Soul Calibur Conv HACK JOB Need Advice

TRK

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Alrighty Ladies and Lads,

Accuired this SC Conversion from an MK and whoever "worked" on it last did a complete hack job. My question is about that power supply.. its a 115 2.5 amp but dont they require 3 amps?

At one point it was just playing blind, now its just humming w/power on. Showing 136v at monitor power points on supply????

This is a complete HACK job.. see pics. Any help would be nice. I can try another PS as I have a few.

I can usually hold my own on repair but this conversion HACK junk is like rebuilding the machine!

As you can clearly see, someone had their way with voltage adjustments!

P.S. If this was YOUR old game... you should be embarrassed!! But its cool cause you are anonymous.
 

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meter every connector that has AC coming out of it. do the monitor plug, the AC wiring going to the game power supply (ideally I would unscrew the AC wires off it and place alligator clips on the ends so you don't permacook that too) and also the marquee.

considering you have an isolation transformer, I'm going to say your problem lies there if you're getting 130+V anywhere.

I've actually seen 136-137V before, it was on a Pinball 2000 machine that the global power supply was jumpered an entire row off to produce that bizarre voltage. I think you'll find it as no surprise that the monitor, the computer power supply, lightsaber neon (it was an SW Ep1) and the light fixture were all toasted on it.

your monitor looks like a Wells K7000, if so then it requires an isolation transformer, and more than likely it's french toast. it's fixable however.

your game power supply will probably be no good, not entirely sure if your Soul Calibur board is bad or not.

get readings on all the AC points I mentioned above however and return back with the results.

and of course, UNPLUG those AC connectors with the machine off before testing, try to minimize the damage. :( and I'm sorry you got screwed.
 
Mecha,
Thanks for your reply. I knew full well going into this that it was going to be a mess. I am up for the task. As of right now.. the marquee lights and that is it.

I will get AC readings a bit later today. I just wanted to make sure that was the right power supply if it even works.

The reason as I said he ditched it is because of no monitor power. As you can see with the fancy wire nuts he connected thats where I was also reading 136. Its a k7400. But I think Ill go with your assessment, get readings, and figure out what is going on.
 
Alright
First off everything was loose, verified voltages on most primary stuff and is good. Now its back to playing blind, but I am showing very little voltage on r301 either end is almost nothing. So per flow chart its c55 filter cap.. any other ideas since I dont have the board out. Does anyone have a map for a k7000?
Thanks
 
considering how easily the K7000 can blow if it's not hooked up to an iso, I'm inclined to believe it won't like 136V either. :)

I just rebuilt my K7000 tonight, had the flyback burn out and wiped out EVERYTHING. I had to replace traces with jumpers. just glad my SFA3 works again.

now that I've joined the K7000 club, I guess I can lend a hand with them now.

check the fuse first, it's probably blown. next items in the list to check for shorts would be the voltage regulator (IC4, mounted to the heatsink), and the HOT (mounted to that screwed-on L-shaped metal heatsink bracket).

also, do you know for sure it's a K7000? I'm not like a master identifier of monitor chassis. there was another variant of it called K7200 that had its own power supply, but given that there's an iso in the bottom of the cab I'm leaning toward it being a K7000.

EDIT: K7000 manual, with schematics. http://technical-department.servegame.com/monitor_schematic_diagrams/wells-gardner/WG-K7000.pdf
 
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Its actually a k7193, fuse isnt blown and as I said the VR is showing 2.5 or so on BOTH sides.

I guess I will just pull and and start checking, seeing those sweet wire nuts its not too far off to think someone shorted one of the wires. Maybe the diodes on the right near the back in the power area Rectifier Bridge????. Ive already checked the shut off pot. Everything looks clean so far. Flyback looks decent visually as well.
 
did you read cadillacman's K7000 common issues thread? lol

he lives for those things, and he says diode failure is rare. most likely your IC4 is bad, as well as the HOT (meter the center and third legs it says, if you get no reading it's shorted). did you try ohm-ing the C36 cap as well? if it's the 4 leg one, meter from side to side the long way, the two legs on each side are the same point. if you don't get a reading, it's shorted as well.

IMO, your best bet is probably doing what I just did and order the rebuild kit from www.therealbobroberts.net. just change it all out. if I can make it work, I'm sure you can too.

on mine I had a white knob flyback that I put off changing out, like an idiot. when it went, it cooked the C36 cap, and all the traces underneath it. took the HOT, then the VR, and then the fuse had some windings hanging off it. :) mine ran for 30 minutes in that condition, so it fucked a lot up!
 
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Mecha,
Im on it but thought i would put up a couple shots as I go.. What is that jumper to c45?

See anything else standing out at ya?
 

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it's identical to the one I just fixed. lol

the jumper is normal. looks to be a ground wire of some sort. it goes to the frame, which goes to the neckboard, which goes to the CRT ground. considering how finnicky these are about the CRT ground (running without will make it go kaboom) I would like to think that the C45 jumper is necessary.

the monitor doesn't run at all you said?

mine also had some other caps mounted underneath. I can't remember which ones off-hand. mine also had a diode that attaches to the C36 trace (which is now 3 jumpers and a big glob of solder on mine now). these are probably the differences between a K7171 and a K7193 though, the different revisions have minor changes to the electronics.
 
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yeah, you're looking at a rebuild then. have you ever ordered from Bob before? I don't know why the hell I waited so long to do it, lol. even with my check traveling long distances to get to him, I had my parts within 5 days. his shipping speed truly is psychotic.

he sells a K7000 rebuild kit, which includes flyback, caps, new fuse, and HOT. I had to replace the C36 cap on mine, and potentially the C38 needs to be next cause my width coil is non-responsive. you're probably looking at maybe $40 altogether. other ailments that affect the K7000 are cold solder. cadillacman's thread in the monitor section can tell you everything you need to know about these.

I hardwired the G2 on the flyback, still haven't figured out how to swap the connectors for those. lol
 
This is my first order with Bob but I emailed yesterday. I will drop a check in the mail tomorrow. I will advise.
Thanks for your help.
 
Ok,
Hot checks out, c36 (2 leg), and c55 and VR. . R103 however seems awful close to a dead short. Ill seek some reflowing opportunities while awaiting the rebuild kit. Is there a way to test the actual flyback?

What I do know is when its all connected my b+ was way way low like 2.5 on both sides. I would say ic4 too but it tests good and I can also see where it was replaced? I think the 08 sticker is the tip off but I cant read it.

under c55 which is a 200v 560uf is that solder job correct? was it a conversion from a 4 leg or something? It seems to be in the trace but looks bad

I am not bucking ordering a rebuild kit, just trying to learn some stuff too. Plus I think as I said someone had their way with this and it could be as easy as finding their flawed work.

Sorry about my bad pics.. iphone sucks for closeups
 

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Ok,
Got this to at least fire up. Fuse was blown even though it LOOKED ok visusally. Didnt test out. Replaced fuse, found out ground for neck board was hooked up wrong.

Now this is what I get.. Seems adjustments work, just nothing adjusts out the sweet yellow color. I have no clue if anyone touched the Cut Off or Frequency pots.. Is there a way to test them for where they need to be?

Tube shorted? New Neckboard or am I done here.
 

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Check the caps on the cpu board of the game, or try another game in it. I have a namco system 11 board (soul edge) missing a cap that gives me a picture exactly like that. Its c60 on the system 11 cpu board, but i doubt that helps much since soul calibur is system 12.
 
Ninja,
Thanks for the lead on this. I plugged in another jamma game and it did the same thing. SOOOO I looked at the vid connections.. they were in BACKWARDS.. I didnt catch it.. after a bit of tuning.. there it is baby!!
 
so is it all good now? I just got home and saw your PM.

were you saying the monitor CRT ground on the neckboard was tapped into the cabinet's earth ground? I'm not entirely sure if that's a good idea or not, lol. it's supposed to just be the ground wire/springs going around the tube that go to the ground pin on the neckboard.
 
Yeah and let me tell you .. it doesnt work. Is this the definition of a hot chassis? Floating ground?

Its alright.. I am getting horizontal lines at startup "sometimes" other times its ok. More cold solder would be my bet.

Thanks for your help on this one. ///AGAIN
 
common failure point on the K7000..... is cold solder. particularly on the input header pins supposedly. I never encountered it on any of mine, but I went over it anyway.

what kind of voltage are you getting at the monitor's AC plug?

I'm concerned about the arcing you're seeing. are there mica insulators on the HOT and the IC4? (or that clear plastic stuff, with thermal compound on both sides). I'd undo that green ground. make sure the CRT ground runs strictly from the tube's ground wire to the neckboard. make sure that's soldered in good.

personally I'd pop the anode off, discharge it first of course, and put it back in.

where exactly is the arcing coming from? and how the hell is this thing still semi-working? lol

EDIT: your voltage regulator looks nothing like mine. STR3130 is that what it says? is this a 25" monitor?
 
Ok wait.. something got lost here. After moving the earth ground to the monitor ground where it should be there is no more arcing.


It is working good, i just have final tweaking to do but what I was saying is "sometimes" when I turn it on, its a horizontal scrambled image, once reset it goes away.
 
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