Should I cao my WG K4900?

i86time

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Should I cap my WG K4900?

I'm usually an 'if it ain't broke...' kinda person, but.... So, I did a complete teardown on my TRON to have it painted. With the monitor out, should I cap it? I don't really have any major problems, but there are two issues.
1. There is the slightest of jitter. This is only noticeable at the end of the light cycle level when everything has stopped.
2. I can't get it to focus perfectly. It gets close, but if I keep rotating the knob it starts to get blurry again. I read this could also be due to burn, which the monitor does have. I have another TRON that has no burn and the focus is spot on. In one post Dokert metioned that bad focus could mean the flyback is going out, but it's been like this for the whole year I've owned it.

So, if I should do the cap kit, should I also replace the filter cap while I'm at it. What about the flyback?
 
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I'd do all of the above if it's a game you are going to keep and never think about it ever again after that.

no brainer to me.

I did the works on my tron monitor.
 
Like stated above, do it all if your keeping the game and your doing the full restore that it sounds like your doing. It is the final details like this that make the game leaps and bounds better.
 
I figured as much. I just worry doing things like this, especially with all the "I tried to fix X and now Y is wrong" posts. Fingers crossed.
 
If it's all original, I'd cap it.

I'd at least examine the board, likely there are crappy solder joints from years of use.
 
OK, so I looked over the chasis and I notice that C207 has legs through the holes, but no cap is there. In the K4900 manual it lists it as 0.022 uF 100V mylar cap. Where there any bulletins put out that called for the removal of this cap, or should I replace it when I do the kit? For that matter, where there any bulletins that called for the removal/replacement of other components?
 
So I'm finally getting around to this today. C207 is mounted on the other side of the board, so mystery solved there. Everything seems pretty straightforward except for the flyback. The original had a pin/connector for the wire that goes to the neckboard (not the one the mounts directly to the socket). The replacement only has a simple wire. I have the connector on the original wire a good tug and it doesn't seem like it will come off easily. What kind of connector is this and can it be found anywhere? If not, what's the typical procedure for this? Remove the pin on the neckboard and solder the wire directly to the board? Butt-splice the old wire with the connector to new wire? Thanks for any pointers.
 
pics of what you are talking about.

but:
splicing it is fine.
or
soldering it is fine.

if it is the dag or the non focus wire(cant remember what it is called at the moment)

witch ever is easier for you.

Peace
Buffett
 
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A picture would probably help. It's on the wire that comes out near the 'Screen' control (bottom of flyback). The top wire is from the new flyback, the bottom is the connector on the old one.
IMG_4842_1.jpg


Edit: I thought the ground wire(s) was the black wire that's wrapped through the hole in the corner of the neckboard near the neck socket (i.e the wires I have to remove so that I can pull the tabbed part of the socket off to insert the new focus wire). Is that wrong?
 
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no.

put the black wire back on the corner of the neck board.

you can solder that red wire back on the neck or splice it on so you can use the connector.

either way is fine.

Peace
buffett
 
OK, I finished up replacing the caps and the filter cap and everything looks good. The colors look a bit brighter, but that just might be becasue I have the diffuser off. It still doesn't look like it has perfect focus, so I will end up doing the flyback. I'll probably end up soldering the red wire directly to the board, one less thing to worry about. Thanks for all the pointers.
 
OK, one more thing. I saw a small slot on the end of the connector and using a 1mm flathead I was able to back the wire out and this was on the end. What type of connector is this? Thanks.
IMG_4843_1.jpg
 
You just refuse to let me do it the hard way. New flyback is on. I had to center all the cutoff and drive pots to get decent color. Most of the cutoffs were maxed out before, must mean something has improved.

I still can't get perfect focus out of this thing, but I'm doubting it was ever due to the flyback.The dimmer I make the picture, the sharper the focus gets. But on TRON I have to up the brighntess a bit to slightly see the grid on the gridbugs and lightcycle levels. When I do that, the picture becomes a bit fuzzy. Even alternating the color drives/black level can't get it perfect. On my other TRON it has great focus, but the colors are dimmer and the red is a bit orange-ish. I bet that if I adjusted it out, it would look like this monitor. On another note that damn annoying whine is gone. Fingers crossed for another 30 years.
 
by chance have you cleaned all the tube faces your testing this chassis on.
or the tube you have it on.

just a thought.

Peace
Buffett
 
Yes, everything is clean. The focus is there, it's just when I adjust the brightness to the proper levels it loses the detail (which I guess is normal, to an extent). Maybe I am expecting too much. I can't recall seeing another TRON with that level of sharpness, but I never really paid attention before.
 
Just an FYI if your like me and like to experiment with things. While you've got the chassis out, move the fuse to a better location with a better fuse holder.

One day, you may thank yourself for doing it.
 
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