Sharp XM-2001N - Running out of options

craigolof28

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So the Sharp XM-2001N in my Donkey Kong hasn't been working properly since I bought it. When I fire it up, it's easily the most pixel perfect monitor in my lineup. As a few minutes go by, it starts to flicker, the picture starts to curve really bad, and the picture even disappears for a minute sometimes. To date, I have done a full cap kit (including the filter caps), reflowed a bunch of solder, replaced the HOT, replaced the flyback, replaced the power cord to make sure everything was properly grounded, and even gave it a simple green bath but still have seen no change in its behavior. I'm starting to run out of options on how to fix this thing, anyone know what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
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have you checked the B+? looks almost like a horizontal deflection issue and if your caps are new and good quality then i would check your yoke and get readings and see if its on tight and spaced properly. was the fold over like that before the cap kit? if not then recheck your work well.
 
Is it a sharp or a sanyo? First off the aspect ratio is too much... Donkey kong isn't supposed to fill the monitor. Check your hold pots and adjust them (they're probs on the edge of sync). Make sure resistors arn't shorted. Also reflow the monitor connector on the pcb. Replace vr1 and 2 on the pcb too.
 
Forgot to mention the B+, yes it's dead nuts at 110V which is what the manual says to set it at. It's a Sharp, not a Sanyo. The monitor was behaving like this before and after the cap kit, I triple check my work because I'm anal like that so everything should be correct. I haven't tried reading the yoke, what should the reading be?
 
please dont mess with the yoke. This is a sync issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQhY-l8nJvg

Does your monitor look like that. Ive never heard of a sharp in a donkey kong. That monitor in the video is a sanyo. Please try and just your holds and remember donkey kong isn't supposed to fill the screen.
 
A Sharp can play both Nintendo PCBs and normal PCBs, from what I've heard Sharps in Donkey Kongs are few and far between but some do have them. It's not a Sanyo 20-EZ, sorry if I haven't made that clear. The screen is not full, it's pretty much dead center on the tube but still has an inch of clearance on the sides and two inches on the top and bottom.
 
Yes, there were some which came with Sharp monitors installed.

Looks like your horizontal hold control is just a tad off and needs a bit of a tweak to straighten it out.

As to the shutdown issue, could be old or el cheapo capacitors in your capkit. Could also be bad solder joints or a flyback going bad.
 
It is an Ian Kellogg cap kit so they are high quality caps. I'm not sure if it's a horizontal hold issue as I have messed with the pot and it didn't seem to improve anything. I've messed with all the adjustment pots so I'm going to look for cold solder joints and shorted parts, I'm thinking the issue isn't an adjustment. Thanks for everyone's input so far
 
You could have shit pots too :) also check the solder on the game. Reflow all the connectors for the video including the pcb.
 
Losing the image on warmup has often been cracked solder joints on the neck board for me. The screen curl is probably H-hold pot when the caps are good (as has been said).
 
This is pretty common on DK PCBs and its usually not the Monitor from my experience. There are two pots on the DK PCB, adjust those and I bet it clears up your problem.
 
I had this exact problem and found that either the VR1 or VR2 pot, I don't recall which one, on my DK video board was bad. I replaced these and this fixed my issue which was the left side of my screen drooped down like yours.
 
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