I'm thinking your going to need some.
Board level repair, its a good time to remove the chassis
and send out for repair.
Or you could check for a short.
If you look at the schematic you'll see 3 taps off the secondary
so if the primary is working, and theres a short on the secondary
of the smps then anyone of those dc supplys for drive circuits.
can cause the smps to tick.
I know you don't want to start thinking until you have the cap kit...
But while your waiting I would look for a short.
Key test points are the supply test points.
I just put my ohm meter on the test point to ground.
the cathode side of these diodes is the point to be test to ground reference.
if there was a short there it will cause the smps to chirp.
I would not suspect the diodes them self just the load on the trace.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=384835
I would look at the chassis around the smps and look for those diodes.
and the one that was shorted just by touching the ohm meter to it,
will send you straight to the defected part.
You should be able to find the short without plugging the chassis in.
Any issues with "I don't know where you mean then take a picture of the chassis
out of the game on the bench!
You will need the chassis out to replace the caps so I would
look for short now!
Likely shorts are
The vertical IC
H.O.T because of flyback or High voltage poly cap found on the
high low frequency jumper board.
I would not suspect the caps.
Find the short first. you can always just replace the caps
which I would not suspect for this symptom.
Unless I didn't find any shorts on the supply lines.
Then that would be next thing!
I don't use the conituity checker I use the ohm meter.
If I read 10 ohms on the B+ or vertical, or 12v supply and when I find a defective part
you will read 10 ohms on it to ground.
matching the ohms tells me I have found the part
that made the trace have 10 ohms on it.
I know this is old school TS
I try to pin point the failure first!
shorts are very easy to find in my book!