Lindsey
Well-known member
I would. And the fuse clips.
Silverball Mania - First Pin
- Thread starter orion3311
- Start date
I would. And the fuse clips.
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Finished the rectifier board for now - fuse clips are pretty tight and clean so I'm leaving them as is for now (plus I forgot to order new ones). I did clean up the fuses though. I don't think this thing has seen as hard of a life as some stuff on the net I've seen.
Replaced the 3 bridges with 30amp jobs, then finished the wiring mods for better grounds. Came out nice, and tested it out of game with voltages all spot on!
Replaced the 3 bridges with 30amp jobs, then finished the wiring mods for better grounds. Came out nice, and tested it out of game with voltages all spot on!
OP
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Well, I brought her home today, got it all put together, followed all the tests in the pinrepair manual and all the voltages were great, so I plugged everything in and fired it up. It booted! No smoke, no blown fuses. One display seems to be flaking out (bad decoder chip maybe?) but I can live with that for now.
And then the problems started LOL...
Long story short I have a fleeting suspicion this thing has an incorrect rom in it or something. It boots, but the game sound starts immediately. It also seems to start with 20+ credits on it., but it does count down credits to maybe it just stored them I dunno. I have to check the dip switches it might be set to 11 credits per coin.
Anyhow, the main problem is that the solenoids are completely wrong. Going through the self test to the solenoid check, and only 2-3 solenoids are proper. Right pop bumper is kicking when the outlane kicker should be, the right side bumper kicks for both the left and right sides, and the left pop bumper doesn't kick at all.
In game play, the outlane kicker doesn't work at all (so no ball comes out), the left pop bumper activates the center pop bumper solenoid, the center (ball kicker-back-outer-thingy) never raises up but the kicker solenoid on it kicks.
The lights seem to be working properly I think, so I'm almost wondering if just a solenoid rom is wrong or something? All solenoids read roughly 11 ohms so I dont think any are shorted or have blown transistors.
Eagerly awaiting enlightenment from the pinball wizards...just to re-iterate I think this has a replacement MPU board in it so I'm wondering if there is an improper chip in it.
And then the problems started LOL...
Long story short I have a fleeting suspicion this thing has an incorrect rom in it or something. It boots, but the game sound starts immediately. It also seems to start with 20+ credits on it., but it does count down credits to maybe it just stored them I dunno. I have to check the dip switches it might be set to 11 credits per coin.
Anyhow, the main problem is that the solenoids are completely wrong. Going through the self test to the solenoid check, and only 2-3 solenoids are proper. Right pop bumper is kicking when the outlane kicker should be, the right side bumper kicks for both the left and right sides, and the left pop bumper doesn't kick at all.
In game play, the outlane kicker doesn't work at all (so no ball comes out), the left pop bumper activates the center pop bumper solenoid, the center (ball kicker-back-outer-thingy) never raises up but the kicker solenoid on it kicks.
The lights seem to be working properly I think, so I'm almost wondering if just a solenoid rom is wrong or something? All solenoids read roughly 11 ohms so I dont think any are shorted or have blown transistors.
Eagerly awaiting enlightenment from the pinball wizards...just to re-iterate I think this has a replacement MPU board in it so I'm wondering if there is an improper chip in it.
OP
OP
And the plot thickens...
There's 9316A's in U1 and U2. U6 is a 9316B,and is Bally Part # 720-37, which is for SPACE INVADERS. Kinda happy about that, although it seems the U6 chip for SBM can work in SI, this particular part # is slightly different and seems to be two distinctly different images when downloaded and compared.
Anywhoo..so I yank that chip, go to read it, and it won't read as a 2716. Put it back in and the game boots up. Leave it out and it doesn't boot, soo I'm assuming its really a 9316A mislabeled. Even more fun!
Last but not least, tried burning a 2716 with the proper image, but it won't work in U6. Pulled and verified it again, but again I guess U6 is jumpered for a 9316A. Ca-rap.
2am again...time to hit the sack.
There's 9316A's in U1 and U2. U6 is a 9316B,and is Bally Part # 720-37, which is for SPACE INVADERS. Kinda happy about that, although it seems the U6 chip for SBM can work in SI, this particular part # is slightly different and seems to be two distinctly different images when downloaded and compared.
Anywhoo..so I yank that chip, go to read it, and it won't read as a 2716. Put it back in and the game boots up. Leave it out and it doesn't boot, soo I'm assuming its really a 9316A mislabeled. Even more fun!
Last but not least, tried burning a 2716 with the proper image, but it won't work in U6. Pulled and verified it again, but again I guess U6 is jumpered for a 9316A. Ca-rap.
2am again...time to hit the sack.
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Curiosity got the best of me..re-jumpered the board for a 2716 @ U6 - now it boots and works again, but still the same problems with the solenoids. Blah!
Also found out I can't get the credits to work properly...have it jumpered for one credit/coin for all chutes, and they all do 9 credits (switch 5 maybe stuck on).
Also found out I can't get the credits to work properly...have it jumpered for one credit/coin for all chutes, and they all do 9 credits (switch 5 maybe stuck on).
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A little sleep deprivation never hurt anyone...maybe..
Found Pb0 not pulsing (pin 23 on big 74LS154 on solenoid driver board. Traced it back to the MPU board...pin 10 pulsing but not at R97 near J4 on MPU board. Removed U11 on MPU board - pin 10 is broken off LOL. That explains that. I saw the pulse from the stump thats left lol.
Now I gotta figure out where to get one of these...6820?
Found Pb0 not pulsing (pin 23 on big 74LS154 on solenoid driver board. Traced it back to the MPU board...pin 10 pulsing but not at R97 near J4 on MPU board. Removed U11 on MPU board - pin 10 is broken off LOL. That explains that. I saw the pulse from the stump thats left lol.
Now I gotta figure out where to get one of these...6820?
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OP
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Ended up soldering a resistor leg to the missing pin, and the game now works 99% - just one dead solenoid (left bumper) to look into but the sounds are now correct and following the dip switches, the pop bumpers, drain kicker, and outlane kicker work properly, and the lights are good.
Lindsey
Well-known member
Nice work! I forgot about this thread but it looks like you didn't need help anyway 
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Yeah I just gotta figure out that one bumper. Still going to get replacement PIA chips as that one was in sad shape. At least I know this thing works now.
Lindsey
Well-known member
I would check the driver transistor first. Try grounding the metal tab of the driver transistor for that solenoid. If it energizes you know you've got a problem with the driver, pre-driver, etc...
OP
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Sweet thats an easy test.
One other thing...this may be because I still have to replace the female side of the molexes at the rectifier board, but all the lights flicker when you hit a flipper..is there a fix for that?
One other thing...this may be because I still have to replace the female side of the molexes at the rectifier board, but all the lights flicker when you hit a flipper..is there a fix for that?
Lindsey
Well-known member
Replacing the rectifier board connectors should help. Also take a look at the ground connections on the lamp driver board (connector J4 pins 1-2 and 11-12).
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Figured Id detail this in case anyones interested, but in checking out that dead slingshot, i also noticed the rollover next to it was dead as well. Long story short I found several dead switches all related to one wire on the switch matrix. Traced that one back to U10 on the mpu and upon pulling that found another bad pin.
And while handling it..2 or 3 more.
I ended up putting it on life support by putting the chip in a socket and soldering up all the broken legs.
Machine now works 100%!!!!
Few flaky light sockets but other than that prob played 50 games on it! Why didnt anyone tell me vids were just the entry drug???
And while handling it..2 or 3 more.
I ended up putting it on life support by putting the chip in a socket and soldering up all the broken legs.
Machine now works 100%!!!!
Few flaky light sockets but other than that prob played 50 games on it! Why didnt anyone tell me vids were just the entry drug???
Lindsey
Well-known member
What kind of dealers would we be if we did that?
Good job on the repairs. Stuff like that can be tricky to figure out.
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HOLY CRAP these things are a lot of work!! MAaaan spent the whole day doing Laundry (and in between) working on the playfield. Worked on one section at a time, pulled all the little red chess pieces off, cleaned with alcohol, polished with novus, then cleaned and polished the playfield, as well as replaced bulbs, rubbers, and cleaned the plastics. My hands were pretty tired after oh, the 4th HOUR but all in all I managed to pull it off despite my bad ADD and its lookin pretty sweet!
Kinda funny that when I first got it, I only bought new pop bumper caps (because 2 were broken) but decided against the bumper caps because I wasn't sure if it would work or be worth it. Well..Marco is getting another order tonight I love this thing!! Can't stop playing it!!
I also opened up the coin door, put new bulbs and plastic inserts in to replace one that someone drilled through for a credit switch. They also cut out the middle light socket so I moved the blank plate there and have the 2 slots on either side working. This will run on tokens like all my other games. That cleaned up and the new inserts look amazing! I can't believe how well this thing is coming together, even though its taking 2934823423 hours worth of work.
PS - Why did arcade games never use coin doors like Bally used? These things are awesome the way they opened up!!
Here's the pics again, mostly the past 2 days when I did most of the work: http://www.junknet.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6668&g2_page=4
Kinda funny that when I first got it, I only bought new pop bumper caps (because 2 were broken) but decided against the bumper caps because I wasn't sure if it would work or be worth it. Well..Marco is getting another order tonight
I love this thing!! Can't stop playing it!!I also opened up the coin door, put new bulbs and plastic inserts in to replace one that someone drilled through for a credit switch. They also cut out the middle light socket so I moved the blank plate there and have the 2 slots on either side working. This will run on tokens like all my other games. That cleaned up and the new inserts look amazing! I can't believe how well this thing is coming together, even though its taking 2934823423 hours worth of work.
PS - Why did arcade games never use coin doors like Bally used? These things are awesome the way they opened up!!
Here's the pics again, mostly the past 2 days when I did most of the work: http://www.junknet.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6668&g2_page=4
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Lindsey
Well-known member
That's for sure. Wait until you spend 10 hours just fixing lamp sockets. haha!
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Thats ok it decided to spite me and lock up...only 2 flashes now. Thankfully i was able to email in and have a 5101 added to the order.
Lindsey
Well-known member
You should consider replacing the 5101 with NVRAM so you don't need batteries any more. PM me if you want to buy one.
Also, you might just have a bad socket. Worth looking at.
Also, you might just have a bad socket. Worth looking at.
OP
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I tried reseating the chip and that didn't help. It was on and working while I spent some time on the net, then I went back to play one last game before hitting the sack and it coined up but then locked up. Power cycling it only gets two flashes not including the flicker.
I'm interested in the nvram, but I already ordered a 5101 through marco to see if thats the culprit. It was the first time I left it on for that long so it mighta been on its way out. I don't have any batteries connected at all either...removed the one that was on there.
I'm interested in the nvram, but I already ordered a 5101 through marco to see if thats the culprit. It was the first time I left it on for that long so it mighta been on its way out. I don't have any batteries connected at all either...removed the one that was on there.
Lindsey
Well-known member
What does the MPU look like? If there's corrosion you'll need to decide how you want to fix it. There are a couple of options.
