Short circuit? Static? causing monitor to flash.

streetfighterken

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I'm not sure if this is general or monitors. I am brand new to arcade ownership.

I just received my first arcade cab (Street Fighter II) I bought on eBay. When it gets warmed up, it starts popping and I can actually see flashes of blue light around the tube when I look inside from the coin door. It's intermittent but happens often enough to be a problem. Other than that, the game works great. It does have a brand new power supply.

I need direction on what this is and what needs to be done to get it fixed.

Here's a video of it: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/iz2xw4uoj4qxoek/6MNB4AuFbV

Thanks
 
That would likely be high voltage shooting from your anode wire/cup grounding to your frame. Check to make sure your anode wire/cup are firmly attached. BE CAREFUL. Even turned off for a long period of time, many older monitors still carry a huge charge and if you stick your finger in there you'll get a REAL NICE zap. Learn how to properly discharge your monitor... then check your anode wire/cup.

DO NOT RUN IT LIKE THAT.

EDIT: For the layperson... the anode wire is the large wire running from the flyback to the back of your picture tube. It's usually red and has a "suction cup" looking thing at the end where it goes in the monitor.
 
Thanks. I followed the discharge instructions. I removed the anode cup, cleaned it and all around the glass, put it back on, and sealed it with silicone caulk (my spur of the moment idea. hope it's ok.)

BUT now I have no Red (see photo). I have tried various settings of the Red Cutoff and Drive knobs, but no use. My research now tells me that the "cap" needs to be replaced. Is this my only option?

This is a K7193 btw.
 

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Update: It still sparks and now I have no red. Further research indicates that my flyback may be bad. But that probably won't fix the red issue. I've been researching for hours and it sounds like there are several causes for no red. I'm a complete n00b and I now feel over my head. I live in Boise and I can't find any repair shops. I feel like I just threw $2000 away.
 
Update: It still sparks and now I have no red. Further research indicates that my flyback may be bad. But that probably won't fix the red issue. I've been researching for hours and it sounds like there are several causes for no red. I'm a complete n00b and I now feel over my head. I live in Boise and I can't find any repair shops. I feel like I just threw $2000 away.

You spent $2000 on a Street Fighter II?? Well, they always say your first game is your most expensive game...
 
Well, it was supposed to be "restored" and "working perfectly". It does look and operate well -- new glass, power supply, and joysticks. I figured the premium price would help me avoid these sorts of problems. $500 of it was shipping cross-country.
 
if you need it repaired i can do it for you.

click the link in my cig for my YouTube videos to see what i do.

the K7000 series is what i repair the most.

Peace
Buffett
 
Update: It still sparks and now I have no red. Further research indicates that my flyback may be bad. But that probably won't fix the red issue. I've been researching for hours and it sounds like there are several causes for no red. I'm a complete n00b and I now feel over my head. I live in Boise and I can't find any repair shops. I feel like I just threw $2000 away.

Please tell me you didn't pay $2000 for a Street Fighter...

The silicone was NOT a good idea...

The red missing could be as simple as the connector not making contact or a cold solder joint.

If it's still "ticking" like that it could be the fly (correct me if I am wrong folks)... but I do think that when a fly develops a pinhole it just goes out... massive electricity...not just an intermittent "tick"....

Take a picture of your monitor chassis (the PCB)... so we can see what you're dealing with.

Take a breath... monitors can be rebuilt pretty cheaply. I had a 33" monster that had massive pincushion issues I was stressing on... a $15.00 rebuild kit and it looks beautiful.
 
Well, it was supposed to be "restored" and "working perfectly". It does look and operate well -- new glass, power supply, and joysticks. I figured the premium price would help me avoid these sorts of problems. $500 of it was shipping cross-country.

I am sorry to inform you... even if it was working perfectly... you got screwed. I've not paid $1K for any of my machines let alone $2K. ($1,500 + $500 shipping). Also, as an FYI for the future... NAVL will ship TWO cabinets from the east coast to the west for that $500...(or there abouts).

First thing is to NOT PANIC. Monitor issues are common and usually pretty easily fixed.

Take a picture of your chassis so we know what monitor you're working with.
 
Also... how comfortable are you with soldering/desoldering.

At $1500 it BETTER be a newer monitor in there... but you never know... hence the reason we need a photo.
 
It was $417 from Philadelphia to Boise (NAVL via STI), but I had to pay an extra $100 because the seller's street was too narrow to get a truck into; they had to get an extra guy and haul it down the street.

I am a novice in the greenest sense. Maybe you wouldn't pay nearly as much, but I'm not planning to be a collector and I wasn't planning to fix a machine I thought had already been "restored". My guess is the cold environment during transport stressed the chassis, which obviously has not been restored.

Also, I live in Boise. How many Street Fighter II's are ready and available in Boise? I do not know. I didn't know how to look. I've had my heart set on one day owning a SFII cabinet for 20 years, and now I was finally able to afford one. Joke's on me I guess, but I didn't know any better.

Now I know. This is a great learning experience and I'm thankful I found this community. We all needed to learn once, right?

Update: It is a K7193. I'm sending the chassis to Buffett. After the rebuild, I'll know for sure if it's the chassis or monitor. Not quite comfortable yet getting into it myself. From the looks of inside the cab, it is all original except for the new power supply and joysticks.
 
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Look bro... not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to give you some information. In the future, check locally for large machines like this. There happens to be a Street Fighter 2 on the boise craigslist right now for $465. Granted, it's the wrong cabinet (by far) but it's still a working Street Fighter 2.

What is the seller saying about this situation? He'd be the first person I'd talk to. Especially at that price, I hope you got it retail and with a warranty? That said, you're going to want to remove the silicone.
 
Holy crap! You got so ripped off! And not a little, or even a lot, you were totally hoodwinked!

A street fighter 2 cabinet sells for under $200 on craigslist every day and those are working ones.

I hope is at least in a proper cabinet like a dynamo and not in some pac man conversion.
 
The pic is up top. It's a proper Dynamo 25" cab. It looks nice. At $1,500 I am hoping it's retail and does carry a warranty.
 
As mentioned the missing red is most likely a bad solder joint on the header pins, pretty common, Buffet should have that all fixed up for ya.

As for the popping/flashing...make sure the tubes "dag" ground is attached. Typically a ground wire leading to the neckboard so you'll have to check this out once you get the chassis back.
Without it they tend to build up static electricity on the back of the tube and it "releases" to ground (ie pops and flashes). Watching the tube from the back in the dark is a clear way of telling.
 
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