Seeburg Q100 not finding disc

Syco54645

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Finally talked my dad out of his Seeburg Q100 juke. He has been holding onto it for years and trying to find someone to repair it. All of his repair techs have talked big but failed to show up to even look at it.
Anyway it is having issues where the carriage (believe that is what it is called) runs back and forth but never actually finds the disc. Does anyone know what this could be? He has the service manual but I am trying to be ready with things to try once I take delivery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would love to have this juke working again.

Thanks

-Syco54645
 
I don't think a Q100 has a "PC board"...but anywho. Before you start taking too much apart and making many adjustments many problems are actually caused by a build up of old grease, often a good cleaning and the use of the CORRECT oil in the CORRECT places will solve many issues.

The following is from the late great Tony Miller's page for your issue:
http://www.west.net/~jay/fmillera/fmillera/index.htm


Ron Rich can be found on the yahoo groups and phonoland, he is an awesome guy and can help you fix your problem, consider buying one of his guides first so you know the terms

The following is the beginning of the instructions from Tony's page:




Symptom 3: Scans twice, plays nothing
The classic 'scans twice, plays nothing' problem can be caused by the Tormat Write-In, Read-Out, or Trip circuits. We must eliminate two of the three possibilities, to determine which circuit has the problem. First, check the Write-In voltage (usually labeled 'Write-In Source' on the control center or selection receiver test terminal strip). For the digital machines (black/gray or red boxes), the voltage measured at this point will be about +125 VDC. For the solid-state machines, this voltage will be +395 VDC or +150 VDC depending upon model and number of selections. For the tube-type machines, this voltage will be -300 VDC. The Techie Stuff section of this website talks about how the Tormat works, so you should check it out before proceeding. If you measure significantly less than the correct voltage, check the Write/Read supplies in the control center or selection receiver. Given the symptom, it is probably reasonable to assume that the other supplies are functioning properly, but it doesn't hurt to check them, too. There should be test terminals for these supplies on the same terminal strip. Note that the machines using the TCC1 (LPC1 and LPC480) use a pair of test plugs instead of a simple terminal strip. Refer to that machine's schematics for details.

Disconnect the RCA plug sense loop connector from control center or selection receiver. Connect the negative side of a C or D cell battery to the center pin of the plug, while grounding the positive side of the battery to set all toroids to the selected state. (Note that if you use this procedure on a tube-type jukebox, you must reverse the battery connections.) Plug the sense loop connector back in and manually scan the mechanism. It should now trip at each record, transfer, and play it. Upon reject, the mechanism will move to the next record, and repeat the cycle. If this does not occur, the problem is in the Read-Out or Trip Circuits. If operation is normal, the problem is in the Write-In circuits, to be covered later.

Which is it: Read-out or Trip?
If the problem is in Read-Out or Trip, we must continue to eliminate one or the other. First, verify that the Read-Out timing is correct. Turn the machine off and disconnect the mechanism plug from the control center or selection receiver. Move the carriage to one end of the magazine, remove the records at that end and also remove the mechanism carriage cover. Set your ohmmeter for continuity and connect it between L1100 and ground. This is the inductor that is mounted to the Detent Timing switch next to the motor. Connect the Ohmmeter lead to the side of the inductor with the yellow wire and any decent ground should do. Slowly rotate either the turntable or the motor coupling a small amount and note which way the carriage moves. Now check the Contact Block Actuator slide or reversing switch (depending on jukebox model) to make sure that it is in the correct position for the direction of carriage travel you have chosen. Note that some models (most notably, LPC1, LPC480, PFEAU1, and all of the Home Stereo Consoles (APx, HSCx, and 600x)) only perform Read-Out while traveling in one direction. For those models, make sure you are moving the carriage in the Read-Out direction. Slowly move the carriage until you get continuity, then stop. Now if you sight down between the record separators, you should see the Transfer Arm Head perfectly lined up with (centered on) the magazine record separator. If so, the timing is correct for this direction of travel. If not, fix it. There are several inter-dependent mechanism adjustments which affect this timing. They include: Magazine - Horizontal Position, Transfer Arm 1, Tormat Memory Unit Position, Read-Out Contact Block 1, 3, and Detent Switch. Any one not correct will make this timing incorrect. Perform this check at each end of the magazine and in each direction for those machines doing Read-Out in both directions.
 
oh, another thing, make sure before you turn it on you recap the amp and the selector. I didn't listen to this advice and only did the amp and ended up needing a $300. transformer!
 
Suggest jumping over to the jukebox forum at www.phonoland.com and talking to Ron Rich, the resident Seeburg expert who took over from the late Tony Miller. Ron has indeed written several excellent Seeburg repair books which I strongly advise you to purchase.
 
oh, another thing, make sure before you turn it on you recap the amp and the selector. I didn't listen to this advice and only did the amp and ended up needing a $300. transformer!

I have read some of the info that you quoted from Tony's page.
If I am reading your post right I should just take delivery of this juke and replace all of the caps on the amp and selector. My dad said that the last time he had it on it did power up but just kept scanning. He said it has not been on since then and I gave him strict instructions to not turn it on. Do they sell the caps in kit form or do I need to check what they are and order each individually. I would gladly pay a few $$ more for a kit as piecing it together could be a hassle.

Suggest jumping over to the jukebox forum at www.phonoland.com and talking to Ron Rich, the resident Seeburg expert who took over from the late Tony Miller. Ron has indeed written several excellent Seeburg repair books which I strongly advise you to purchase.
Thanks, I will certainly sign up there and seek out Ron. When you say books are they more of a repair manual for trouble shooting (written like Tony's page) or does it read more like a book. I would rather it be a repair manual. I see no reason that I wouldn't purchase these.

In other news I have purchased around forty or so 45s in preparation for this. I couldn't believe what the local goodwill had. My favourite finds so far are "Go All The Way" by The Raspberries and "The Pied Piper" by Crispian St. Peters. There were tons more of good finds. Really was impressed with what I have found so far.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, very much appreciate it. Can't wait to get this working in the game garage so that I can listen to some music when playing my pins and arcade.
 
Vern and Jason Tisdale sell jukebox capkits much the same as Bob Roberts does with monitor capkits.

http://www.verntisdale.com/Seeburgpage.htm

There will be a seperate capkit for the "SHFA-x" amplifier and a seperate capkit for the "TSU-x" Tormat Selector Unit.

These kits cost more than a video arcade game monitor capkit would cost because of the high voltage capacitors included in them.
 
Yes, I would strongly recommend re-capping prior to turning on, especially if it still has any paper caps. This probably won't fix your current problem but it could prevent damage and help avoid a fire.
 
Thanks for all the great information. Really appreciate it. Going to research for till I actually get the juke. Probably will order the cap kits so that I have them for as soon as I get it.
 
Once you take a few plugs out you can remove the back door containing the amp and the selector in less than 5 minutes and take it with you to start the work. Makes it lighter for transporting too.

If you want to leave the door you can remove both components pretty quickly as well.
 
Speaking of the transporting would it be on to lay out down on its back? My dad seems to think it will be fine but I am concerned that it won't be safe. Any thoughts?
 
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