Sharp Image 34" No Pic

ThunderBunny

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I have a showcase cab that now has no image. It has been acting funny for the past week. It would go really dark then brighten back to normal randomly. Changed the board today and now I get no pic. I have neck glow but nothing else. There's not a whole lot of info about these. Any idea where to start on this?
 
Cap kit?

replace c904 first! if in this chassis
Not sure which chassis try using
the schematic at klov monitor manuals.

Check remote board controls are good
and connectors to and from chassis.
Was that the board you replaced?
Any High Voltage?
check for bad connections around the board.
Good Luck!
 
The only thing on the chassis is KTMF. The only thing I changed was the game board. I put the old board back in and it still plays dark. When I turn it on I can here static but no pic. I've checked all the connections.
 
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Dark Picture

The only thing on the chassis is KTMF. The only thing I changed was the game board. I put the old board back in and it still plays dark. When I turn it on I can here static but no pic. I've checked all the connections.

Heres a picture of your chassis.

I know how you love monitors so you might want to send it out
for repair if you don't mine waiting a month or so..
if not we can try and fix it now.

If you have heater glow the voltage comes from the flyback.
Did you turn the screen pot clockwise to see a brighter raster?.
If OEM caps you should replace them see zanen electronics for kit
or if you have caps in stock then do a search for the cap kits and some
sites show the cap list and thier locations only around 20 caps for this chassis.
D605 is a good place to check for B+ band side of diode for voltage.
BP401 on bottom corner of chassis is the connector and very likely to get
bad connections on that plug pins so solder ity good.
If you have a tube checker you might check the tube also.
 

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I do love them. haha. I'm a cheap bastard, so I'm gonna work on it. I ordered a kit from Bob. It doesn't list what caps are in it but I'm hoping it's the right one. I'll tell you when I changed my game board and turned it on, the game made a horrible screeching sound. The person before me cut the JAMMA connector between the power connections and the rest of the connections. I might not have had it sitting correctly on the connector. If that's any clue to what's going on. I have neck glow. I turned the screen control all the way up and get no raster. I'll those connections a touch up tonight and see what voltages I'm getting. I don't have any way to check the tube but when it was working it was nice and bright. Thanks for the help.
 
I also have this chassis on a 34" showcase cabinet. Does anyone sell a cap kit already made up for this?
 
I ordered from Bob Roberts. I have no idea if it's the right one. I ordered the KTMF-2641M kit. May or may not be the right one. Should have it in a day or two.
 
Thanks for the info, while I have not done super extensive research on this chassis it sure seems there is a lot of confusion as to what it exactly is referred to as.
 
Ok, so I pulled the chassis and gave it a look over. There were a couple cold solder joints that looked burnt on r415. Reflowed those and anything else that looked suspect. Now I have this a visible picture. This is with screen turned all the way on flyback and contrast and brightness turned up. I accidentally turned the h hold and now I can't get it to sit still.

 
Caps

Heres a cap list for the low res chassis.
===================================
Sharp Image KTMF-2641M Phillips 34"
===================================

C108 - 10uf 25v (Bipolar)
C109 - 10uf 25v (Bipolar)
C110 - 10uf 25v (Bipolar)
C111 - 33uf 16v
C112 - 1uf 50v
C113 - 22uf 25v
C115 - 22uf 25v
C119 - 470uf 16v
C202 - 2200uf 16v
C203 - 47uf 50v
C205 - 220uf 35v
C210 - 470uf 25v
C402 - 220uf 50v
C403 - 1uf 50v
C408 - 10uf 50v
C500 - 47uf 16v
C606 - 330uf 400v (Filter cap)
C609 - 33uf 200v*
C610 - 10uf 160v*
C612 - 100uf 200v*
C613 - 100uf 200v*
C614 - 1000uf 35v
C615 - 1000uf 35v
C702 - 10uf 50v
C805 - 100uf 25v
C806 - 22uf 50v
C807 - 22uf 50v
C902 - 1000uf 16v
C903 - 220uf 35v
C904 - 33uf 250v* most of the time the + side of cap is visiably bad.
C906 - 1000uf 35v
cap list copy and paste from a website.
heres the schematic for this chassis
and a service manual. Removed link,had wrong manual.
After the caps you should have it fixed. Good Luck!
 
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Got my cap kit earlier than expected. From the short glance looks like I got the right kit. Does anybody know which connectors the yolk wires hook up to for standard res? A or B? Will be on this tonight.
 
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Ok, cap kit in and nothing... Same pic, slightly better. Still can't get sync buttoned down and I still have to have the fly, brightness and contrast all the way up. Where else do I start looking?
 
Ok,did you replace all the caps
In the chassis? With the kit?
Most of the time thats all it needs is caps
What is your b+?
 
Not gonna lie... I couldn't find C500 anywhere. I was missing C203 from my kit. What are the odds that one of those two are effing me? I did manage to find a cap that will work for C203. B+ is reading 124.7. I'm going to replace C203 with the one I found and search for the C500 again tonight.
 
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Not gonna lie... I couldn't find C500 anywhere. I was missing C203 from my kit. What are the odds that one of those two are effing me? I did manage to find a cap that will work for C203. B+ is reading 124.7. I'm going to replace C203 with the one I found and search for the C500 again tonight.

of coarse the fly should beable to work
good even if you had the monitor hooked up wrong
or the sync work good if the fly was bad..

You might need a sniper rifle now
instead of a shotgun. lol.
Because you put in a few parts
already and no change..

D607 should be around 28vs.
a flyback could be the next part you need
based on the pots all the way up.
Need to check q701 a part i find bad sometimes
it sits on the heatsink of HOT.
Its maybe killing some voltages.
just another thing to check.

FIND ANYTHING TODAY?
 
I will be looking more here in a couple hours. Who sells a flyback for this model? Or which one works? Sniper rifle is out...

chad shows some instock.
at arcadecup.
Make sure you getting enough heater voltage
the top two pins on board put meter on ac and measure across the pins
should have atleast 4-6vs ac
it comes from the fly thru r418 a 3.3 ohm 3 watt resistor.
low heater will make the picture dark even after the master screen
pot is adjusted all the way up.
 
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