Skee Ball Model H score problem

wrkey

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Picked this machine up yesterday and got her in the game room and working... kinda....

Here's the deal.. first if someone could tell me if my machine is truly and 'H' or is it an 'S'? Also, where can I buy (reasonable) the lamps for the numberic displays?

Now that is out of the way, My machine boots starts and counts the balls as it should. However, the scoring is a bit odd and the free game comes on at an easy 100 point position. When I got the machine I found one switch that was bad so I replaced it with one that I had in my spare parts. It not sees to 'recognize' the store and the 'out ball' switch is working as well. Here's what's odd, instead of scoring 10,20,30,40 and 50, it's scoring like 50, 150, 200, 250, 300, etc. Not sure if the numbers are right but you get the idea. I want the machine to score like the ring say. Also, where do I change the Free Game score? I've see other post where they refer to a thumb wheel but I can's seem to locate anything that would resemble a thumb wheel.

Well, enough for now. I've included a few photos of my machine to give you an idea of what I'm working with
 

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First, have you looked at your dip switches?
Second, disconnect all score switches and Start with just 10pts. Verify one by one until you find the culprit. Someone may have hooked up to NC rather than NO circuit on switch.
 
Update!

I found a manual online and determined how to program it correctly. It seems the previous owner had no idea how to work it properly as it was always in programming mode and never in game mode.

I've got everything working as it should and the switches adjust properly. All the switches are connected and working as expected for a switch. I had one bad switch but replaced it with the 'exact same switch' that I had in my spare parts from a bally pinball coin detector.

Now, here's the interesting part. Instead of scoring in increments of 10, it scores in increments of 50! This wouldn't be so bad except I only have a 3 digit score board and you can easily run past 990 points, even with the machine set to 6 balls. I don't see where you can set the score amount in programming mode. Any ideas here?

Thanks for the advice so far and thanks in advance for any future help!
 
Fixed it!

Ok... while searching the net for 50 point increment in skee ball, I found another forum thread that was talking about adding 100 pockets to an H model. The reply stated that they way the machine worked was that the 100 pockets added 50 first and then diverted the ball down the full ball track adding the other 50 points. Now, my machine does not have the 100 pockets... but there were multiple places to connect the switch string, 3 to be precise.. 2 that were done in series and one seperate.

It seems that the two in series are for the 100 pocket which is where my constant 50 add was coming from. So, I simply moved the plug to the single connection point and my machine now functions as it should! YEAH!!!

Now the question is.... do I find a 100 point board OR modify my board by cutting some holes and adding the tubes OR do I leave it alone and reminisent of the first versions?

Opinions?
 
Well, if you add the 100-pt holes, it's a 3.5" hole if I remember correctly. Still, you'd need the rubber circles to go there, and the bars underneath for the ball to roll to the main trough (if you don't already have it) with a switch for each.

I'd just leave it alone...
 
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I'm thinking I'll leave it for now.

One other question... my machine is missing the cap for the ball release fuse. Anyone have a dead CPU they could sell me the fuse cap off of?
 
Nice. Skee ball is a great game to have if you have the room.

Did you ever confirm if it is a model H or S?
 
Yes.. it is an 'S' model.

Also, the 110v solenoid used for the ball release is selling on eBay for about $35 or more plus shipping.. not sure what Skee Ball company wants for them. However, I did some research and determined that Grainger Industrial Supply also carries these exact same solenoid (by the same maker) and only charge $29. There's a Grainger located on the freeway between my work and my home! Part number is 4X240.

If I can get the fuse cap I should be able to get the ball release working. I wired the existing solenoid with a 'switched' extension cord so I can flip the switch and activate the release mechanism. It works as it should.. but extremely loud chatter. At least I know that a replacement solenoid will work.

When you coin up the machine the solenoid engages and releases the balls. Does anyone know when the solenoid is turned off? After X number of balls? At game over? This info will help me determine (once I get the fuse cap) if it's working properly.

Thanks!
 
I assume you have the rocker-arm release? Usually the solenoid engages to make the rocker-arm release the balls. After about 10 seconds (give or take 2 seconds) it releases. That gives enough time for all 9 balls to roll down.

Now, there are EPROM versions for single-ball play. That counts the balls until 9 have registered and then it releases the solenoid. I believe you switch between the single ball and 9 ball using the dip for selecting between 9 balls or 6 balls (dip #3?)...
 
It appears that my machine is a 9 ball but I only have 6 balls. Which some would say is quite remarkable... but I digress. I believe this because the distance between the rocker arm ends will fit 9 balls. Thus then the rocker is energized the front drops release the 9 in the middle and blocking any left behind it by the rear of the rocker arm.

I have seen a YouTube video that seems to indicate that the solenoid remains energized through out the game. Thus regulation of the balls released is done simply by the number of balls 'captured' between the rocker ends. But that video is odd because there is a 'stray ball' release at the end of every game. )Also it was more about the dog playing with machine than the machine itself.)

My simple mind says there are two possiblities. 1) the rocker stay energized through the whole game (the solenoid is a continous duty type) and 2) the solenoid is de-energized after the first ball (or two, or three) has passed the ball counter switch. Both of these methods would regulate the balls properly.

I guess I will learn more once I get the fuse cap that I need and be able to see it in action. Of course I would be hoping that it would work properly or else I really wouldn't know if it wasn't.

Anyway... here's a photo of the fuse cap I need. Anyone?
 

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The problem with it staying engaged throughout the game is that the balls will backup past the ball count switch and your game won't end because you never get to 9 (or 6?). Sometimes this happens because you have that dip switch on the wrong setting.

As for the fuse, you could call skeeball, but I'd probably just open it up, remove the base, solder a couple wires to it, put a quick-connect fuse holder on them (get one at Auto Zone), and then put my fuse in. Works the same way and is easier to find...
 
To echo what mod has already said, the solenoid only energizes for about 5-10 seconds, just enough time to let the 9 balls roll past the end of the rocker arm. The game keeps count of each ball played via a switch at the end of the lane where the balls roll back into the lane itself. If the solenoid remained energized during play, only 1 maybe 2 balls would be counted (due to the back end of the rocker blocking the balls from returning completely) and the game would not end.

You need 3 more balls.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I have been reluctant to pull the main control box out of the machine simply because I don't know much about it yet and it currently works... mostly.

I did manage to find a supplier for the fuse cap on ebay (greatcoinopgames) for about 12.50 which is an okay price considering I could keep the machine original and I wouldn't have to solder on the working board. Also he can provide me with the sand bags and original rubber bumpers for the 10 and 20 rings. So I think I'm gonna pay the few extra bucks and get parts from him.

I also have a question for anyone that may have one of these games. I have the Free Game switch set to allow for the free game and I have the score for a free game set in the options. However, it doesn't award the free game. When I got the game initially and didn't know how to 'program it' I was playing the games with the Program dip switch in the wrong position and it did award free games but at 100 points. Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem or seen something simaliar for free game settings on their machine?

I have a few pinballs and it always adds to the game when you can 'pop it' and win a free credit. Since I'm not awarding tickets, the free game would add some challenge and fun.

Thanks for everyone's advice to day, you folks have been most helpful!
 
I bought 2 sets of those bumpers for the score rings from the same guy, they're not original. If you want to save about $7-8, you can make them yourself. Just get some rubber feet for funiture/guitar amps, and cotter pins, that's all they are from that seller.
 
Those bumpers are what Skee Ball is selling now. When I was restoring my model H I ordered a set from Skee Ball and those are what they sent.

The original ones on mine seemed like rubber balls that were cut in half.
 
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I have 18 ICE versions of Skee Ball, 2 3 Across, 4 Dunk N Alien and they also use the 4X240 solenoid. ICE charges $69.95 for them modified to fit their game(they enlarge the pin hole). I get my solenoids from drillspot.com http://www.drillspot.com/products/42984/Dormeyer_2005-M-1_Laminated_Solenoid for $27.39 ea. I have bought many from them and they just use the local Grainger as their supplier and have not had any problems at all with them. Even got them the next day with the local Grainger about 12 minutes away.

The solenoid chatter is caused by the solenoid not in the correct position on my ICE balls. Might be similar with yours.
 
Took the advice provided here and did the following. I pulled the CPU box out and removed the fuse holder and soldered in an inline fuse. I also purchased a new 4x240 solenoid from Grainers Industrial Supply and put it in. The ball release works great now!

I also purchased a few 'stick on' door bumper stops from the clearance aisle at Wally World and put one above the 10 hole and one above the 20 hole. Works great!

I'm still perplexed by the free game thing though. Even lowered the Free Game threshold through the 'programming' mode but that didn't fix it either.

I also have lights on order to finish out the display!

I have a video I will be posting on YouTube very soon of the machine in action and my kittens taking part in the sport. For those of you who want to see more, flip on over to my personal website's projects page.

Thanks to everyone who provided their help and advice!
 
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