Not really. There's no real shotgun kit for these deflection boards. Most of the issues stem from broken solder joints on the headers, which then causes the whole deflection system (LV board, frame transistors, and transistors on the board) to nuke.
You can test Q603/604/703/704 in circuit. Compare the readings to the equivalent transistor in the opposite axis (i.e., Q603/703 should behave the same, and 604/704). In circuit, and testing in diode mode (the same way you test the frame transistors) you should get voltage drops to or from the base (center pin), to the other two pins in one direction, and either 0 or 1 small drop (0.3V) in the opposite direction. This small drop is due to testing in-circuit, but that's normal. As long as nothing is shorted, and you measure all the drops. you should be ok.
Also test D602 and 702 to make sure they are not shorted.
With the board out of the cab, reflow all headers, and test each header pin, from the tip of each pin (on the parts side) to a spot on the respective trace on the solder side, to make sure there are no cracked traces.
Beyond that, you do need to replace C800-803. Those might be the issue, if the SK is going dim. I use these ceramic ones now, which are much better and smaller than electrolytics:
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If you don't have any, get yourself a dozen each of MPSA-06 and MPSA-56, as they are used on these and other boards, and are handy subs for a lot of things. Don't replace any yet, but you might need to later, so just make sure you have spares.
I'm suspecting after you replace the caps, that might solve the problem. There's no other need to shotgun anything else, except any browned resistors. Especially check R707 and 607, as they are sometimes burned, but hard to see under the bigger power resistors.