Shrinking Filler

D_Harris

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I'm about take my circular saw to the front edge of a Ms. Pac-man cabinet so I can add in a plywood replacement piece. The original "point" has been worn down over three decades were people grabbed the cabinet as they were playing the game.

I'll be using my good cabinet as a template and will cut a spline and glue in the replacement pieces on both sides. (Then probably spread wood filler into the seams).

I also intend to use wood filler in the areas where there is missing veneer at the edges.

Now I know that wood filler tends to shrink and I usually have to spread some more in after drying, but I was curious if anyone here has experienced any shrinking issues more[b/] then a couple weeks after application?

Bondo is too much of a pain to work with. (At least the Bondo-Glass that I have). I do have EVERCOAT Metal Glaze, EVERCOAT Metal-2-Metal, but have never used those products before. (The EVERCOAT Formula 27 I have hardened in the can).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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Whereas I can't comment on any of the Evercoat products you've mentioned, I can say that wood filler, in any bulk amount, probably won't be a great idea. It'll scratch easily, will have very little compressive strength, will chip easily on a corner, and will love any drop of water.
 
I'm not building up a corner with the wood filler. And being scratched or getting wet wouldn't be an issue, since obviously I'll be priming and painting afterwards.

Not much strength is needed, since all I need to do is cover seams and square edges.

I'm more concerned with dimensional changes occurring long after the reparation is complete.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Bondo is too much of a pain to work with. (At least the Bondo-Glass that I have). I do have EVERCOAT Metal Glaze, EVERCOAT Metal-2-Metal, but have never used those products before.



Ok.. heres where auto stuff shines. Wood filler blows. Poor adhesion, shrinkage, fuck that stuff..

Either use bondo or whatever filler you decide on for rough filling. Even regular old bondo is fine for ROUGH filling. where youre just filling th ebig spots and building the surface up(but not all the way up) for a" better than bondo" rough body filler, i do love evercoat fillers. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/eve...p-10287.aspx?gclid=CLCtwMSLlLQCFQeDnQodBjsANA

Finish the last coat or two with that evercoat metal glaze you have. That stuff spreads butter smooth, sands easily, the finished product is super smoooth.... Its nice for filling air bubbles you tend to get when you sand into regular bondo or rough fill filler, and it does a great job or filling small imperfections nicks, scratches elseware, and sands super easy.

I love it so much id use it for big filling too but its just too runny for that.
 
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before you start filling make sure to hit that wood with a 40 to 60 grit grinder or 80grit on a sander. You want to give that filler some rough but non weathered wood to grab onto.
 
Wonder if anyone has said F! this noise! and laid down a lair of fine mesh fiberglass, resin, and then gelcoated the sucker. :bigok:

Yeah just being silly....it's early.
 
BONDO is the way to go!

Use Bondo and take off excess immediately so you have less sanding. If you need to add corners cut new wood. I like the Gel coat idea :) A metal Flake Blue Ms. Stacie would rule with Willis Slutty Ms. Pac sideart.

Michael
 
I agree that wood filler is for nicks or finish nail holes, not for that type of wood loss. Either stitch in new wood or use Bondo, but any filler should 'really' just be used as filler, not to build up edges, etc.., although we do it sometimes to an extent.
 
Ok.. heres where auto stuff shines. Wood filler blows. Poor adhesion, shrinkage, fuck that stuff..

Either use bondo or whatever filler you decide on for rough filling. Even regular old bondo is fine for ROUGH filling. where youre just filling th ebig spots and building the surface up(but not all the way up) for a" better than bondo" rough body filler, i do love evercoat fillers. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/eve...p-10287.aspx?gclid=CLCtwMSLlLQCFQeDnQodBjsANA

Finish the last coat or two with that evercoat metal glaze you have. That stuff spreads butter smooth, sands easily, the finished product is super smoooth.... Its nice for filling air bubbles you tend to get when you sand into regular bondo or rough fill filler, and it does a great job or filling small imperfections nicks, scratches elseware, and sands super easy.

I love it so much id use it for big filling too but its just too runny for that.

Ideally, I'd like to only have to put one coat on. Like I mentioned it is only seams and piece of lost veneer at the edges that I'm repairing.

But like I mentioned Bondo was a pain when I was trying to fill in a hole in a previous cabinet. I filled the front of that cabinet with "Bondo-Glass". (http://bondo.com/bondo-glass-fiberglass-reinforced-filler-274.html). It started to gel quickly making it difficult judging and getting a smooth surface at the right height. It then wouldn't harden completely, so I went over it with wood filler so the repair is a combination of Bondo and wood filler. After using my finishing sander and 80 grit sandpaper and then spray painting I can tell the area is still a little raised. (And the Bondo inside the same hole on the inside of the cabinet is still somewhat "rubbery" after a couple of months).

Evercoat Formula 27 is also my first and favorite filler and I would have used that if I had it. So I'll try the "Evercoat Metal Glaze".

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
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