dc2010
Active member
it sound to me like a bad bridge rectifier or cap, pull the driver board with the 15000mfd 25v caps physically inspect them , buy a 25 dollar dmm at wally and test them ,
Sharkey's Shootout - What do you think?
- Thread starter bungy
- Start date
splattergatz
Well-known member
says in the manual:
the I/O will reset in three cases:
1. the CPU is in reset. the CPU's reset signal is fed into the I/O through connector J1 and forces the I/O into reset.
2. The 5v supply has fallen below 4.75
3. the watchdog is not being fed by the scanning of the light matrix. More specifically PIN-19 of U6 must be toggling once every 50ms to prevent the watchdog from resetting. the scanning of the light matrix is controlled by the CPU through J1
LED L204 shows the reset state of the I/O board.
If this LED is not lit either the 5v DC is below 4.75 or the CPU/SOUND BOARD is holding the I/O in reset. if the LED is flashing this means that the watchdog is not being fed by the CPU/SOUND BOARD and the I/O is oscillating into and out of reset.
If the LED is continously on, the board is out of reset and communication from the CPU to the lamp matrix is confirmed.
Testpoint Blanking is the actual reset signal on the I/O board. a low voltage indicates that it is in reset. this will turn off all solenoid drivers, flash lamps, lamp matrix drivers, auxiliary outputs and flipper outputs. a high voltage indicates that it is out of reset and normal operation can take place.
all address decoding is done by two 74LS138's (U204 & U205)
both of these must be in operation for the I/O board to function properly
what i would do is put a multimeter on the 5v line and see what its doing. see if its fluctuating or steady
not sure if a logic probe can detect if Pin-19 of U6 is toggling once every 50 ms but try it
comes down to the LED L204 and what's it's state
need to try and narrow it down to whats causing the trouble, the I/O board or the CPU
GuidoTorpedo
Well-known member
At 4.97, that's barely adequate. You get a reduction in line voltage, or hit both flippers together, and that should be enough to knock the game out. There is a +5V adjust on the driver board. It is on a small square type potentiometer, I believe to the upper-center left area of the PDB. Take a straight jeweler's screwdriver and turn that pot clockwise 5 or 10 minutes. See if that makes a difference.
-Mike
-Mike
bungy
Well-known member
I have a Fluke with capacitance test, wasn't sure that would be accurate enough. I'll try it.
I already adjusted the pot all the way up. This makes sense because the game shuts down when any coils are fired. Even if I fire only one flipper.
L204 is not lit - I'm going to look at the 5v line. Thanks for the info.
gobsgraham
Member
Let me know if you need any parts. I very sadly have one that I don't think I will be able to restore. A very large rock fell (or was dropped on it). Missing a flipper, ball launch plunger, one of the main boards (I haven't opened it to find out which one) and the playfield looks like it is warped or the mounts are broken. When I look at it from the coin door it slopes to the right.
Attachments
bungy
Well-known member
Just got finished playing a full game!
For the +5 line, the voltage going into J17 was ~8.6VAC, good per the manual. After the rectifier (BRDG21) it was ~7.5VDC, bad. Should have been between 10 & 11v. Consequently the regulated voltage was ~3VDC, not the expected 5VDC.
Rectifier at BRDG21 metered good, but was *sometimes* failing under load. This is why I was able to get the game up for a few minutes at a time intermittently. I swapped in a rectifier from a spare color vector power supply and the game came up perfectly with a solid 5.1 volts on the CPU board.
This game is a lot of fun!!! Glad I took everyone's advice and picked it up - for $500 and a minor headache, it was a steal!
Pinball is a new world for me and you guys were a lot of help, Thanks!
For the +5 line, the voltage going into J17 was ~8.6VAC, good per the manual. After the rectifier (BRDG21) it was ~7.5VDC, bad. Should have been between 10 & 11v. Consequently the regulated voltage was ~3VDC, not the expected 5VDC.
Rectifier at BRDG21 metered good, but was *sometimes* failing under load. This is why I was able to get the game up for a few minutes at a time intermittently. I swapped in a rectifier from a spare color vector power supply and the game came up perfectly with a solid 5.1 volts on the CPU board.
This game is a lot of fun!!! Glad I took everyone's advice and picked it up - for $500 and a minor headache, it was a steal!
Pinball is a new world for me and you guys were a lot of help, Thanks!
bungy
Well-known member
Thanks for the offer. I know I have a couple broken plastics and I'm not sure if the Mystery Ball works as I haven't seen it light up yet. I'll let you know if I need anything.
splattergatz
Well-known member
dont be adjusting the pot without a multimeter connected. you dont want that 5v to be over 5.35 for very long if at all. that much will cause damage to the chips
my THE SOPRANOS 5v is at 5v even
5.1 is ok too but if you can get it at 5v, it should run
oh shoot ! i now read the thread and you got it !!!
still, try to adjust it down a hair and see if it works
bungy
Well-known member
Well, the game has been running pretty good, but there is one issue. If I bang on the flippers enough, maybe like 5 to 7 times on each side, the game resets. It will also do this if 2 balls get stuck in the launch ramp during multiball and it keeps trying to auto-launch them. Any ideas on what causes this behavior?
GuidoTorpedo
Well-known member
Glad you got it working!
For the 8 ball, there is a board with a relay under the playfield. This board is used in many stern games, and is very susceptable to cold solder joints. Pull the board, reflow everything, see what you get.
For the 8 ball, there is a board with a relay under the playfield. This board is used in many stern games, and is very susceptable to cold solder joints. Pull the board, reflow everything, see what you get.
bungy
Well-known member
Thanks, but it turned out to just be a fuse. There's a fuse under the playfield for the magnet. The lights and motor were working all along, I didn't notice the strobing with the garage lights on.
beerorkid
New member
This was one fun thread to follow. You dove into pins and rocked it and got a killer deal. Pins are fun and you obviously know enough to work on them.
What is the next one you want?
What is the next one you want?
bungy
Well-known member
Funhouse.
Or something horror themed, I think. Elvira & the Party Monsters or Tales from the Crypt.
dc2010
Active member
glad you got it going
bungy
Well-known member
Turns out the reset issue was because I was using a long extension cord. I have a 100' cord that I use to plug in power tools or other things that aren't near an outlet, and I had been using it to run the pinball. I read somewhere online that the long cord can cause "line drop". I plugged it into a 10' extension and have not had a problem since. Just wanted to post the resolution in case anyone searches this thread in the future.
R3LL1K
Well-known member
Trying finding one of those for $500! You got a great deal.
