Sharp XM1801 B+ issues

GTZ

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Power up the monitor with R707 turned all the way down. B+ is 98.2 and have a viewable picture. Start to increase r707 and at 102.v picture goes blank and voltage drops to 72v and r707 has no change to the volatage. Power down and turn r707 all the way down. Plug it back in and same thing. This monitor has new caps new fly and new filter caps. This monitor came to me totally dead so I am closer. Any help is appreciated
 
Sorry to hi-jack your thread, but does anyone know why a 20-in would blow fuses (2 small fuses, the one that blows is the one closest to the flyback) after a cap kit, new flyback and hot?

I thought I jump in since my thread got NO replies :)
 
So I put the old flyback in and B+ adjusts to 110 no problem. I guess the brand new fly was bad on delivery. Or is it possible the repro fly only wants a B+ of 100. What's the good or bad of B+ only at 100?
 
There have been some reports of defective repro flys for those. Problem is, I do not know which source has the defective flys.

Where did you get your repro fly?
 
Finally got around to installing the 2nd new fly. This unit will adjust B+ to 110v. This one actually works better at 117v. So it seems there are some inconsistencies in the repro units.
End result is both units work, just with out of spec B+ voltage.
 
I have a similar but not same issue. I just installed a new flyback from AC and my monitor is constantly shutting down. I double and triple checked my soldering work. I did a cap kit, new HOT and new fly. Picture is fantastic but monitor keeps shutting down.

I am gonna try higher B+.

QUESTION: The B+ pot on this monitor, is it the same as the 20EZ? Same specs? It's oriented differently. Will it fit?
 
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Let me know what comes of this. You shouldn't be adjusting past 110... What works better when you crank it to 117? Like I was saying another user had a b+ issue and it turned out not to be a replacement flyback issue at all. Watch out for open traces. I don't remember resistor # but there is one that has the trace pad almost always open or near open on that chassis. It's a larger watt resistor.
 
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