Sega Monaco GP Mini Cab Montior TOO DARK/ Steering Wheel

wmacmonagle

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Sega Monaco GP Mini Cab Montior TOO DARK/ Steering Wheel

I just found this Mini Cab via craigslist and haul up to my garage. Tested and everything works except two things.

I havent start working on few things but wanted a feedbacks before taking stupid actions (rookie here).

few things is...

1. After powering on. It would take approx good 2 minutes to get machine to load up and running. The guy I bought from said its get to warm up. (Is that normal?)

2. When It is full power up. I would hardly to see the game running. It s like bright set too low. It is very too dark to see but I can see it is running. (Any possible for me to adjust brightness or back light to light up to view better picture?)

3. Shift (Hi/Low) works, Gas works, but... Steering Wheel doesn't... I would put this on hold discussion because I havent start taking look at it. I am sure there is wiring issue which I could try fix myself. The one I have now is Japan version (Driving on right side). I do have extra part which are America Version (Driving Left). I would see what I can do to fix that up. (I will hit up later if I couldn't fix or anything.

Appreciate for the feedbacks recieved!...

MiniCabSegaGP.jpg


Kudos

~WMac
 
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Nice pick up, this is a great little game. I recently got one these myself and have been working on it.

If your machine has the 14" Matsushita monitor, there is a brightness pot on the monitor neck board that should correct your issue. I had to adjust mine as well.

Here is the manual for the monitor so you can check your set up.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Moni...nd Printing Matsushita 14in Color Raster .pdf

The steering on mine was flaky when I got it. I removed the control panel so I could get a better look at the sterring optical board and wheel. Before you completely remove/disconnect the cp, check to see if the red LED on the optical board lights up when you turn the wheel. This will tell you if the board is sensing movement in the optical wheel.

The problem with mine was that the wheel has a slight bend to it and would rub up against the sensors on the optical board. With the cp out, I was able to slowly turn the wheel and see where the bend was. I just gently bent it back into better shape so that when the steering wheel was moved, the optical wheel would stay between the sensors on the board. That did the trick for me, maybe it will help with your situation too.
 
thanks mbott.

I think my montior may be different or the motherboard on montior .. id ont know what it s called .. friend of mine said it s capkit.. anyway.. that bright adjustor.. i found them in different place compared to this guide. i had gone darker and brightest as possible and it s still hard to see. I have to turn off light to barely to see it.

I ve heard about monitor could kill you.. I just dont want to flop around with it to get killed! lol..

I may ask AOK4LIfe for the help when i get the answers first..

Shall I replace lamp inside or just cap kit? how much does cap kit cost? how can i find right model number on monitors??? its complicated here and i dont want to touch anything. My other cabs.. Montior is all covered up which is safer for me to re wire everything but this mini cab . neck of monitor is front of me and im not sure what not to touch and what i can touch..

any feedback would be much appreciated!..

thanks
 
I wouldn't cap it yet... find someone near you with a CRT tester/rejuvenator and have the tube tested. It may be weak.

A local TV shop should be able to test it and rejuvenate it to breathe a bit more life in it for about 30 to 40 bucks.

Once you get the diagnosis on the tube you can then worry about capping it.

RJ
 
Thanks channelmanic for the tips.

Montiors get little better by itself. Will take CRT to SHOP to check up thos.

AS FOR THE Steering Wheel non function... I had inspect and following the wires where it attached to steering wheel and the hi/lo function. I had inspect carefully on the wires and start deciding go follow the wires and see any cuts or whatever. Guess what i found.

Harness on the top end where steering wires goes to (4 wires). It had melted harness and burned inside. I had carved and removed the melt plastic to get the metal inside to get connections.

I checked the board itself and found the damage to the area where steering are supposed to attached. Here is the photos.

Options A: DUMP THIS BOARD AND REPLACE IF IT S AVAILABLE.

Options B: Should I found somone to solder the wire from harness to the good circuit board part and solder on the board?

I had attached three photos which you can see pictures.

Any Feedbacks would be much appreciated.

Monaco GP Board ID

photo3.jpg


Monaco GP Harness Burned which you can see plastic melted and I fixed and hoping it would get connection after I fix or replace board.

photo1.jpg


Monaco GP Board being fried.

photo2.jpg
 
Any advises? Shall i get board to be fixed or.... get it replaced?

if replaced..

anyone whoever has the board.. send me PMS . iwoudl be interested to buy

thanks
 
Use copper trace tape to repair the connection.

If the connection is to both sides of the edge connector then you can wrap the copper tape around it to make it a stronger connection.

RJ
 
ChannelManic...

Thanks for the tips on connector but i wanted to fix board.. so i was told that it can be re laminate via circuit board shop or something?

I have extra harness which i could figure and replace that connector.

LMK any advises on the fry part on board.

thanks

p.s. i could munderstood what you said (again.. rookie here) but can u elaborate thanks.

Use copper trace tape to repair the connection.

If the connection is to both sides of the edge connector then you can wrap the copper tape around it to make it a stronger connection.

RJ
 
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- You can use copper trace tape as stated earlier or just cut the wire to the harness at that pin then solder the wire to the board trace- fixed.
 
Is this the same monitor used in the CP version?

Nice pick up, this is a great little game. I recently got one these myself and have been working on it.

If your machine has the 14" Matsushita monitor, there is a brightness pot on the monitor neck board that should correct your issue. I had to adjust mine as well.

Here is the manual for the monitor so you can check your set up.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Moni...nd Printing Matsushita 14in Color Raster .pdf

The steering on mine was flaky when I got it. I removed the control panel so I could get a better look at the sterring optical board and wheel. Before you completely remove/disconnect the cp, check to see if the red LED on the optical board lights up when you turn the wheel. This will tell you if the board is sensing movement in the optical wheel.

The problem with mine was that the wheel has a slight bend to it and would rub up against the sensors on the optical board. With the cp out, I was able to slowly turn the wheel and see where the bend was. I just gently bent it back into better shape so that when the steering wheel was moved, the optical wheel would stay between the sensors on the board. That did the trick for me, maybe it will help with your situation too.
 
I had found ebay and my friend is ordering the optical board along with game board...

My question here is..

Harness to the old board shows fried.. What is the cause of? I think I need to know what to check before putting new board to the old harness that are being fixed.

Something is causing hot to melt and fried the board..

Any advises for me to test or whatever would be appreciate to save my another board that cost me some fortune.

thanks
 
I guess it could've been an issue with something on the board itslef that was fried. If you replace that board, it could be okay.

Check voltages from the power supply to make sure they are what they should be. The user manual should have the correct readings to compare against. I'll have to check my manual to verify, though. Also, replace the caps on the two small power supply circuit boards. (I did that on mine, just for preventative maintenance).
 
mbott

I had replaced the board and everything is working WHEWWW~!!!.. Thanks KLOV for the help..


Problem here is .. There were a adjust on the board... but i recalld which you said something about neck pot.. Is there anohter ajdustable???

can u shoot me picture an example where i can adjust the brightness on the montior. one of member here had came to my place and shoot the pictures and said it s possible cap kit.. but i wanted to ensure that brightess is a adjustment on the neck of monitor???

clarifcation please thanks


I guess it could've been an issue with something on the board itslef that was fried. If you replace that board, it could be okay.

Check voltages from the power supply to make sure they are what they should be. The user manual should have the correct readings to compare against. I'll have to check my manual to verify, though. Also, replace the caps on the two small power supply circuit boards. (I did that on mine, just for preventative maintenance).
 
Glad to hear your new board worked.

As far as the brightness setting location, it depends on the monitor that you have. Mine is a Matsushima 14" and it has the brightness setting on the neck board.

bright.jpg
 
Glad to hear your new board worked.

As far as the brightness setting location, it depends on the monitor that you have. Mine is a Matsushima 14" and it has the brightness setting on the neck board.

bright.jpg

You need to push that neck board back onto the tube :eek:

You shouldn't be able to see the pins :)
 
on the 3rd picture.. There is white two adjustable pot. The top says FOCUS. Bottom says CRT Bias (this what i changed little brighter) but already maxxed out.

My next guess is CAP KIT? If so then I guess I ll live in dark to play or find someone who could solder!
 
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