SeaWolf freezing after warming up

dirving

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Evening guys,

My SeaWolf has started exhibiting a problem where, when started from a cold state, will run fine for 20 to 30 minutes at which point it freezes up (doesn't reset, the screen just freezes with whatever is on there at that particular moment). I've definitely never worked on anything this old but I know the board set is used throughout various midway games. Anyone have any thoughts on where to start?
 
this probably isn't it if it does this consistently, but whenever in doubt, start with socketed chips. you can try pressing down on them first to reseat them; if they make a creak sound, that's good, it means they weren't making optimal contact with the socket.

try again.

if the power supply board has an array of old looking grey caps, then the voltages are probably out of spec. I'm not 100% certain, but this may be the same power supply that Space Invaders uses. there's intelligence out there for what all the test points are and what knobs adjust which voltage. I think at elektronforge? I'll try digging it up.

then there's the edge connector harness. since I've seen this enough times, I'm guessing it's a strong point of failure, the pins inside are U-shaped and grab around the edge connector of the board. I've tried squeezing these back together to no avail in the past. you can try wiggling this harness around and see if it forces a lockup too though. I have yet to source a replacement for it, which would be excellent if I could.

hopefully someone else chimes in. blinddog is the 8080 expert here, maybe some others.
 
That vintage of gameboard was plagued with crappy IC sockets.

Also, the power supply board is now 40 years old and needs to be recapped and check the solder on the connectors.
 
That vintage of gameboard was plagued with crappy IC sockets.

Also, the power supply board is now 40 years old and needs to be recapped and check the solder on the connectors.

key point of emphasis. those caps are probably rotten. :)

I was going to expand on the socket thing, but I figure try the reseat first before getting too deep into it. maybe OP gets lucky.
 
What Ken said.

Definitely start with the caps and sockets. Also, check your 5V, and you may find that it's off, and adjusting it might help.

Also, I repair Sea Wolf boards, if you want to have them overhauled. One of my favorite games. PM if interested.
 
power supply rebuild is common and also the wire harness connectors.

since those connectors are NLA you need to use edge connectors with solder eyelets of the proper pin count and solder/shrink wrap them or if you can find the crimp pin connectors are much easier to use but spendy.

i had my seawolf doing that years ago and it was a combination connectors and p/s. i have the rebuild kit for that old p/s with all axial caps, pots, transistors, etc. if you need but check voltages first.

BTW: i know someone will say this so let me add a little more detail mecha ;) when you use an edge connector i always solder both top and bottom pins together after looping the wire through them so you make contact with each side of the pcb with each pin.
 
Like others said the sockets and connector is a good place to start. The connector I use for the mainboard is an EDAC 306-018-500-102. It's the solder eyelet type but it's single row so you don't have to jumper to the other side. The original part hasn't been made in a long time so this isn't an exact replacment and you could be off the contacts if you use this connector as is. To help with positioning I also use a polarizing in-contact key. The one that the datasheet specifies didn't work for me so I believe I used EDAC 345-240-328. I almost positive it was that one I didn't seem to write it down. I still check it ever time i hook it up to make sure i'm not shorting contacts but I've never had that problem it seems to work well
 

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