some 33" monitor problems.

Stuffmonger

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I have a monitor in my virtua fighter 3 deluxe cab. This thing just keeps giving me problems. I bought a new (to me) monitor from a member here, who said it was working, and hooked it up in my cab. Wired it up, and electricity arced on the power board, and was caught by the afci breaker hopefully before any (more) damage was done. It is a beast of a monitor, and I really would rather not take it out again.

Looks most like the k8000 series med res pic on bob roberts' page. Has the power board separate from the rest of the chassis.

85x0298a is the number on the neck board
85x0299b is the number on the power(?) board
I can't get into the cab enough to see the number on the main chassis without removing the monitor, and it's a real pain in the ass to remove.

I need to know how the power should be hooked up. Mine has 4 leads for power (2 orange, 2 red). I tried doing reds to hot, and oranges to neutral, and saw a fireworks show that tripped my house breaker. No fuses on the monitor are blown, and there are no scorch marks on the chassis, so, I am hoping it didn't get damaged since it all happened super quick. But, I don't want to try it again if I have it wired wrong, and have actually wired the hot and neutral together or something stupid like that due to poor color coding.

Does anybody have any info on this style monitor?
 
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Well, as far as info is concerned - I'd start with the manual:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells_Gardener_K8000.pdf

Which specifies that you need a special isolation transformer to run this monitor. From looking at the wiring, it is probably just an isolation transformer with two separate (isolated) secondaries, so I would imagine you could just use two normal isolation transformers.

But, I hate to say it, if you hooked it up without an isolation transformer(s), which it sounds like you did (references to "hot" and "neutral" are meaningless after an isolation transformer), you probably fried lots of stuff. Time to pull the chassis and survey the damage.

-Ian
 
I have a 33" K8000 in a Ridge Racer. conveniently, all the wooden panels unbolt off, so I'll get pics for you.

and call me an idiot, but didn't the K8000's design (with the separate power supply board) eliminate the need for an isolation transformer?

there's a lot of wiring on such a monster, but I'll try to get you pics of everything today.
 
and call me an idiot, but didn't the K8000's design (with the separate power supply board) eliminate the need for an isolation transformer?
Idiot!

:D :D :D

Yeah, if you look at the manual it gives you the usual dire warnings about an isolation transformer. And if you look at the power supply it's a traditional hot chassis sort of design.

-Ian
 
lol

it's an odd arrangement. it's like a K7000 on crack. I always just assumed if it had a power supply in the monitor that it didn't need an iso, but clearly the K8000 is a special case.

I'm leaving now, try to get pictures of the wiring soon.
 
It was hooked up to the isolation transformer that was in the cab (original one). The iso looks a bit funky, and has 5 wires connected to it with a bridge between 2 of them. Then, the wires go to a 3 pin molex. So, I hacked the other end of the molex (monitor end) with the 4 wires from the monitor. I just say hot/neutral to designate between colors. Used to black being hot, and white neutral.
 
Trace the colored wires back to the power board on the monitor and see what pins they connect to, then compare that to the manual to see what you supplied with 120vAC. You probably wired both legs of one input to one AC leg, and both legs of the other input to the other AC leg.

But, besides, from looking at the manual, I *think* you need a special transformer with two isolated secondaries, or two separate isolation transformers.

Let's hope that you didn't fry anything too badly.... and hopefully now you'll read the manual before hooking convenient looking wires up to power :D

-Ian
 
Trace the colored wires back to the power board on the monitor and see what pins they connect to, then compare that to the manual to see what you supplied with 120vAC. You probably wired both legs of one input to one AC leg, and both legs of the other input to the other AC leg.

But, besides, from looking at the manual, I *think* you need a special transformer with two isolated secondaries, or two separate isolation transformers.

Let's hope that you didn't fry anything too badly.... and hopefully now you'll read the manual before hooking convenient looking wires up to power :D

-Ian

If I had had the manual, I would have looked it up >_<. But alas, I only have 3 or 4 monitor manuals, and none of them are k8000 ones. The isolation transformer in the cab has something like 10 connections on it, so it probably is the right one... maybe it just wasn't hooked up for this monitor from the factory, but was able to be.
 
So, yeah... this monitor color coding is officially retarded.

the two red wires are both on pins 2 and 3, and the oranges are on 3 and 7... So, I ran both + and - together creating the definition of a short... twice. Brilliant.

I hope the afci caught me in time. Well, thanks a lot for the manual, it is a great help.
 
sorry for being an asshole, I had to do work. ;/

if I recall though, the power goes in through the large Peter Chou unit, then the AC comes out of that, runs to an iso, and then that runs up to the power supply board.

what are you saying, you ran hot/hot and neutral/neutral to what should have been hot/neutral and hot/neutral?

I think if you would've zapped anything it would've been limited to just the power supply board, cause it was only on long enough to trigger the GFCI.

you'd think it would pop a fuse if anything. this isn't exactly a K7000 here huh? ;)
 
sorry for being an asshole, I had to do work. ;/

if I recall though, the power goes in through the large Peter Chou unit, then the AC comes out of that, runs to an iso, and then that runs up to the power supply board.

what are you saying, you ran hot/hot and neutral/neutral to what should have been hot/neutral and hot/neutral?

I think if you would've zapped anything it would've been limited to just the power supply board, cause it was only on long enough to trigger the GFCI.

you'd think it would pop a fuse if anything. this isn't exactly a K7000 here huh? ;)

I have AFCI breakers, so, as soon as it detected an arc, it tripped (which apparently was before 4 amps could go through the monitor since the cabinet fuse didn't pop (neither did any monitor fuses). Like was previously mentioned, it appears that this monitor style requires 2 sources of AC current from the isolation transformer. The way they color matched the wiring makes it one source of current one color, and another color for the other source. So, by crimping the two of the same colors together, I basically did the same thing as putting a piece of foil into a wall receptacle.
 
tell me what exactly you need to know, and which connector you're talking about. I have to work on the shifter on Ridge Racer later, so I'll tear off all the back panels too. I might even pop the chassis out cause there were some caps that I didn't change out on it cause the voltages didn't match, which like Ken/Dokert/Bob/etc. all pretty much assure that you can go with whatever the kit's got..... I suppose.

I wanna document all the other caps that aren't part of the cap kit, since it's such an oddball one. I wish WG weren't such dicks about this model, cause I think it's a pretty solid piece of equipment, but what do I know..
 
tell me what exactly you need to know, and which connector you're talking about. I have to work on the shifter on Ridge Racer later, so I'll tear off all the back panels too. I might even pop the chassis out cause there were some caps that I didn't change out on it cause the voltages didn't match, which like Ken/Dokert/Bob/etc. all pretty much assure that you can go with whatever the kit's got..... I suppose.

I wanna document all the other caps that aren't part of the cap kit, since it's such an oddball one. I wish WG weren't such dicks about this model, cause I think it's a pretty solid piece of equipment, but what do I know..

I don't really need anything more. Going by the manual, I can hook it up to the right phases, I think.
 
excellent. everything that could go wrong today did, I haven't even made it remotely close to the wall Ridge Racer's at. lol

been fixing laser tag equipment and battling rooftop AC units.
 
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