should I drill in RUN buttons in original MK1?

nate1981s

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OK I can't decide. I have MK1,2,MK3U in a original MK1 cabinet. The cab is in OK shape. I retubed and recapped the monitor and put in new buttons and joysticks. The cab art is maybe a 6/10 so most of you guys would probably replace it but it does not bother me. What does is that I would have to drill the RUN buttons through the original CPO which has metal sheet right underneath. My plan was to buy a replacement CPO and if it is 100% the same I would drill in the RUN buttons with the idea that if I wanted to put it back original I could but I still need some convincing either way. It is not possible to really play MK3u right now since I do not have the run button and it is my favorite even over MK2.
 
I am about to restore a MK1 cabinet and I am thinking about using an alternate layout so I can put UMK3 in there also. I am trying to get a hold of the original vectorized version of this layout so I can get it printed.



The old links to it were on megaupload which is now gone but i'm sure someone over at BYOAC still has them. Will post it if I get it.
 
OK I can't decide. I have MK1,2,MK3U in a original MK1 cabinet. The cab is in OK shape. I retubed and recapped the monitor and put in new buttons and joysticks. The cab art is maybe a 6/10 so most of you guys would probably replace it but it does not bother me. What does is that I would have to drill the RUN buttons through the original CPO which has metal sheet right underneath. My plan was to buy a replacement CPO and if it is 100% the same I would drill in the RUN buttons with the idea that if I wanted to put it back original I could but I still need some convincing either way. It is not possible to really play MK3u right now since I do not have the run button and it is my favorite even over MK2.

no

un-molested panels are becoming a very hard thing to find.

if you were closer i'd more than gladly trade you one of the many molested mk1 panels i have.
 
no

un-molested panels are becoming a very hard thing to find.

if you were closer i'd more than gladly trade you one of the many molested mk1 panels i have.

This is true. Which is why I have had to make my own. Wood at Lowes is not cheap. Plus the tools to make the T-molding grooves.
 
I wouldn't drill into an existing good panel for it. My panel has been bastardized with a Golden Tee. I think its more work than its worth to save it. I am just making a new panel for it. Since I am using a repro overlay anyways I see no problems using that one. It retains the theme but allows me to use the later MKs in it also.

I'm not about to drill a hole in my original MK2 panel to do it and I don't see myself wanting a dedicated MK3 cab.
 
This is true. Which is why I have had to make my own. Wood at Lowes is not cheap. Plus the tools to make the T-molding grooves.

it's not so much the wood or tools but the metal overlay that is next to impossible to replace. I've talked to a few people about reproducing them but the cost is far to high to make a profit as well as keep pricing cheap.


______ (name excluded so he doesn't get bombed with pm's) actually agreed to making repro wooden panels if we could get him an un molested one but that only covers the wood portion and he can only machine on one side which means either the area for the t-nuts and dust washer goes or the recessing for the button nuts).
 
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The got rid of the metal overlay on mine. I'm pretty positive that I can have the metal overlay fabricated here without much issue at all. The original CP is the exact same layout as the MK2 one so I can use the lexan as a template for the metal.

So how was it originally done? CPO affixed to the metal overlay and that was set over the plywood or was the metal also glued to the wood?
 
thanks for the input guys.

I like the idea of the MK4 panel, but not for $70 and has no buttons/joysticks and screw holes cut into it. Do MK3 panels come up ever?

If not I think I will build one eventually. I really wanted to avoid it but I think it would be terrible to cut the RUN button in the original.

Can someone contact me if they have a MK3/4 panel for sale that is better condition? I think I would have gone for the one for sale if it would line up with the modified MK1 CPO with the run button but I assume it will not. Can someone confirm this?

thanks guys.
 
Mine I think is a early US one as it has no lexan and has the CPO glued directly to the metal overlay then plywood under that. Also, the buttons are labeled with english words and not the pose pictures which I do not like.
 
The got rid of the metal overlay on mine. I'm pretty positive that I can have the metal overlay fabricated here without much issue at all. The original CP is the exact same layout as the MK2 one so I can use the lexan as a template for the metal.

So how was it originally done? CPO affixed to the metal overlay and that was set over the plywood or was the metal also glued to the wood?

originally from the factory it was the wood panel then the metal plate with the cpo attached and normally lexan over that. the metal plate has studs and sometimes threaded fittings for the sticks (threaded fittings were mainly on later games ex mk2/3/ki)

cutting the holes in the metal isn't the hard part it's welding on the studs/fittings and in the exact spots.
 
I'd be willing to build you a new panel with button holes and plexi to trade for the original. Even a little cash your way too if you want. If you can get or show me where to get a decent mk3/4 cpo to use for the layout when drilling the holes. Just a small suggestion.

Wouldn't mind throwing this on my MK 1 and using the metal control panel from my MK 1 for my MK 2. Man that's confusing as all hell. :)
 
Here are the pics of my CPO.

Are these really that rare and if I can find a MK4 or UMK3 panel will it fit in with no modification?

Does anyone know what the MK4 or UMK3 panel would go for other than the $70 one here for sale?
 

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all of them are hard to come by, $70 isn't a terrible price if it's in mint shape, and i wouldn't want someones old sticks and buttons as they get warn and pretty nasty.

there's only 2 real differences between the panels will be the run button and the hinge (or lack of one when it comes to mk1) 2 3 and 4 all had a hinge instead of an "L" bracket. 4 obviously has the start buttons in a different position but that's besides the point.

BTW: your panel looks really nice and clean/unfaded, only down side i see is no lexan but it looks like one of the ones that came from the factory without it. I would never drill that panel, hold out for a 3 or 4 panel or one that's already been drilled.
 
If you find a MK3 or 4 panel and want to sell that MK1 panel, let me know. I would snatch that up in a heartbeat. I would just keep my machine all original if I could find an original CP.
 
Heres a few pics of the Mortal Kombat 2 control panel I built from scratch. Complete with plexiglas and t-nuts under the cpo for the joystick bolts so they're not sticking out on top. Like I said, be willing to build you one with whatever button layout you'd like provided you have a cpo for me to get the holes lined up for drilling.

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Nice panel.

How much do you think it would cost to make a MK1 with run button like that?

Any chance they are going to reprint that MK1 CPO with the run button?
 
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