Sega Daytona set

78whiteorbs

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Trying to help a friend with a set of daytonas. They were trying to link a set together 1 and 2 that were working fine but while both were in the settings menu. The right screen went blank. Now when youu power cycle the machine the right display gets nothing .

It's not playing blind. Thought it was just a chassis issue but the fact that it isn't playing blind would negate that.

Could it be stuck in the setup and the screen went out hence it is not booting and playing blind?

I'd think when you power cycled the game that it'd go out of test mode automatically but I recall getting a set one time where it was stuck on the setup screen on boot up every single time until I switched some settings.

I tried two other board sets of known working boards.
 
Set up screens commonly mistaken for start up system boot screen that reports all settings before link established. And yes, definitely verify 5.10vdc at Game Bd. I have helped three customers this last week with power issues causing what you are seeing.
 
Set up screens commonly mistaken for start up system boot screen that reports all settings before link established. And yes, definitely verify 5.10vdc at Game Bd. I have helped three customers this last week with power issues causing what you are seeing.
Left working side has 5 green led's lit.

Right side has only one on the pcb stack.

So is it possible that the right monitor is out and it is not "playing blind" because it is in test mode?
 

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Your "playing blind" thing is not a thing. on this if you ever see any picture. Nor starting in test mode. Test mode is a specific thing you use I/O Bd inputs to enter. It will not start in test mode and then boot or go black or whatever.

If you have 5.10vdc at Game Bd, not PSU, swap Game Bd and I/O Bd to good working side to confirm one bad. One or the other is bad. At that point you would need to send bad part in for repair. I am only shop working on these. Repaired well over 5000 so far. You should also get them out of link set up if you can so you are not getting confused on this "test mode" thing.
 
Your "playing blind" thing is not a thing. on this if you ever see any picture. Nor starting in test mode. Test mode is a specific thing you use I/O Bd inputs to enter. It will not start in test mode and then boot or go black or whatever.

If you have 5.10vdc at Game Bd, not PSU, swap Game Bd and I/O Bd to good working side to confirm one bad. One or the other is bad. At that point you would need to send bad part in for repair. I am only shop working on these. Repaired well over 5000 so far. You should also get them out of link set up if you can so you are not getting confused on this "test mode" thing.
Swapped 2 different known good pcb stacks same thing. Nothing at all.

Which board is the I/O board? Also weird thing when I adjust the brightness/ fly back the screen is doing nothing . If the screen dies on these , no vertical collapse nothing just black that shouldn't keep the game from playing , no start buttons illuminating or anything.
 
This is the I/O board then .

Swapped known good to the left side works fine . Right side it doesn't work. Only difference is when plugged in the right side only 1 led is lit ,same board when plugged on the left side works fine all leds are green.

I'm gonna swap the power supply .. I didn't measure it at the board but both had same at the plugs .
 
I/O Bd only has one power indication LED on it that should always be lit when power is applied. The second LED It should flash when powered on and stay off. If it stays on, Game Bd, I/O Bd, or connection between them is bad. If you moved both the Game Bd and I/O Bd to good side and they power up fine, verify connection from Game Bd to I/O Bd inside cage is good. If so, then yes, start suspecting monitor chassis died.
You stated first post both had picture but right side went dark. If sets were linked correctly, and monitor just died at that point, the left one would have shown settings and master link, then started into attract mode. However, both would have normal status green LEDs. But you are reporting only one green LED lit on bad side so either its set for link wrong and cannot connect to other so its sitting there not fully booting but trying to talk to other working set, or there is a problem with Game Bd, I/O Bd or connection between them.
Still not ruling out monitor croaked too though. If its original unit we built them with back in 1994 / 1995, its at least 30 years old now.
 
Just wanted to add, I looked at serial number and its never been in to me at Sega nor here at Advanced Repair Center. Rare thing. Being you are where you are, corrosion may be a factor. Corrosion was and still is a major factor with all Daytona units. I have over 1500 records of repairs of corroded Daytona sets. If you send me some clean pics of CPU and ROM Bds I can confirm issue or not.
 
I/O Bd only has one power indication LED on it that should always be lit when power is applied. The second LED It should flash when powered on and stay off. If it stays on, Game Bd, I/O Bd, or connection between them is bad. If you moved both the Game Bd and I/O Bd to good side and they power up fine, verify connection from Game Bd to I/O Bd inside cage is good. If so, then yes, start suspecting monitor chassis died.
You stated first post both had picture but right side went dark. If sets were linked correctly, and monitor just died at that point, the left one would have shown settings and master link, then started into attract mode. However, both would have normal status green LEDs. But you are reporting only one green LED lit on bad side so either its set for link wrong and cannot connect to other so its sitting there not fully booting but trying to talk to other working set, or there is a problem with Game Bd, I/O Bd or connection between them.
Still not ruling out monitor croaked too though. If its original unit we built them with back in 1994 / 1995, its at least 30 years old now.
Gonna test with test pattern generator.

Seems quite the coincidence that it blacked out when the guy was trying to link them
 
yes. hence why I described what to do. because I just know. human error is predictable.
Another possibility is more probable someone would know how to swap a power supply or measure at the connector as opposed to the board especially sega board.
Just working with what I got.
 
Another possibility is more probable someone would know how to swap a power supply or measure at the connector as opposed to the board especially sega board.
Just working with what I got.
what color wire is +5V in a Sega game? ground?
 
I believe this is where you measure the power. Top left side of the cage when looking down at it. Put one sensor on the far left (yellow) and one on the far right (white). Adjust until meter reads 5.1 or as close as you can get
 

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what color wire is +5V in a Sega game? ground?
If there are test points or an edge connector I am pretty confident. I haven't graduated to testing legs yet. I practice the " first do no harm " creed,lol. I'm getting there.
 
If there are test points or an edge connector I am pretty confident. I haven't graduated to testing legs yet. I practice the " first do no harm " creed,lol. I'm getting there.
Put the prong inside the connector until you get a reading on both sides or pull the cable off with the game off, plug in your prongs from the tester into the connector and then turn the game on.
 
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