settings, then if i close the coin door it stays stuck on that screen, must power off to change anything. sometimes when machine is powered on for the first 60 seconds when pushing the right flipper button it will fire the car crusher flipper, but then it stops and wont do it again for a few power cycles. anyone wanna buy a project? hahaha seriously though i need help on this guys and gals.
 
this machine has me all confused, seems a different situation every time i turn it on.... any ideas? please?
 
Sorry, I wish I could help but I haven no knowledge of this. I was winging it on my sound board and it beat me down.

BTW, the reason I recommended a 1 amp regulator is simply because they are a more robust part.

You could try RGP. It is hit and miss sometimes. And if you don't get interest right away, your post can die a quick death.
 
edit: Thanks

i don't know what to check, i check things and follow wiring schematics until i'm delusional... and i still wind up with the same issue... i'm going to the local electronics parts store saturday morning to pick as many items as i can up then going to get a pinscore gamatron and a blackout... any suggestion as to parts i should get or attempt to get?

Transistors: keep a few of each of these around:
12N10L or IRL530 or 20N10L or 22NE10L or IRL540 (driver board and auxiliary driver board). The 20N10L or 22NE10L or IRL540 are the best replacements, as they have higher drain current capabilities. These are used for coils transistors. The "L" means it's a logic-level MosFet. These parts should *not* have a "F" anywhere in the part number.
12P06 or IRF9530 (driver board). Used for lamp matrix strobes. Yes this one does have the "F" (IRF) part number.
Chips:
74HC273: used to drive the 12N10L MosFet transistors.
7406: used to drive the MosFet 12P06 transistors.
74HC164: used to drive the 7406 for the lamps.
74HC123AN: used on the CPU board at U11. Note this chip *must* be this exact HC variety (the AN suffix is important too so it appears).
6264 RAM: main RAM at U3 for the CPU board. Note Cueball Wizard and prior System3 CPU games use a 6116 RAM (but these board can be re-socketed for a 6264). If replacing a 6116 RAM instead replace it with a 6264.
Dallas DS1210 battery watchdog chip.
LM339: voltage comparitor used heavily on the CPU board.
65C22 or 6522: PIA chip used on the CPU board. I've never seen one fail, but still not a bad idea to have around.
65C02: the CPU chip. Again never seen one fail but still worth having around.
Chip Sockets or Machine Pin Strips: keep 8, 14, 16, 18 and 40 pin sockets around. Get good quality sockets! An even better (but more expensive) alternative is "machine pin strips". These come in a snapable length they can be custom made to any size socket needed. But the really good thing about them is they allow complete access to the socket area. These can be soldered into a board from the top and bottom.
Misc. Parts
CR2430 3.2 volt lithium battery, used on the CPU board (24mm x 3mm). Available from Mouser.com part# 639-cr2430. Alternatively BR2325/1HG.
Solder-in 24mm socket for above CR2430 battery. Available from Mouser.com part# 614-hu2430-1.
Or altnatively, a two "AA" battery pack can be used instead of the above CR battery and socket.
Diodes: keep a few 1N4004 and 1N4148 (1N914 or NTE519) diodes around.
Connector pins and housings: used to repair connectors. Get the some .156" Molex crimp-on Trifurcon variety. Also some Molex "Mini-Fit Jr." 4.2mm (.165") terminal pins. Part numbers for Sockets (Female pins), wire size 18-24 Tin plated Berylium Copper #39-00-0060. Wire size 18-24 Tin plated Brass #39-00-0039. Part numbers for pins (male), wire size 18-24 Tin plated Berylium Copper #39-00-0062. Wire size 18-24 Tin plated Brass #39-00-0041. See the connector section for more details.

what on that list would be truly beneficial to have?
 
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The primary thing I've needed are diodes (1N4004). Second, fuses. Almost every game I've gotten was over-fused and I've had to put in the right values.

I've primarily worked on DE boards, but the main things I've needed are the transistors on the CPU board.

If you have any DE games, get fuse clips. Looks like you don't have any DE games but if you plan on picking any up you'll probably need them.

It doesn't hurt to have a spare bridge rectifier, lugged or wire leads depending on what machines you have on hand.

Have 0.156 connectors if that is what your machines need, headers, and crimp contacts on hand. Maybe some of the other Molex connectors depending on your games.
 
alright awesome, im not against data east or anything i just havent found any in my el cheapo price range :) youve been a great help....Thanks!
 
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well i got my sound working....i feel like a real boob. i had the ribbon cable in backwards, blue stripe on wrong side, flipped it around just due to being and a loss for what it could be, boom it works i have sound now.... im very embarrassed.
 
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