Smoothing Befrore Priming

D_Harris

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,518
Reaction score
51
Location
Staten Island, New York
Smoothing Before Priming

I'm working on a particle board cabinet that original had vinyl on it. I used a heat gun to get it off, so it came off with a combination of heating and pulling, but as a result the spots where I had to use more heat are smoother, but where I was able to pull the vinyl off, microscopic pieces of the wood came with it and resulted in a more "rough* surface in those areas.

I sanded and then primed the cabinet. I can now see the variations on the surface much easier. I want to smooth the entire cabinet before I prime again and my sanders definitely will not do it, so I'll need to spread some filler of some sort over the entire face of both sides and I was wondering if you guys use Bondo, wood filler, or something else in this situation.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

Attachments

  • Primed 1.JPG
    Primed 1.JPG
    51.4 KB · Views: 91
  • Primed 2.JPG
    Primed 2.JPG
    81.9 KB · Views: 79
Last edited:
I would apply a "skim" coat of bondo and block sand it.
It is a bit more work but the best way to get a consistently even surface.
Just apply a real thin layer of bondo so you're not sanding forever.
 
Spray putty is what I use

1 coat of primer,let dry, then a few coats of spray putty, let dry, a few more coats, sand in between and after with 240 grit

Then prime, and sand with 600 grit

Smooth :)
 
See my Paperboy and Indiana Jones restoration threads linked in my sig. I used glazing putty for small spots. Easier and thinner to use than Bondo.
 
See my Paperboy and Indiana Jones restoration threads linked in my sig. I used glazing putty for small spots. Easier and thinner to use than Bondo.

But not nearly as strong,especially if a thick layer is needed.
Not good for that. It also is not as durable as bondo,could dent or chip easily even after painting.
I only use it for small pin holes and stuff like that.
I never used spray putty so not sure about that.
I would probably try the spray putty if only a thin layer is needed but if you need a thicker layer then bondo is the way to go.
 
microscopic pieces of the wood came with it and resulted in a more "rough* surface in those areas.

This is not a bulk fill situation where you're looking for strength. These are tiny areas that are a result of pulling. Sand everything down until its smooth to the touch, prime, sand, glazing putty, sand, prime, sand, look for any more voids, glazing putty again if necessary, prime, and sand again. Your surface will be glassy smooth.
 
For smaller stuff and even medium-sized stuff, I've had really good luck with Durham's Water Putty. http://www.waterputty.com/. It is simple to mix and goes on easier and quicker than bondo...imho. You don't have to wait too long before you can sand it smooth, and it really does sand smooth. I've used it on many cabinets, including ones that I eventually put vinyl on, and they turned out great.

Of course, everyone has their opinions and their favorites. I've just had really good luck with the water putty.
 
I had the SAME issue after removing the vinyl from a Tempest cabinet. I used oil based Kilz primer, let it dry a few days, then took a sander to it, sanding back down to the particle board, with the primer filling the voids/pinholes in the particleboard surface. Apply another coat of Kilz, again wait til cured, then hit it with the sander again, but sand just til slick.
 
For smaller stuff and even medium-sized stuff, I've had really good luck with Durham's Water Putty. http://www.waterputty.com/. It is simple to mix and goes on easier and quicker than bondo...imho. You don't have to wait too long before you can sand it smooth, and it really does sand smooth. I've used it on many cabinets, including ones that I eventually put vinyl on, and they turned out great.

Of course, everyone has their opinions and their favorites. I've just had really good luck with the water putty.

That's what I plan on using.
 
From the water putty website.

For repair jobs, DURHAM'S Water Putty fills voids like holes, cracks, and the like. Just fill the void completely until the putty bounces back. After the putty has set up, remove the excess. It adheres to the sides of the hole for permanence. That means DURHAM'S isn't designed to be spread in thin layers over large, smooth surfaces. For example, if a wooden door panel is weathered, replace it or sand it down. A thin layer of DURHAM'S spread over the panel will look great — but it may pop off with the first good slam of the door. Remember, DURHAM'S is meant to fill voids.
 
From the water putty website.

For repair jobs, DURHAM'S Water Putty fills voids like holes, cracks, and the like. Just fill the void completely until the putty bounces back. After the putty has set up, remove the excess. It adheres to the sides of the hole for permanence. That means DURHAM'S isn't designed to be spread in thin layers over large, smooth surfaces. For example, if a wooden door panel is weathered, replace it or sand it down. A thin layer of DURHAM'S spread over the panel will look great — but it may pop off with the first good slam of the door. Remember, DURHAM'S is meant to fill voids.

Yeah, I read the label, which is why I'm considering taking back the 4lbs can I just picked up for 8 bucks. (I might keep it for something else).

I couldn't find "spray putty".

How much Bondo or Glazing putty would it take to skim a cabinet anyway? And has anyone ever just used the cheaper wood filler?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Yeah, I read the label, which is why I'm considering taking back the 4lbs can I just picked up for 8 bucks. (I might keep it for something else).

I couldn't find "spray putty".

How much Bondo or Glazing putty would it take to skim a cabinet anyway? And has anyone ever just used the cheaper wood filler?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Spray putty, is filler, so could be called filler primer, or just spray filler

in AU this is it
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Spray-Putty-PK0010.aspx?pid=1630#Description

It's $18.50 here, so should be about $7.00 in the US :rolleyes:
 
We shoot our cabs with the same primer body shops use and then sand it with 180 grit and then 400 with a DA
 
Back
Top Bottom