Shoot the Bear

Photo 1, the two levers need to be down. Photo 2, the two levers need to be up. Each lever has a pin protruding through the bottom. These two pins need to be touching the two catches on the lever actuated by the lobe. This whole part is made by hand and positions must be adjusted along the process.
 

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The first lever is installed .550 from the inside of the cam to the outside of the first lever. The second lever is .450 measured center to center of each lever.

A picture of each actual lever is shown. Both levers should be up in travel mode and down in transition mode. The lobes actuate each lever, and much be machined to function properly. Each set that I have made looks nothing like the original and is made to fit the housing that I have made.
 

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The display sockets have a high failure rate. Some of the ones on my personal game have failed even after swapping in assumed working. These ones from Marco will suit my needs to finish up a 5th game.

 

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My effort looks promising so far. The donor gears are not a direct match. Also, placement is difficult. I had to dry fit and file each one to fit the opposing gear.

The leading and trailing tooth are most important. I had to have near interference fit to catch the opposing gear. Over time and dried grease, the pot metal tooth wore and bound up the mechanism.
 

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I was surprised it went so cheap being in the Chicago area. I was the other bidder and was willing to drive to go get it.

That should clean up real nice after a cap job on the amplifier. The grease and other lube have a good chance of being seized up.
 
I was surprised it went so cheap being in the Chicago area. I was the other bidder and was willing to drive to go get it.

That should clean up real nice after a cap job on the amplifier. The grease and other lube have a good chance of being seized up.
Over time as you all probably know, the oil leaches out of the clay- or paraffin-based binders.

The grease then becomes sludge. It was never intended for lifetime operation, but few people ever expected these games to be operating 40, 50, 60 or 70 years after they were built.
 
After multiple days and stealing a part from a donor chassis, my score reel is finally working. All three leaf's need to have minimal pressure. A small spring returns the dial to zero. Any catch or ridge will cause the dial to stick. The holes for the fiber disc are large enough to allow for adjustment. Each step will energize or de-energize the reversing solenoid. If it does not change state, the disc needs to be adjusted. This needs to be checked for all 20 available positions.

The inner leaf on this part was on my other chassis. It has a sharp edge that kept catching. The other leafs are mis formed and I did not want to break them. I changed it out and will probably have to use it in the future.
 

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I am almost done with my 5th game. Those little green targets have been difficult to reproduce with accuracy.

I had the artwork behind the glass reproduced. As well as the inner tree artwork.
 

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It is not optimal. But I think that this will work. The one I made is on the left. I got a clear target from Sticker Talk. The other I got from RapidVinyl. The target is on the front and the translucent vinyl is on the back.
 

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I have the glass installed. The top one had damaged paint. I now have a usable rendition. I spray- painted the back of the glass red. I then applied my numbers and spray-painted gray over the back of that. All of the green targets are new.
 

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Hi Rod. I'm checking out my Shoot The bear gun cabinet chassis. It's missing the shot timing relay. I wonder if yours is original. The ohm reading for the relay coil is stamped on the outside of the coil. Would you happen to know this number. Thanks, Fred
 
I would need pictures. I have plenty of spare chassis and might be able to spare one if I knew what you were looking for.
 
That is on the coin mechanism. I do not have any spares of those. It is just a relay that actuates the knocker and growler. You would have to look at the schematic and see what the coil voltage is.
 
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