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I'm starting this thread after getting a couple PM's with questions on this. I'll start by answering the question and say: Don't. It's not a great idea. Doing a scratch build makes way more sense if you want a FFJr. BUT if you're super committed I'll try to lay out the challenges and how they theoretically can be overcome.
  • First up, this post WON'T explain how to gut or ruin an original cab. I don't promote/condone converting a DK into a FFJr for example. Again, scratch build. But if you want to run FFJr in an already stripped cab or alongside your DK for example, this thread might help.
  • Second, who am I and why should you trust me? Well, to start, I've built one. I've also coded several in-universe games to go alongside it. I love Wreck-It Ralph and Fix It Felix Jr. I contributed to the community made version of the game (by Sjaak) way before the real Disney version leaked in 2012/2013. I've been following this stuff since the beginning!
Let's begin.
Challenge 1: The Software
There are many versions of FFJr. All sorts of community made, console style emulations. Things for Genesis, Atari 2600, Commodore 64, etc. The authentic, Disney run software though was a Windows .exe to be run on an x86 computer. If you want your cabinet to play the same game that was in Disney World, that's what you want. I won't link to it but it's easy to find. I will link to the Dragon King's wrapper for it, a piece of extra software that gives you some ease-of-life stuff like customizing controls. I consider it necessary to add to a cabinet.

Since you're stuck running Windows, that means no Raspberry Pis, no Linux, no SBC. This will be important later because connecting Windows (compared to, let's say a pi) to an arcade CRT ain't easy.
NOTE: Yes, I know you could emulate Windows with WINE and such to get around this, but then you're losing performance and adding extra headaches for no reason.

I've run FFJr on WinXP, Win 7, Win 8, and Win 10 without trouble. My most recent build used an Optiplex 7010 with a Radeon 7500 built in running Win10. You'll understand why I picked that computer/GPU combo later.

Challenge 2: The Controls
I'm sure everyone knows that getting controls from a PC to a MAME cabinet require an encoder of some sort. In our particular scenario, you're wanting to use an original Nintendo harness. That makes things tough. One thing, FFJr requires TWO action buttons, something people often forget and classic Nintendo cabinets don't have. The second button does a side-jump in FFJr and while not essential does contribute to gameplay. You can program the game to use 1 or 2 player start for that though I suppose.

I'd suggest using a j-pac which will get your controls to a JAMMA edge and then using another converter from JAMMA - Nintendo Edge Connector. Mike's arcade makes something that does this.

So, your connections would go PC -> J-PAC -> Mikes JAMMA PCB to Nintendo Cabinet adapter -> Harness

That board from Mike's Arcade does something else that's useful, it inverts the colors of your video signal which will be necessary to use an original Sanyo 20ez monitor. But that brings us to the next fun thing, video...

Challenge 3: Video Signal
This is covered in lots of places but you can't just physically connect a Windows PC to an arcade CRT and expect it to work. They require a 15khz signal. To avoid this problem, the REAL Felix cabs used a CRT monitor that accepted VGA input. But if you're running an original cab you're sitting on a Sanyo 20ez. Thankfully, if you're using Mike's Arcade adapter, it's inverting colors already (1 problem solved!). If you're using a j-pac, it will also help protect your monitor from too high of frequencies but it WON'T convert the signal to 15khz. For that, you basically have four options.
  1. Using a fairly modern Radeon video card and CRTEmudriver you can make VGA and certain DVI ports output a proper 15khz signal. This is my preferred method because you can use it in combination with SwitchRes to automatically switch your computer's resolution on a per-game basis (great if you're running mame). Fix It Felix wants to run on a 480x640 resolution but can work on others. <---This is the method I've used most recently and you can watch a demo here.
  2. Some modern NVidia GPUs support custom resolutions and timings. You can see a section on that here.
  3. ArcadeVGA video card, a special card by Ultimarc which can output 15khz. It's no longer being sold so I can't really recommend it.
  4. Older machines with older GPUs may be able to use a piece of software called Soft15Khz. I have no experience with this myself but it's primarily for WinXP and older machines.
Now you're asking, can't I just use a modern card with like HDMI out, but use a converter to CGA, and then wire that to my monitor? Maybe. There are devices out there that will convert VGA, HDMI, and more to a 15Khz CGA signal. But they also often introduce lag, weird colors, or more. I don't recommend them. That also won't go directly into a Sanyo monitor, you'll need to adapt one more. They also don't invert colors, so again, another adapter.

Next question I'm asked: Can't you invert colors in software? Yes, you can - but I've tried numerous methods and none of them seem to invert both Windows AND full-screen game colors. Meaning you have to run the game windowed mode, which isn't great for quality.

Challenge 4: Switching Back to Your PCB
You'll notice I skipped a variety of options for things like controls. I didn't recommend using a minipac or the cheap joystick encoders on ebay. That's because those require direct connections to the controls. The convoluted setup I presented instead allows you to use the original harness, letting you physically switch back/forth to an original pcb. You will almost definitely have to mess with monitor adjustments when you do so though. This method worked well enough for a fellow BYOACer

Another option would be using something like the Vector Labs switcher and he even makes a JAMMA to Nintendo switcher product so you wouldn't need the Mike's Arcade piece.

Challenge 5: Power
Lastly, getting any computer to play nice with original cabs cab be a challenge. Portions of original Nintendo cabs are wired for 100vac. Computers in the U.S. tend to expect 120vac (but may have an adjustment option) so just be smart about where you're wiring it to. There are clever ways to make them boot automatically and shutdown easily through a front-end but that's not really the purpose of this thread.

Summary
So, after all that, you might better understand why I tell people who want FFJr to build a dedicated cab. You'll have less compromises, can still use a CRT (but can use the convenience of a VGA based CRT making things much easier to wire) and it makes for an awesome MAME cabinet-in-hiding. But if you wanna put in the effort you absolutely can have a FFJr sitting next to that DK PCB :)

For Fun
And now for fun, a pic of my dad and I with my first scratch built Felix we did together started in 2014. Also, a game I coded (Wreck It Ralph) being run on an original DK cabinet with CRT. Good luck out there!
IMG_20180804_155851-768x432.jpgralph2.png
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