Shinboi Restoration

frdmrckr

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Donor 2012
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New to the arcade world. And my first purchase? well it was a "working" shinobi converted cabinet. It was originally a Star Trek cabinet. Came with the original install manual and everything. And it is working except for a few things. First being the picture. Greens gone, and the blue always on. From what i read and what i tested, i got a short between the heater and blue cathode. There is a ohm reading between them. Think im gonna look for a donor tv soon. I did a cap kit just for good measures. Its a k4600 chassis. The other problem is the attract noise, and sometimes in the actual game, the sound just gets screwed up and sounds awful. I looked at the board and it looks like it had the suicide battery swapped. And the sound rom has been replace, but could the rom be bad? The sound screws up at the same spot everytime.
 
Could be a bad ROM... hard to say... check for scratched/gouged traces first or bent pins on the ROM. Then check the ROM in an EPROM programmer to see if it's OK.
 
No, because they should not be connected correct? If they werent connected, then there wouldnt be any sort of continuity resistance reading between them. And thats what im getting. All i know is blue is always on, even when i unplug the supply lines from the color input board. And green is weak
 
I pulled the rom last night. Pins looked clean, and werent bent. Guess is gotta find someone with a programmer i can check this thing with
 
Just a reminder to everyone about the importance of the correct voltages coming from your power supply. Checked the adjustment on my power supply and it said 5.5. so i turned it down to 5.09 and it corrected my sound issue. No need to deal with eprom chips!
 
Glad you got it figured out... and glad no damage was done!

Chips start to cook when turned up too high.

Standard 5v logic runs at 5v +/- 5% which is from 4.75 to 5.25. Too high and you start to damage things.

Luckily those old games are pretty stout. Now, Sega Naomi systems? The tiny surface mount 16bit buffer chips start to fry when you run them at or above 5.2v.

RJ
 
Just a reminder to everyone about the importance of the correct voltages coming from your power supply. Checked the adjustment on my power supply and it said 5.5. so i turned it down to 5.09 and it corrected my sound issue. No need to deal with eprom chips!

So much so I put it into my signature......
 
No, because they should not be connected correct?
The heater connects directly to the cathode. It might be of interest to some people that it was always thought that electrons flowed from anode to cathode. During the invention of the CRT, it was discovered that it was actually the opposite.

frdmrckr said:
If they werent connected, then there wouldnt be any sort of continuity resistance reading between them.
There would be no continuity, but you would have an infinite resistance.
 
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The heater connects directly to the cathode. It might be of interest to some people that it was always thought that electrons flowed from anode to cathode. During the invention of the CRT, it was discovered that it was actually the opposite.


There would be no continuity, but you would have an infinite resistance.

That makes sense. Thanks for the clearification. The tube is shot, no doubt about that. If i hit the neck it flashes to some better colors. But i cant get it to clear up permenately, not to mention its pretty badly burned in on the front. Just time for another one.

All in all, the arcade is getting somewhere. It playable now that the sound doesnt make you wanna just drop kick the machine. Just got to fix the monitor, and eventually ill redo the decals and make it look pretty
 
You should try a CRT Tester/Rejuvenator. They have functions to burn out any shorts which could breathe some extra life into your tube.

RJ
 
Also usually when the +5v line is turned up it drops the +12v output to stay within the max continuous. This usually happens on the cheaper PSUs and some brand name ones.
 
I got another question for the experts out there. Its missing the coin door light sockets. Any idea where i could get a replacement cheap?
 
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