SEGA After Burner Upright - Right Speaker Dead

RIP…desolder was perilous, we have casualties…funeral planning commencing for the MB3110A at IC4…
 

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Welp…burned a trace too, I tried on this one, definitely better with cap desolder 🤣
 

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Welp…burned a trace too, I tried on this one, definitely better with cap desolder 🤣
Repairable also. Don't pitch it.
You may be able to salvage the majority of the trace you pulled. Lay it back down and epoxy in place. You can also run a jumper between those two pins.

Or you can send it out before the blood and gore continues 😀😀🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 
Repairable also. Don't pitch it.
You may be able to salvage the majority of the trace you pulled. Lay it back down and epoxy in place. You can also run a jumper between those two pins.

Or you can send it out before the blood and gore continues 😀😀🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
The horror can't go on, LMAO. Mike Kessler!! Time to go to Mike!! I gotta fold my cards at this point. After Burner sound amp = royal flush
Me = high card 2
 
So you know your PCB is good. Frankly, I'd be happy about that!

You have an audio board issue it seems. Commence with the stuff that's been suggested here.
I'm not sure. He said he flipped it and gets sound out of the same speaker.

That sounds like a connection issue to me. I'd suggest ringing the wires from the dead speaker to the connector and try to find the break.
 
I'm not sure. He said he flipped it and gets sound out of the same speaker.

That sounds like a connection issue to me. I'd suggest ringing the wires from the dead speaker to the connector and try to find the break.
What this test did was pushed the R PCB output - which we know works - through the left channel. That good signal is dying somewhere in the left path.

The left PCB output - which we didn't know for sure was working - was then outputted in the right side speaker. So the PCB is pushing audio on both channels as expected.

I suppose it's possible that it's the incoming connection at the amp board itself or wiring to the speaker. That could be confirmed with an audio probe or like you said, testing that left speaker wire from speaker to amp board connection.

But he did say the connections are tight and/or redone and he has some power at the speaker itself.
 
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The shielded wires at the top of this interconnect board are the audio wires. Far too often these become lose and the cause sound issues.
What this test did was pushed the R PCB output - which we know works - through the left channel. That good signal is dying somewhere in the left path.

The left PCB output - which we didn't know for sure was working - was then outputted in the right side speaker. So the PCB is pushing audio on both channels as expected.

I suppose it's possible that it's the incoming connection at the amp board itself or wiring to the speaker. That could be confirmed with an audio probe or like you said, testing that left speaker wire from speaker to amp board connection.

But he did say the connections are tight and/or redone and he has some power at the speaker itself.
 

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Okay boys, had Mike get it squared away. Back in the cab, sound flipped! Static in the speaker that was once the working one though so now we have a flipped working speaker and static out of the other so progress!
 
Still dead in the water on this one though. Even with the new MB3110A chips in the sound amp, sound flipped… I checked the pre-amp wires on the PCB and they're clean and check out and are sat well. I resat ICs 11, 12, 13, and 17, no dice. 🤷‍♂️
 
So the pcb is good and both the mb3110 are good? Have you replaced both?

Since you get audio on one channel you also have a working mb3733 on the good channel.

That would point to the faulty channel's mb3733 as a potential culprit. Take the signal of pin 1 of the good mb3733 and feed it to the signal of pin 1 on the suspect mb3733. You know you have a good input signal, if you get nothing out, I would look at replacing the suspect mb3733.

p
 
So the pcb is good and both the mb3110 are good? Have you replaced both?

Since you get audio on one channel you also have a working mb3733 on the good channel.

That would point to the faulty channel's mb3733 as a potential culprit. Take the signal of pin 1 of the good mb3733 and feed it to the signal of pin 1 on the suspect mb3733. You know you have a good input signal, if you get nothing out, I would look at replacing the suspect mb3733.

p
I replaced both, yes. Reflowed solder all across the amp. Immaculate. Sound flipped back in the cabinet. I'll have to look at mb3733.
 
I have full stereo sound now for the first time since acquiring the machine in '23. Enough said on that quality. (It's After Burner after all)

I swapped a known working Super Hang-On sound amp in there and it fired right up no problem.

I think I'll look to just fully rebuild the defective amp as my new backup.
 
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