Snap lead CAP replacement question

toolguy

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I'm doing a full CAP replacement on a board I have. I just got
the CAPs and discovered the original 35V 10000uf and 25V 15000 CAPs on
the board are snap fit.

I got leaded, is it a big deal to have leaded and not snap fit CAP
leads?


Also, what's the best way to remove the snap fit lead CAPs? I
desoldered them but they still wont move, what's the trick?
Even tried wick and no luck. Don't want to keep heating the pads up and possibly destroy them.
Cut them apart and out?


I've soldered in many snap leaded CAPs but not replaced one for one.


Thanks,
 
Electrically, there is no difference between a snap fit cap and a standard radial lead cap.
Snap fit caps were originally used because they are less expensive and work well for automated assembly (these cap hold themselves in place for wave soldering). BUT, as you have found out, they can be a real bugger to replace at times and risk wrecking the board's pads. For this reason, I always recommend replacing them with standard radial lead caps.

When I last replaced, I sucked the solder out, flattened the leads ith needle nose while hot, cut off excess sticking through board and was then able to remove it fairly easily.

Ed
 
OK, thanks Ed!

Just got one out and did not damage the pad/traces. With it
unsoldered, I cut the case open. While cutting the case, both leads
broke free from what little solder was holding them in place.

And funny you mention straightening the leads. Every time I replace a non snap, with a snap lead, I always straighten them out before soldering. To me, the bent leads when pushed into the hole can damage the pads going in, so I always straighten them out.

Well 4 more to go, I will go at them with the most care too.
 
Last edited:
Board works 100%, no damage too!

Now I'm set for the next 20-25 years and no more reset issue.
 
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