So where can I get a few 13000 uf 50v caps for Cinematronics power supplies?

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So where can I get a few 13000 uf 50v caps for Cinematronics power supplies?

So where can I get a few 13000 uf 50v caps for Cinematronics power supplies?
 
So he just used 3 larger radial caps instead of the 5 axial. I wonder if they are different value than the originals, if so, the restoration page doesn't say what value the new ones are.

I have 2 cinematronics games that I need to redo the power supplies on, the caps were the main thing I wanted to replace, but have been hesitant cause I don't know what caps to order (one is a condor and the other is an NPT)
 
So he just used 3 larger radial caps instead of the 5 axial. I wonder if they are different value than the originals, if so, the restoration page doesn't say what value the new ones are.

I have 2 cinematronics games that I need to redo the power supplies on, the caps were the main thing I wanted to replace, but have been hesitant cause I don't know what caps to order (one is a condor and the other is an NPT)

Blow the pics up. They are 22000 uF 35V
 
Hi

If you have the schematic, you can look at the values of the caps and the voltage ratings. The voltage should be about 2X what the power supply puts out. The values were 'standardized' around the end of the 70s beginning of the 80s and 13000uF is not a 'standard' value. (10000uF is and 12000uF is sort-of) Just pick the nearest value and a voltage rating at what it says on the schematic/cap or use the 2x rule. most electrolytics cpacitance ratings are +/- 20% anyway and 20+ year old ones were frequently +/-50% or +20%/-80% etc.. Close will be good enough.
Bob Roberts sells high value axial leaded ones and has some radial leaded ones for about $5.00 - $6.00 each. If you have several capacitors in parallel, (ie 3 each 6800uF caps all across the SAME POINT in the schematic) you can add the values together and replace them with one big one, (ie 3 each 6800uF = 1 each 20000uF) or replace them with a bunch of smaller ones, (ie 3 each 6800uF = 100 each 68uF) just make sure they have the same or higher voltage rating.

Kenneth
 
While we're on the subject of these, is this perhaps connected to a vector game? I've been asking for someone in the monitor section to measure the +/-25vdc at the molex to the monitor (unplugged), but nobody is stepping up. I have a monitor issue that may be related to the wrong voltage to the monitor (+/-32vdc) and I need to know if I should be fixing the power supply instead of the monitor...
 
While we're on the subject of these, is this perhaps connected to a vector game? I've been asking for someone in the monitor section to measure the +/-25vdc at the molex to the monitor (unplugged), but nobody is stepping up. I have a monitor issue that may be related to the wrong voltage to the monitor (+/-32vdc) and I need to know if I should be fixing the power supply instead of the monitor...

I just checked my solar quest with both power supplies I have and both the + and - 25 come out to +/-32.5 with the monitor unplugged. But just to let you know that I have never seen either one of my monitors work, so take that info for what it is worth. All of the power supply voltages check out with the game pcb attached, but the boards don't work. I am saving up to send them off to wysiwyg in canada to be repaired.
 
I think this one from Mouser will work: Mouser Part # 539-CGS50V13000

Looks like the only thing different is the overall length, but not by much. A little expensive at $22 a piece.
 
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