SF2 graphical glitches caused by bad part

Okita

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TL;DR version - Anyone know what part FB1 on a CPS1 board is?

Hi all, pretty new to arcade fixes and game preservation in general. I bought a Street Fighter 2: World Warrior board a few months back that suffered from graphical glitching, but didn't match the usual descriptions of arcade repair logs I'd read about jailbars, missing colors, bad sprite ROMs, etc.

I noticed that the problem was intermittent, tapping the board would sometimes make it go away, but this gave diminishing returns. Eventually, I found that flexing the board would fix the problem. My hypothesis at this point was one of:

1) Loose solder joint
2) Bad discrete component
3) Bad trace/CPU connection

Hoping it wasn't 3, I tested every chip I could find for continuity with no luck. Earlier today, just by flexing different parts of the board, I narrowed it down to one component, which it seemed by wiggling, I could fix the issue entirely. Unfortunately, in the course of finding a position that worked, I snapped the component off the board, whoops!

I wanted to try replacing it, but I want to make sure what part and value I should use. The symbol looks like an inductor, right?
 

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I'm almost positive a wire link would work fine there. If you want, you could "borrow" an unused one from the C-board's extra inputs.

Nice MVS-U4!
 
TL;DR version - Anyone know what part FB1 on a CPS1 board is?

Hi all, pretty new to arcade fixes and game preservation in general. I bought a Street Fighter 2: World Warrior board a few months back that suffered from graphical glitching, but didn't match the usual descriptions of arcade repair logs I'd read about jailbars, missing colors, bad sprite ROMs, etc.

I noticed that the problem was intermittent, tapping the board would sometimes make it go away, but this gave diminishing returns. Eventually, I found that flexing the board would fix the problem. My hypothesis at this point was one of:

1) Loose solder joint
2) Bad discrete component
3) Bad trace/CPU connection

Hoping it wasn't 3, I tested every chip I could find for continuity with no luck. Earlier today, just by flexing different parts of the board, I narrowed it down to one component, which it seemed by wiggling, I could fix the issue entirely. Unfortunately, in the course of finding a position that worked, I snapped the component off the board, whoops!

I wanted to try replacing it, but I want to make sure what part and value I should use. The symbol looks like an inductor, right?
If it's fb1 you're asking about it's a ferrite bead. Just repaired a ww that had fb2 missing and resulting in boot loop, sometimes boot into game in black and white and other graphical issues. Find any other FB on the board like the ones in that second picture, next to the socketed pal. They're all the same thing. If you don't have a spare parts board, send me a pm, I can pull and mail you one. But like mike suggested, jumpering it may do that trick and save us both some hassle.
 
I'm almost positive a wire link would work fine there. If you want, you could "borrow" an unused one from the C-board's extra inputs.

Nice MVS-U4!

Thanks! I tried a wire, but it didn't really seem to work. How do I tell which of the C-board's inputs are unused? I'm a little nervous about pulling the wrong ferrite bead.


NoAffinity said:
Find any other FB on the board like the ones in that second picture, next to the socketed pal. They're all the same thing. If you don't have a spare parts board, send me a pm, I can pull and mail you one. But like mike suggested, jumpering it may do that trick and save us both some hassle.

Thank you! I need to pick up a soldering iron, but I'll give this a shot first and pm you if it doesn't work out. I have a copy of the schematic, how can I feel if a FB isn't critical?
 
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