Soldering Rookie Question

adamzero

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Ok, so I've started my first soldering project; I'm replacing some of the caps on my Zaxxon's audio board, as prescribed in the game's KLOV info. I've had no issues thusfar & I've cleanly removed all the caps I've needed to, and I'm waiting for the new caps to come in the mail.

When they show up, I need to buy some solder...but I don't know what size/type. I'm guessing something fairly thin because the pads are so close together on these small caps...and I don't want to be globbing solder all over. Any recommendations?

Also, with this new solder, is there a preferred working temp? I noticed that for removing the caps I needed the soldering iron turned up all the way to the 450 range.

Thanks guys.
 
650F is the preferred temp.

60/40 lead/tin rosin core or no-clean core solder. NOT Acid flux.

Can also use 63/37 lead/tin solder with rosin or no-clean core.

DO NOT use lead free or silver solder.

You can buy it at Radio Shack. The preferred size is .032

RJ
 
I like using the 63/37 because it melts slightly cooler than 60/40. I use it mostly in model railroading though, when soldering feeder wires to tracks...helps to make the joint quicker and hopefully not melt the plastic ties as much :) But it worked good when I was soldering in a new TTL chip on a board recently.
 
I find that the required temperature has a fair bit to do with technique. I like to have a nice hot iron and get the job done quick, others seem to prefer to have it lower and take their time.

You'll get a feel for the way you like to work soon enough. And always remember heat what you're soldering rather than the solder itself.
 
Another word of advice: Wait until you get the replacement caps and do one at a time. That way you wont accidentally put a cap in backwards. Some pcbs have the cap orientation marked. Some don't.
 
Another word of advice: Wait until you get the replacement caps and do one at a time. That way you wont accidentally put a cap in backwards. Some pcbs have the cap orientation marked. Some don't.

And in the case of the G07 monitors... one is marked backwards on the board.
 
DO NOT use lead free or silver solder.

I'd just like to elaborate, you CAN get away with lead-free solder if you turn the iron up hotter (750-800F or so), but it significantly increases the risk of damaging something, and is more prone to cold joints. 60/40 is strongly preferred here.

But DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES EVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER. Acid core solder is for plumbing, NOT electronics. The acid WILL do damage, most likely A LOT of damage.
 
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And in the case of the G07 monitors... one is marked backwards on the board.

Hey CM... I'm going to be doing a cap kit on a G07 on my Zaxxon, can you elaborate on this so I don't mess up?

Related to: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=223836

And it makes me feel like this right now:
RageFaceBlackSS.png
 
I'll let the monitor repair guys give you more info on that issue. I don't repair many - just my own and the last few that needed repairing I just traded Komodo some repair services so he'd do 'em for me. ;)
 
channelmanic said:
And in the case of the G07 monitors... one is marked backwards on the board.
Hey CM... I'm going to be doing a cap kit on a G07 on my Zaxxon, can you elaborate on this so I don't mess up?

Capacitor C302 is marked backwards on one side of the board - IIRC it's the solder side that's wrong. Of course, this is from memory - that might be wrong too :)

Basically, when removing caps, just pay attention to be sure that you know which way they go - verify the board markings against the old capacitor. The board markings are not always present or correct.

-Ian
 
Capacitor C302 is marked backwards on one side of the board - IIRC it's the solder side that's wrong. Of course, this is from memory - that might be wrong too :)

Basically, when removing caps, just pay attention to be sure that you know which way they go - verify the board markings against the old capacitor. The board markings are not always present or correct.

-Ian

Yes, it is the solder side that is marked incorrectly.
 
Hey guys-

Ok, so I've gotten the hang of soldering & I've done a few cap kits since starting this thread (thanks to everyone who helped)...

BUT..

I'm in need of some guidance. I ordered BR cap kits for my Asteroids & Asteroids Deluxe.
The paper/guide that came with it lists locations to replace caps... C500-503... C504... fine, got 'em. The issue is that it also lists positions of C900, C901, C904, C908 as replacement locations. These don't exist, as far as I can tell.

I was thinking that maybe these could be the C100, C101 spots, but maybe not because C104 & C108 don't exist... and I don't see caps matching (or close to matching) what the kit provided.

If the 2 1000uf 50v caps replace the big black caps, ok, but those appear to have 3 legs, looking at the solder side. And again, even if those are correct, where are the other two locations?
 
I run my iron in the 650° - 660° range. Sometimes I set it to 666° if im feeling evil :)

I am close to this.

Soldering new parts into board 614 Fahrenheit === 323 Celsius

Removing old parts 690 Fahrenheit==== 365 Celsius.

Post a pic of the solder station.
 
Here's a handy tutorial for those who are new to the field.

Soldering is Easy (PDF)

My father sent this to me just the other day. He was an electrician and did lots of electronics work as well. It's really unlikely that I'd be interested in or able to fix these games if it weren' for him.


Capacitor C302 is marked backwards on one side of the board - IIRC it's the solder side that's wrong. Of course, this is from memory - that might be wrong too :)

Basically, when removing caps, just pay attention to be sure that you know which way they go - verify the board markings against the old capacitor. The board markings are not always present or correct.

I just ran into this last night. The slip with the Bob Roberts kit also mentions that it's wrong, but I hadn't read that far down. Just put the cap in the same way the old one was.
 
If that 450 is Celsius that is 842 Fahrenheit<<<<that is too high>>>>



Ok, so I've started my first soldering project; I'm replacing some of the caps on my Zaxxon's audio board, as prescribed in the game's KLOV info. I've had no issues thusfar & I've cleanly removed all the caps I've needed to, and I'm waiting for the new caps to come in the mail.

When they show up, I need to buy some solder...but I don't know what size/type. I'm guessing something fairly thin because the pads are so close together on these small caps...and I don't want to be globbing solder all over. Any recommendations?

Also, with this new solder, is there a preferred working temp? I noticed that for removing the caps I needed the soldering iron turned up all the way to the 450 range.

Thanks guys.
 
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