Shoot the Bear

I lost 50VDC to the coin box. R11 on the amplifier was defective.
 

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The electric furnace that I originally purchased was listed as "For Sale" on E-bay. He actually did not have it and complained of supply chain issues. I can understand that, but he should not have an actual listing of one "For Sale". After waiting on him, I cancelled that order and purchased this one. I am waiting on the sand that is supposed to be delivered today.

I should have been purchasing AL at all of the garage sales that we go to. Retail AL at the hardware stores is expensive. This stuff from Goodwill is cheaper.
 

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I used headlight polishing compound on my overlay. The second one is the polished one. The camera does not do it justice. That thing is pretty in normal light.
 

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It has been a long day with my furnace. I kept thinking that I was not getting it hot enough. I was blowing through the sand and making an imperfect mold. I finally turned it down and got a decent mold. I went to do a second and found out that my metal was too cold. This set-up sure is finicky.

I will put it on the lathe at work and clean it up some more.
 

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Nice work. I admire people with practical fabricating skills. Wish I had 'em!
Don't cut yourself short. I started with an idea or seen something that I thought I could make use of. I took a stab at it. It did not come easy or did I get it right on the first try. I just leaped in and went for it. I might have found a gear that I could use off of the shelf. This was more satisfying.
 
Now I have to pin and loctite it. This was not my idea. I was going to use my working one for a sand cast and saw that it had been modified this way. I searched for a 15 tooth .710 dia gear and a spur gear showed up on McMaster-Carr. They were very proud of it but I bought it anyway.

I bored out my gear to 3/8. I machined down the gear to 15/32 and bored out my pot metal piece also to 15-32.

This is a link for that gear.
 

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I have some cleaning up to do. Over all, this casting went well.
 

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I have been having troubles holding definition in my smaller gears. There is no way that I would be able to mold my larger piece. I found a spur gear that is a match for my gear pitch. I hope to find a brass one later. I plan to use this gear as a donor to patch into my damage part.
 

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Wish me luck. I cannot finish any more bear or squid without making more of these.

That won't cut it. Copper is too soft.

Find a gear shop - they can make those.

Or scan them and 3D print them in something durable.
 
I have been having troubles holding definition in my smaller gears. There is no way that I would be able to mold my larger piece. I found a spur gear that is a match for my gear pitch. I hope to find a brass one later. I plan to use this gear as a donor to patch into my damage part.
These parts weren't cast - they were machined. Castings have porosity, and they don't hold up well in these applications. One bit of air in a gear tooth, and it breaks.

Your approach in this case is much better. If you have a machine shop, they can chuck that into a lathe or a Cincinnati Millicron or equivalent, and machine off that extra material.
 
These parts weren't cast - they were machined. Castings have porosity, and they don't hold up well in these applications. One bit of air in a gear tooth, and it breaks.

Your approach in this case is much better. If you have a machine shop, they can chuck that into a lathe or a Cincinnati Millicron or equivalent, and machine off that extra material.
Read up on my postings before you quote them.
 
Very grotesque measurements. If yours is missing, this might help.

Bend both top wings at each crease away from the paper.
 

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Another kindergarten drawing.

.875 width may need to be adjusted to fit inside the channel made from the previous drawing.
 

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Use it or don't. It suits my needs.
 

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The drawing on the left is an actual tracing. I gave 3" dimensions if you printed off the image.
The drawing on the right are measurements on a not-to-scale drawing.
 

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I transferred my pivot points directly from the housing. This is done by hand and my measurements do not always line up.
The top lever should drop to .600 below grade. I had to file my mounting bracket to allow for this. For the bottom lever, I have an actual tracing shown. The two end pieces should be parallel to each other.

The pivot arms should be fairly shallow. Both arms work closely together and should not bind.
 

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