Seeking Direct or Indirect Monitor Repair Help

FrizzleFried

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Here is the situation...

I have a D9200 I managed to screw up when I re-capped it over the weekend. I can give you explicit details of how I screwed it up if you're up to the task of either:

(A) Helping me via phone diagnose the issue... I can solder/desolder and take any measurements necessary though I will need some detailed instruction on how to do the different measurements, etc. While I am a newb, I am not completely clueless... so it SHOULDN'T be as bad as some douchebag calling Dell tech support with "issues" he's having with his first PC.

(B) Willing to do repair work on the chassis.

Now, I much prefer option (A) as I get to learn something... but I am at the point where I'd shoot out the chassis to get it repaired if it came down to it. I just want my freakin' Golden Tee Fore/Silver Strike Bowling cab back in operation (it's the favorite of all my friends).

Of course we're talking $$$ regardless of whether you repair or help me repair. Shoot me a PM and I will reply with my phone number and we can discuss specifics.

Thanks!
 
I can work on them if I have a tube. I don't have one. I can check with a friend of mine, but his is a 33" I think, and you have a 27". I don't think I can test one on the other.

I still have that D9200 chassis that I was fixing before I discovered the tube had broken under the bonded yoke. Other than a neckboard issue, it might be 100% functional, but I have no way of testing it...
 
I re-capped the D9200... in the process, I managed to NOT solder in one cap... but I am not sure that was what killed it. Unfortunately my dumb ass pulled 3 caps in the horizontal circuit (right above the horizontal size pot).... well, I pulled all three... then realized there were no replacement caps for them in the kit. No biggie... I had spare caps. The problem is that I pulled all three... and NONE of them identified what was positive and what was negative... and my dumb ass didn't follow traces etc... I just ASSumed (duh) that they would face the same direction as 99% of the other caps in that orientation on the board. Guess what... I was wrong.

I've since soldered in the 1 cap.... and removed and replaced the 3 caps I put in backwards.... and guess what... it didn't help.

When the unit fired on initially after the cap job, I got an image...but it was jumping around the screen and ever second or so it would "flash" a little and the bottom of the screen would drop out of sync for a second.... well, that went on for about 30 seconds and then I got horizontal collapse leaving a single inch wide line running vertially from top of the monitor to bottom... but it was still pulsing. When I soldered in the one cap I missed, the pulsing stopped...so I think that fixed the pulse... BUT the collapse remains... so I am guessing I screwed up something after the 3 caps in the horizontal size circuit.

So there it is... I am an idiot... and I am screwed... can anyone help? I can get specific cap numbers from the chassis if it would help... I am pretty sure the "loose" cap was C905.... the other three were like C110, C116, C117 (or thereabouts)...

EDIT: BTW - I'd much rather stick the phone on "speaker phone" and have someone walk me through testing the possible faulty components, etc... I wanna learn... but the bottom line is that I'd rather have the monitor up and running than anything else so I'd do whatever is necessary...
 
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Does the pcb not have silk screening which indicated the polarity of the caps? Have you verified you have correctly installed them now?
 
Does the pcb not have silk screening which indicated the polarity of the caps? Have you verified you have correctly installed them now?

The chassis does... though these three do not (strangely)... and yes, I replaced them with new caps and put them in properly... too late though as I've obviously screwed something up down the line.

How I didn't catch the fact that all three "neg" leads should have been soldered to the one common trace, I don't know... call it a mix of beer and stupidity... with a very large lean toward stupidity.
 
Recheck your work, you probably reversed the polarity of one of the electrolytic capacitors. You may have to test the capacitors also, one may have internally shorted. Worst case you may have blown a transistors. I doubt the tube is bad but the best thing to do if you don't want to check and recheck is just post a WTB for a new PCB or get one off ebay. For future reference, the best thing to have on a work bench is a variac, this way you can slowly bring up a piece and then catch any errors before the voltage peaks. You can also post photos of the chassis now and see if any new eyes can catch something wrong.
 
How I didn't catch the fact that all three "neg" leads should have been soldered to the one common trace, I don't know... call it a mix of beer and stupidity... with a very large lean toward stupidity.

I was always under the impression that installing caps incorrectly would damage the cap, and not the board itself?

I would check the downstream and upstream components like transistors, resistors and diodes. You might also consider placing the caps you took out back in, in case your caps are just bad (I'm a novice at best but have found issues on this manor).

I never snip old caps off for this reason.

One key thing to remember is if you don't have a reference diagram, chassis or picture always remove and replace caps one by one.
 
I was always under the impression that installing caps incorrectly would damage the cap, and not the board itself?

I would check the downstream and upstream components like transistors, resistors and diodes. You might also consider placing the caps you took out back in, in case your caps are just bad (I'm a novice at best but have found issues on this manor).

I never snip old caps off for this reason.

One key thing to remember is if you don't have a reference diagram, chassis or picture always remove and replace caps one by one.


Per your suggestion I contacted Wells Gardner. Here is their reply:

No we stopped servicing those units due the fact we can no longer get
any of the major components. But you can usually fix that problem by
replacing these following parts. Start with Q418,Q413,Q414 along with
D424 and resistors R464 and R854.

Now, I have no problem REPLACING all these parts... but I have no idea how to "size" resistors (yea, something to do with the bands)... nor do I have and idea how to properly size transistors (Is a Q a transistor or a diode?) ... sometimes it sucks to only have enough knowledge to get one in trouble.

Now, if someone could be so kind as to hook me up with the name/sizes of the parts I need above, I'd buy the whole damn shebang and replace them all in a shotgun approach to fixing this bastage.
 
Do you have a manual or schematics? The schematics will list the parts, and the manual should also have a parts list.
 
Per your suggestion I contacted Wells Gardner. Here is their reply:



Now, I have no problem REPLACING all these parts... but I have no idea how to "size" resistors (yea, something to do with the bands)... nor do I have and idea how to properly size transistors (Is a Q a transistor or a diode?) ... sometimes it sucks to only have enough knowledge to get one in trouble.

Now, if someone could be so kind as to hook me up with the name/sizes of the parts I need above, I'd buy the whole damn shebang and replace them all in a shotgun approach to fixing this bastage.

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Well shoot, that right there looks like some pretty indirect help to me. Let me know once you get this fixed so I can pm you my paypal addy. :D

Good call... the schematics have them... time to visit mouser I think,.

you can also google resistor color something or another and find this site
 
The chassis does... though these three do not (strangely)... and yes, I replaced them with new caps and put them in properly... too late though as I've obviously screwed something up down the line.

Were these three caps, that had no silk screened +/- on the pcb, nonpolar caps? Did they have "NP" on them for non polar? If so, they charge both ways in circuit, there is no + or -.

Did you replace the NP caps with polar (+/-) caps? If so, thats a problem. You can replace polar caps with bipolar caps (in a pinch), but not bipolar caps with polar caps.
 
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